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FP 68HTA dyno results

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I hope you figure out why you're boost is dropping off. That seams to be why you're not making the power you think it could. A 16g falls off like that in boost. It has the same hotside.

Related to my question above - how much would BEP housing help this thing? Its already an $800 dollar turbo, having to add an aftermarket BEP housing makes it that much more expensive. NOT knocking it mind you, those are great numbers, I'm just trying to get the most bang for my limited buck.
 
Awesome numbers, can u post a graph.

Why didn't you run more boost?

Are you going to update your evotune.com page or whatever that site is called with the evo ecu info on it, I want to try that swap out but u haven't updated there since dec. last year.

Good power made so far keep up the good work
 
Are you going to update your evotune.com page or whatever that site is called with the evo ecu info on it, I want to try that swap out but u haven't updated there since dec. last year.

That is not my page, that is somebody elses. It may be documented there as well, which is good. I explained how I did it on evom but I have been banned for reasons that are unknown to me, so I am hesitant to spend the time posting any useful information on forums anymore. I spend a lot of my time answering questions and now all my posts are deleted.
 
^I am very sorry to hear I do appreciate the help, so please know your efforts are going unwasted.

I have heard the mods on evom are nazi's to put it mildly, They are probably looking down their noses at you using their highly awesome evo ECU in a lowly shit box DSM.

Anywho, I am hopefully going to be trying this into a 1g AT DSM.

Back OT, do you plan on turning up the boost?
 
What are you using for an 02 pipe? I know it sounds crazy but if you throw an unported housing on there you the creep may allow you to run more boost. Which is a good thing at your level of boost. You can even port it to induce more "creep".

Nice numbers... Are you really wanting to make much more power on those cast top line pistons anyway? I'd be nervous to spike it past 35ish so you could hold decent boost to redline.
 
couldn't it also be easy just to use an external gate on a recirc or dump tube style o2 housing to maintain the boost pressures. However thats about 400-500 dollars for a wastegate and o2 housing... But if you took the plunge in an earlier turbo build and had these parts on the shelf you might as well put them to use.
 
Guys are expecting too much from the 68HTA. Its capable of an extra +30-35 h.p. over an EVO3 16g. Your typical 16g owner might flatline at 390-400 w.h.p., so that 420 w.h.p. is right inline with what I'd expect.

unless my numbers are wrong the difference would be closer to 50hp, Bolt on 11% more airflow, yes please. That's all dependant on the pressure ratio it operates in. But judging from my other HTA turbo, yeah it should be a knock out. AND IT BOLTS ON wooooo!
 
unless my numbers are wrong the difference would be closer to 50hp, Bolt on 11% more airflow, yes please. That's all dependant on the pressure ratio it operates in. But judging from my other HTA turbo, yeah it should be a knock out. AND IT BOLTS ON wooooo!

Lots of things bolt-on, just remember you are paying a pretty premium for that ever so slight difference in power.

Lucas has shown it is good for about .3 in the 1/4 however the current version of his build is far more complete/stout than the previous. Who knows what he could run with the regular Evo3 on the current setup.

It is what it is. I suppose ya gotta pay to play. My personal opinion however is that there is no point in purchasing this turbo unless you want it to look bone stock. There are many other options even in mitsuhousings that will net equal if not better results for much less, bolt-on as well.
 
Lots of things bolt-on, just remember you are paying a pretty premium for that ever so slight difference in power.

Lucas has shown it is good for about .3 in the 1/4 however the current version of his build is far more complete/stout than the previous. Who knows what he could run with the regular Evo3 on the current setup.

It is what it is. I suppose ya gotta pay to play. My personal opinion however is that there is no point in purchasing this turbo unless you want it to look bone stock. There are many other options even in mitsuhousings that will net equal if not better results for much less, bolt-on as well.

Wasn't one of his mods his wife who weights half what he does or something like that?
 
Wasn't one of his mods his wife who weights half what he does or something like that?

I'm pretty sure he has personally driven it that fast. I believe that was on a single occasion she drove instead of him.
 
There are many other options even in mitsuhousings that will net equal if not better results for much less, bolt-on as well.

Name one other option out there that spools like a small 16g and flows like a 50 trim for less than the HTA68 costs (including an internal gate) and I'll buy it today. "Better" results doesn't just mean more power to alot of us.
 
Only half the 68hta flows like a decent 50-trim. It spools so fast because the turbine is so small.

The way I see this:
1) Most of us getting 50-trim sized turbos want more than 400-450whp when cranking the boost past 25psi: pushing the turbo to where you need something more than 93octane with a good air/air charge cooler. I know he seams to be having boost control issues. But internal gates and clammy hotsides do that. It's rather silly to look for 47ish lb/min flow and expect to control it with an internal gate. Yes it's possible; but typically not practical in the long run.
2) The rest of us want to see 400whp with 91-93octane; achievable at 20-23psi, since the 50-trim/20g/etc flows better on the other end.

The 68hta fits in neither case. It is apparently a special turbo meant for special circumstances, as mentioned. It fits PERFECTLY in the special circumstance.
 
Lots of things bolt-on, just remember you are paying a pretty premium for that ever so slight difference in power.

Lucas has shown it is good for about .3 in the 1/4 however the current version of his build is far more complete/stout than the previous. Who knows what he could run with the regular Evo3 on the current setup.

It is what it is. I suppose ya gotta pay to play. My personal opinion however is that there is no point in purchasing this turbo unless you want it to look bone stock. There are many other options even in mitsuhousings that will net equal if not better results for much less, bolt-on as well.

