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First mods??

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xavier3jr

Probationary Member
15
0
Nov 10, 2004
Anderson, South Carolina
Alright i finaly got my W2 back today and filed my tax. Im buying another dsm when i get the money 8-15 days. if i get a stock one im looking for ideas for my first mods heres what im thinking to start off. FMIC 24x12x3? evo 3 16g MBC and either hks ssq or gready type rs bov. walburo 255 with rewire kit boost and oil preasure guages. not really lookin to boost alot at first thats why i havn't included injectors, only looking to boost 15 lbs or so for the time being. now my question is do i need to go ahead and get a saf-c of dsmlink with those mods or will the factory ecu provide enuff fuel for that amount of boost?
 
Your going to need something to tune it with, and I would probably buy a wideband and a fpr. You might be able to get away with 10 - 12 psi on stock injectors, but in the long run you are going to need them. I would upgrade to at least 650s
 
I know im going to need them in the long run im just not going to have the money to dish out for them right now. just wanting to know if that setup will work without to much nock.
 
I'd go in this order instead (trust me!):
  • Avoid a 1g automatic transmission model if you can help it. They come with a weak tranny, smaller injectors, and smaller turbo than the manual transmission models. You can upgrade it, but it will require more parts and therefore more money, so keep that in mind. I'm assuming below that you don't get a 1g auto/tranny car; the list will be different if you do. If you stumble upon a good deal for an A/T 1g, don't let this get in your way, but I'd do a bit of research to find out what the impact to your wallet will be.
  • Complete maintenance. Make the motor tip-top if you can. This includes boost leak testing, replacing overdue parts (based on scheduled maintenance), etc.
  • Upper intercooler pipe (2g...not sure about 1g UICP shittyness). The 2g UICP is nasty where it sneaks by the stock air filter box (if/when you replace it, you'll see why). You only need the first half of the 2g UICP; the seconds half isn't bad at all. But if you do this and don't do the next step (aftermarket air filter), you'll have to cut the stock air filter box to make room for the upgraded UICP. Might as well get them both at once.
  • Air filter (K&N FIPK as an example)
  • Cold air intake (keep intake air temps (IATs) down when you lose the stock cold air intake box)
  • 3" turboback exhaust (with or without a catalytic converter depending on your emissions laws). After you hang out at this forum enough, you'll start to appreciate the effectiveness of a less restrictive exhaust. Do not underestimate how much it helps.
  • 1g BOV (if you buy a 2g). It's a great BOV which holds to 18psi stock and can be modified easily to hold much much more and only costs $25 on eBay. Snazzy BOVs will do nothing for performance but will suck a lot of cash out of your wallet that can go toward some serious power-adding parts.
  • Logger. If you get a 1g, this is super cheap. If you get a 2g, it's more expensive ($125+) but you need a logger at this point. Going past this point without a logger is flat-out stupid.
  • MBC/EBC. You can dial up the stock boost levels and use the logger to tell how far you can go.
  • Turbo. If you go with the Evo3 Big16g, you may run into creep problems; many have. Search on boost creep to find out more (90% of the search results will relate to this turbo). You don't have to know what this means just yet unless you buy all of the previous mods I've listed along with the turbo all in one shot (you need to hang around and read the forums for a while to know your way around your car and learn some of the tech that matters). If you have creep problems, you might want to stick parts of your stock exhaust back on to help until you can afford to fix the problem, so don't pitch the stock exhaust if you can help it.
  • Fuel pump rewire kit. The stock wiring harness uses very small wires that provide inadequate juice to the fuel pump. Rewiring the stock fuel pump will buy you a bit more boost on the stock fuel pump but will also work later when you upgrade your fuel pump.
  • Adjustable fuel pressure regulator (AFPR). The stock regulator will be overrun when you eventually upgrade your fuel pump (next step). This leads to high fuel pressure in the fuel rail and a rich condition (which robs power) as a result. Many folks upgrade the pump and regulator together, but you can do the regulator first if money is an issue. You shouldn't upgrade the pump before getting the AFPR.
  • 255lph fuel pump. The stock fuel pump can barely feed the stock injectors at 15psi boost even if it's rewired. The 255 gives you much more growing room than the 190lph alternative, so I'd recommend going with the larger pump (price is very comparable, so why not?).
  • Fuel controller. Before you can feed the motor more fuel via larger injectors, you need some way of controlling the extra fuel you're planning on delivering. The stock engine computer (ECU) is "hard-wired" for a certain injector size, so you either have to "rewire" the ECU, get something that "fools" the ECU into doing the right thing with larger injectors, or replace it with a new computer. Common examples would be DSMlink, S-AFC, ECU+, or AEM EMS. You can't move to larger injectors without something like this.
  • Larger injectors. If you plan on getting the most out of your Evo3 Big16g turbo, you need more fuel than the stock injectors can deliver. Assuming you have proper fuel control upgrades, you can do this now. S-AFC can have side-effects at 660cc/min injectors or larger. DSMlink can easily drive 1000cc/min injectors. I'd recommend getting the largest injectors your fuel controller can reliably handle. That way, you have more room for growth, power-wise. The price difference on larger injectors isn't worth strapping yourself for fuel in the future.
  • Upgraded intercooling. Now that you can crank up the boost past 15psi, you need to worry about cooling that boosted charge more effectively. Upgraded side-mount intercooler (SMIC), front-mounted intercooler (FMIC), air-water intercooler, and/or water/meth injection are common ways of doing this.
  • By now, you've spent enough time on the forums that you know what you need next. This can get you to the 400hp mark. If you're at 400hp, you know more than I do.
 
I wonder how long it took to type all that. The wiseman has spoken. Listen and learn and you'll be ok.
 
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