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Frankenstein Level 7 Turbos

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foxsdesignz

15+ Year Contributor
101
0
Jul 24, 2007
defuniak Springs, Florida
i have been looking for a turbo for my AWD, i have had no luck with the 14b, the little thing cant keep up with my right foot,LOL:D and a friend kept talking about a Frankenstein Turbo. i done a little reading on them and thay look ok, here is the link to the turbo im looking at getting, any ideas if it worth it, bad ideal or what, future plans of a gt35r, and maybe meth, but right now i have little to work with,,,
Frankenstein Level 7 Turbos Only


it a frankenstien level 7, it a Mitsubishi TD06H Turbine Wheel w/10 Degree Clip, 8CM Turbine Housing. 25G Compressor Wheel.
 
That's a big turbo.

I've never met anyone actually using the 25G compressor. You'll probably spool it around 5500 and then quickly break something. If there's a weak link along the path to putting the power to the pavement, a 25G will find it for you. It's rated at ~850cfm @ 1bar, so it's a little bigger than a 35R, most say it's comparable to a T67 / 37R. But 850cfm is what Mitsu says, and they generally underrate their compressor wheels slightly. The exhaust side clipping will help balance the huge compressor, but you're gonna have plenty of lag with that monster.
 
see that what i dont want, i love how responsive the 14b was, but it wasnt enough, and the last thing i want is alot of lag, any turbo ideals that are really good with a 2.3 stroker kit,,,,,
 
well the more the better, but i would like to see mid and high 600. i was thinking on just sending my motor to FFWD and let them rip me and new one, LOL jk, i dont want to spend 6-8grand on there 2.3longblocks, but i work all the time, and it would make it so easy if i have it done, and done right the first time,,,
 
You want 14b spool time 600 hp with no lag?

You have to give to take.

If you want 600hp

You will need something that wont spool into the mid 4k range at least.

HX40 will be your best bet for that range and best spool time.
 
yeah,, well on my FWD, my 14b, would start at about 2g, but i had some trouble and soon started to hear a grinding sound when i would turn the car off, found the nut on the compressor side had back out found it way into the compressor wheel,, LOL. took the turbo off and sold it and have a 90 eclipse AWD. i been shopping for a turbo and motor set up for about 2 months now,, but im still looking for the right combo to price to power setup i want,,
 
what mods do you have so far? Getting to 600 takes a lot of work! Are you up to date on all of your maintenance? Anything over 400whp will seek out and expose each and every over looked aspect of your build.

When you're serious about getting ready or just have more questions, feel free to let me know. I'm always happy to help.

Marti
VIP
 
right now i have the motor pulled, it was all stock when i got the car,, im slowly starting back working on the car, i have no mods done to it right now,, still looking for either a longblock from FFWD, slowboy or AMS, or what turbo ,fuel system or drivetrain,, etc, first is money. looking at what im going to spend on my addiction,,,,LOL
 
You don't have your mods listed, what did you do to max out your 14b? Just because it died does not mean it was at the end of it's ability to make power, just figured I'd check : D

Is it a street car? I think you'll have a lot more fun with an EVO III making 400hp level with a 2.0 or a 2.3. Even if you maxed out the 14b, you were only making 300hp at the wheels, tops. An extra 150hp is a big deal. There seems to be a magical barrier between 400 and 600hp when really expensive things start breaking and you spend more time fixing your car than driving it.

Sorry if it seems like I'm talking down to you and you're used to high hp cars, but you don't have any mods listed and all I know is that all you've known is 14b's.
 
An EVO III turbo is definately a step up from the 14B. You will notice more power at the same boost levels but boost will not hit at 2300 RPM either. I build 13-14 PSI right around 3300 RPM and it drops below 12 PSI between 6-7000 RPM. Its a good turbo but you have to push it hard to get any real results.
 
