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2G Forced Four trans tuning

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InvisibleBlade

Probationary Member
9
5
Aug 2, 2010
La Crosse, Wisconsin
Hey all, I'm looking for some assistance for my TCU tune.

My issue is the car hits the limiter a multiple times on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.
Mods: 4GCS 2.4L, Wiseco pistons, Eagle rods, GSC Stage 2 beehive springs, BorgWarner 7670 divided T3, stock trans with upgraded cooler, Forced Four 100.1 shift box and shift kit.

*I have the Kiggly 5-Friction Front Clutch Pack, but it hasn't been installed yet.
I think I listed all the mods you'd need to know for this, but let me know if you need any other info and I can update this, otherwise I have a full list in my profile. :)

Any issues with this?
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I've seen others have this set at 4500. Do I need to adjust it?
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My previous tuner had to keep setting the shift point earlier and earlier, but I'm still having the issue. I believe my tuner said redline should be around 7400? Based on my mods, could this be a bit higher? (Because of my setup, I'm not trying to hit 8k or anything, but wondering if it can safely go up a bit.)
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Shawn from Forced Four said for a car making 400+hp, the "Lockup TPS Max" should not be over 40%, as it will cause slipping. Mine was at 100%, but should I be concerned that that value causes the box to be yellow?
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I saw in another thread that somebody said the lines shouldn't cross?
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Anyone have any tips?

Missed this thread earlier and was disappointed to see that no one responded. We have a FF 150 on our 2.4L and are learning to tune it too. We would chime in, but our application is a tandem install with mostly stock equipment for a touring setup and we only use manual mode.

Your fastest way to resolve this is to email Shawn @ ForcedFour and get his help. He has been helpful to us.

Our challenge was primarily high-revving shift flare. Shawn did tell us that reducing the Duty Cycle would reduce shift flare and that lowering Shift Duration will reduce shift delay.
 
I think I had the 1st 100.1 box as mine had no serial # and I had to figure out how to program my shifts on my own.
Here is what I wrote up about it. It's still in my car and works fine.
(1) ForcedFour SmartShift 100.1 review PART 1 of 2 | DSMtuners.com https://share.google/rDpM8CvkiwlElYPxC
Marty
 
Missed this thread earlier and was disappointed to see that no one responded. We have a FF 150 on our 2.4L and are learning to tune it too. We would chime in, but our application is a tandem install with mostly stock equipment for a touring setup and we only use manual mode.

Your fastest way to resolve this is to email Shawn @ ForcedFour and get his help. He has been helpful to us.

Our challenge was primarily high-revving shift flare. Shawn did tell us that reducing the Duty Cycle would reduce shift flare and that lowering Shift Duration will reduce shift delay.
No worries. I did reach out to Shawn and he did give me a couple tips, but nothing has really helped too much. And now the car will be stored for winter, so I won't be able to test out anything else till spring. I'll be pulling the trans to install my Kiggly 5 friction front clutches and having the shift kit that the previous owner installed checked.

I think I had the 1st 100.1 box as mine had no serial # and I had to figure out how to program my shifts on my own.
Here is what I wrote up about it. It's still in my car and works fine.
(1) ForcedFour SmartShift 100.1 review PART 1 of 2 | DSMtuners.com https://share.google/rDpM8CvkiwlElYPxC
Marty
Marty, I was hoping you'd reply as I've checked out a couple of your other threads/posts about tuning. I don't think I saw the one you posted, but I will check that out and see how it aligns to the tune in mine.
 
You don't want your lines to touch on your shift maps. You can have them very close but not overlap or touch.
 
1g's don't have a lockup so I can't help in that matter. I am gonna say 2800 for a start. You don't want it to lock up at the same time it goes into OD. So delay the lockup from that shift point would be my advice then work it from there, later or earlier. ✌️
Here are the 1g stock maps. You can tweak from there also. I used the stock Power map for my "Economy" map and my aggressive map was just that, much more aggressive. It took trial and error and sneaking up on my max shift points.
Marty

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I want to verify, but when you say the shift lines shouldn't touch, you mean just the upshifts and on both the Economy and Sport maps correct? AKA, the sport map shouldn't start out the same as the eco map?
 
Well, your downshift points shouldn't touch either, in my experiences.
Yellow and dotted yellow should never touch another color and so on. They should stay separated. The econo map will shift earlier (lower numbers for up and down shifts), the sport map will shift like you want during hard acceleration and WOT. That's how I set mine up. The computer gets "confused" sometimes when the lines touch or overlap. These have been my experiences as I built my maps.
I had an experience where my speedometer cable BROKE and the car IMMEDIATELY shifted down, down, down since its mph reading was ZERO. Thank god I wasn't on the freeway or anywhere going very fast. I was coming to a stop sign at about 20mph when that all happened and it screeched the tires going down to 1st all of a sudden. Just something I want to mention.
I will go out to my car and see if I can pull up my maps and take pictures for you as a study guide here in about a half hr. I'm doing lunch right now. 🙂
The 1st two are my Power Maps and the 2nd two are my Economy Maps. I'm sorry about the reflection on the screen and hope you can get enough out of them.👍
The shift points are very high on my Power map, be aware. You may want to tone it down for starters.

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Well, your downshift points shouldn't touch either, in my experiences.
Yellow and dotted yellow should never touch another color and so on. They should stay separated. The econo map will shift earlier (lower numbers for up and down shifts), the sport map will shift like you want during hard acceleration and WOT. That's how I set mine up. The computer gets "confused" sometimes when the lines touch or overlap. These have been my experiences as I built my maps.
I had an experience where my speedometer cable BROKE and the car IMMEDIATELY shifted down, down, down since its mph reading was ZERO. Thank god I wasn't on the freeway or anywhere going very fast. I was coming to a stop sign at about 20mph when that all happened and it screeched the tires going down to 1st all of a sudden. Just something I want to mention.
I will go out to my car and see if I can pull up my maps and take pictures for you as a study guide here in about a half hr. I'm doing lunch right now. 🙂
The 1st two are my Power Maps and the 2nd two are my Economy Maps. I'm sorry about the reflection on the screen and hope you can get enough out of them.👍
The shift points are very high on my Power map, be aware. You may want to tone it down for starters.
Awesome man, thank you. Now you've got me re-thinking of dropping the trans this winter and trying these maps first instead.
 
You won't hurt it. Lots less laborus to tinker around with the data. Best of luck. My rev limits are high but you could tone down the power map for your liking. Easier than pulling a trans!
I can get you better pictures if it were dark, so you could read it all easier. Just let me know.
 
Alright. If anything comes up, you can ask if I know anything about it.
Good luck on a new map!
Marty
 
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