I am BIG into sleepers, so for me. It doesn't get much better than a 47lb/min compressor in a stock housing. Hell my 2g setup is 57lb/min costs 6 times more and only gives 10 more pounds of flow. So imho, this is a knock out deal for a turbo. No fabbing, no sillyness. Bolts on. hell, the exhaust on my car to match the stuff I have on the 2g cost more than this turbo LOL. And it looks stock, good for the DD when I have to pass smog. AND it would haul ass. Look under the hood of my 2g and it says fast. my 1g would be rad with this turbo, look under the hood and it would say slow LOL. I would also hide shit like nitrous nozzles under the manifold runners so no one sees it. LOL. I do want to bolt on a holeset and see how it goes. But the smog nazi's might see it.

Only half the 68hta flows like a decent 50-trim. It spools so fast because the turbine is so small.

The way I see this:
1) Most of us getting 50-trim sized turbos want more than 400-450whp

do doubt, but you have to admit. its a pretty sick turbo for the price. I got my 3076hta for the best of MOST worlds, total cost was around something silly like 3500 for something that won't creep, spools fast and has great manners. But I also paid out the @$$ for it LOL. Not sayin its the end all be all. But for the e85 kiddies / pump 20 psi guys I think it will do alright for those that are not expecting amazing boost control and no creep. But for a stock looking go fast bolt on I think it is a pretty good setup for the dd cars that need to sneek past the smog nazi. It gave me wood for a turbo that small to throw down 420 hp. Come on man, admit it, you got wood too. :) I guess I have thrown togather so many differnent combos I was excited about something that just fits. No special adapters, no special downpipe, I like building things more than most. I just dig the idea that it just fits. :). I did forget the boost was at 27-23 psi. I get what your sayin. if your not concerned about packaging then a HX35 would be a lot better, save for maybe spool? I would get the hta 68, and get a custom license plate "20lbs" as in 20 lbs of shit in a 5 lb bag LOL
 
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Lots of things bolt-on, just remember you are paying a pretty premium for that ever so slight difference in power.

Lucas has shown it is good for about .3 in the 1/4 however the current version of his build is far more complete/stout than the previous. Who knows what he could run with the regular Evo3 on the current setup.

It is what it is. I suppose ya gotta pay to play. My personal opinion however is that there is no point in purchasing this turbo unless you want it to look bone stock. There are many other options even in mitsuhousings that will net equal if not better results for much less, bolt-on as well.


Agreed. As always.


I will also not mention how much shit he's been talking for the past year on everything holset(or anything that isn't an HTA68). But, for that much talk, it doesn't look like you backed any of it up. I admit, that makes me smile. Big time.
 
Some of you might want to look into TD05 20gs..

Sleeper, power, cheaper. As I mentioned before. This turbo is great if you are trying to trick a fellow DSMer who will also be weary that you never know the difference between a 14b and a sleeper 18g or now even an HTA68. However I ran a TDo4 V-Trim back in the day which a majority of people assumed it was stock. People aren't very familiar with these cars. I also passed smog with it just cause it had a mitsu logo on the housing. I still feel the best bang for the buck OEM sleeper is the Bastard 18g and the tdo5 20g. The HAT68 is an awesome turbo, I personally just don't see the benefit of it.

I'd save my $600 and keep a evo3 16g or get lucky with a bastard 18g and 20g which flow the same/more I believe (don't quote me on that) and have money to put else where, like suspension, cams, etc etc.

I am still sold that the ULTIMATE OEM sleeper is a 6bolt Galant block with either an Evo3 or a 2g head and an Evo 3 intake and exhaust manifold as well as hotside and O2 housing on a sleeper 18g/bastard 20g. (18g/20g in evo3 16g frame). But there I go fantasizing and going way off topic LOL.

I've yet to see anyone run such a setup and one day I might test this theory out
 
unless my numbers are wrong the difference would be closer to 50hp, Bolt on 11% more airflow, yes please. That's all dependant on the pressure ratio it operates in. But judging from my other HTA turbo, yeah it should be a knock out. AND IT BOLTS ON wooooo!

FP stated the 47 lb/min is "choke" flow on the 68HTA, when I talked to them on the phone. I talked to Robert directly about it in detail. The EVOIII 16g is around 43.7 lb/min on the map, and on my logger as well at standard atmospheric temps. That is about +35 h.p. On my STi the 68HTA spools well and has the same big big midrange the EVOIII has on my GSX. Its a fun turbo with a touch more lag and a big midrange. I see no real downsides to running one since I can deal with the minimal extra lag and the extra backpressure. An extra +35 h.p. over an EVOIII 16g isn't going to strain the TD05H turbine wheel or 7cm housing.

Obviously, you will be needing E85 or high octane racing gas to exploit it, so it isn't a pump gas king type turbo. On the other hand, it is very "EVOIII 16g" like in its spool, taking very little to spin it up.
 
After reading through the entire thread thus far, my only question is can I purchase this turbo with a T3 housing?
 
If you can't get any more boost than that, make up a better WGA. My 16G only held 22psi on the stock WGA, so I rigged up a Holset WGA (runs about 20psi with no boost controller), and now it holds at least 25.

When I was running an Evo 8 ECU and ECU controlled boost with the Holset WGA I could hold 28-29+ at the lowest point which was 6300 rpms.
 
I have a spare new holset actuator and I have a 14b I want to push for all it's worth. So that actuator ran you at 20psi with no boost controller? That's perfect. I have an ebay 16g 7cm^2 housing. It needs a straight actuator rod, not the typical curved 14b/16g actuator rod. And the holset actuator rod is straight and adjustable :)
 
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