I am on a 3582R HTA coupled to a 2.3 L. I can tell you, there is no combination that is still streetable that TOUCHES the responsiveness and torque that this turbo delivers. I get + manifold pressure in the 2k range, and full boost (21 psi) by 4300 (both data points in 3rd gear)
 
That is not quite true. As already mentioned, hx40pro is probably the fastest spooling turbo for the goal. In the small bep housing. Spools as fast as a gt30r/fp3052. Here's the dyno comparison between the two on a stroker setup: Hx40 pro results. This is NOT with the optional billet formed compressor (HTA). Identical power curve to the gt3076r. Just WAY more power! 650whp is what this guy wants and this is a 653whp dynograph. The hx40pro BEATS the hta gt35r in streetability/spoolspeed and if you got a billet wheel then the hta 35r could not TOUCH the hx40. . . Oh, the core is rebuildable and tough as nails. No garrett is the best chra bull ;) . This 650whp result is with the small .55ar bep housing. The large housing slows spool speed about 10%. And gains ALOT more flow up top. There would be no issue with the hx40pro with the billet wheel seeing 40psi by 3800ish rpms in the large bep housing, stroker cams, and a stroker motor and produce a 69lb/min log. A holset t4 twinscroll turbine housing (which would cost the same as the .70 a/r bep housing) would save another 3-400rpms and flow more.

I agree that the frank turbos are very 'old tech'. The lag of a clipped td06h turbine wheel in an 8cm2 turbine housing is going to be an issue even with a stroker. 850cfm is approximately 60lb/min. And that is an **expensive** price tag for what you get. Speeking of expense How much is an HTA ball bearing garrett? Vs. a BW or billet Holset turbo. The difference in cost would buy a divided runner t4 manifold to match that hx40 turbine housing, and you're looking at the results I mentioned in the end of the last paragraph for the same price as just the garrett/fp turbo, if you bought new.

The borg-warner s362 and s366 are GREAT choices. More affordable and spool faster than all the turbos mentioned except for the hx40pro. But does flow a little more than the hx40pro. Hx40pro: 69lb/min. S362: 73lb/min.
 
Monster, what was your take of the 60-1 you had?

A good buddy of mine is running a PTE 6031E (60-1 compressor with a T31 [Stage 3] turbine) on his built 6-bolt. The Mitsu housing was far too restrictive, only allowing 47-48 lb/min at 28psi. He switched to a T3 manifold and a .82a/r 4-bolt turbine housing, and the car REALLY came to life on top. He's now running 32psi, seeing 55lb/min, and the car pulls like it has a second powerband from 5500-8000rpms. I'm quite impressed for a turbo with such a small turbine!
 
I had the bep bolt mitsu housing with the t31 wheel and the 60-1 e-cover compressor. TERRIBLE turbo for the price compaired to what was out there even back then. I just didn't realize it until now. At least it didn't surge. It reached full boost at 4300rpms and I finally broke 50lb/min after going OVER 30 psi. As a reprieve, I was still using the stock-like evo3 manifold and stock intake manifold on fp2x cams. Yet, for all that lag I would like to have had more topend :) .

I could have gone with your friends route, but I got a holset setup that nearly matches what I was already achieving for the same price as those changes. I sold the turbo on ebay and that paid for it all. So now I have nearly the same potential as the most I could achieve with that turbo and have faster spool and the option to go to a bigger holset that actually CAN achieve the potential of a 60-1 compressor for $100.

I think the t31 turbine wheel flows poorly for it's size. And I think the exhaust manifold is a key restriction for setups over 400whp. No matter how many have gone 10s-9s with it. The stock cams have seen over 550whp, too. But you don't see too many choosing that route. Many of theise guys running the bolton housings run the stock o2 housing also, which is a terrible bottle neck early in the exhaust. I feel that when you upgrade turbine housings, you're forced to upgrade the adjoining manifold and o2 housing, and this is from where most of the flow comes. It wasn't from just upgrading to the laggier tubine housing.

But, one good turbine wheel can make up for alot of bad stock parts.
 
My impression of the 6031E with a Mitsu bolt-on housing was similar to your experience....too much compressor ability, not enough turbine flow. It wasn't until I felt the car with the .82 turbine housing that I changed my mind.

I'm wondering how that turbo would respond to a .63 a/r turbine housing and a Stage 5 turbine.
 
Now, I LIKE the stage5 (t350) turbine wheel! It is much better matched to the 60-1 according to the 10% rule. I'd go so far as to say that the .48 a/r garrett turbine housing with a good t3 turbular manifold and tubular o2 housing would be all the flow you need with a t350 wheel to max out a 60-1. Good spool speed from the larger turbine inducer (more torque on the shaft) not just the turbine housing, and the turbine flows SO much more. It takes a turbine wheel AND turbine housing to determine flow. The turbine housing tweeks spool and flow. It doesn't determine the range of flow, i.e. td06h 7cm^2 fpred vs. td05h 7cm^2 evo3 16g.
 
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