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First Constant grind

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Lofty

15+ Year Contributor
4,250
43
Jul 27, 2008
Waukesha, Wisconsin
Well here goes.
I recently changed my tranny fluid to syncromesh.
Now 2 weeks later, it's doing this odd thing.
if I put it in neutral, let off clutch, and try to put it in 1st, it has a constant grind, like I cant even shove it in because it feels like a gear is just spinning.
If I go into second then first it doesn't do it.
What's going on?
 
I have a problem where it will never go into reverse unless I let the clutch out halfway (while trying to go into reverse) and then it slips in. Anyone know what this is?

I also have a possibly related problem of not being able to get into first from neutral when the car is not moving (unless I first go into second or wait 3 seconds after pressing clutch down while in neutral).
 
?Linkage bushings in the cables(on either end??) have some play where the SHIFT and SELECT aren't jiving together all the time?

1st Gear Syncro getting tired where it's not slowing down that gear to enable shift?

I once in a while have to dbl clutch going in Reverse as well - it will go in, but not all the way and when I let out the clutch, the shifter pops out into Neutral.

Kinda how I got that all mastered is to start the car with shifter in N, release the clutch to spin the input shaft some, then do the shift into R. And it goes into R every time.

..trying to help... DSM
 
Linkage bushings and shifter are fine with no play (and I've done the skateboard bearing and shifter base metal bushing mods). First gear syncro is suspect.

My reverse shift goes exactly as your description. I'll try your technique thanks. Any idea what the problem is inside the tranny? I'm going to pull it to replace syncros but have no clue what to look at for the reverse problem (reverse of course has no syncro, just an idler gear which I've already replaced).
 
Any idea what the problem is inside the tranny?
I think it's just one of those doomed things that all manual trannys are known for since reverse doesn't have the syncro to align things up to allow continual engagement.

...it's just one of those 50/50 shots that you can get it into R the first time, or having to dbl clutch to get it the second time.

I've seen new cars owners having to do this same trick. Just used to it from driving tractors when I was a kid on the farm.

Good luck anywhos - DSM
 
I'd call it the latter since of the bronze content of the syncros gradually wearing down.

Course, now you watch after you bust that thing open and find too much play in that mentioned shaft..either/or with the syncros....
 
I once in a while have to dbl clutch going in Reverse as well - it will go in, but not all the way and when I let out the clutch, the shifter pops out into Neutral.

Kinda how I got that all mastered is to start the car with shifter in N, release the clutch to spin the input shaft some, then do the shift into R. And it goes into R every time.
Well I tryed this technique but it still won't go into reverse.

I also tryed your syncro test (from post 10) which I think is excellent BTW.
All my gears slow the motor down except 1st which slows it a very very tiny amount but nothing like the other gears. So 1st syncro needs replacing although I don't think that's my only problem.
 
I have the problem that sumtimes it wont go into R all the way and if i let the clutch out halfway it will go all the way in but, sumtimes if I do get it in R and my hand is off the shifter knob it sumtimes pops out of R while im trying to backup.
 
Well since my last post I've (myself) replaced 1st gear syncro and clutch fork, shimmed clutch fork pivot ball, adjusted all internal tranny shafts to proper preloads, and filed reverse idler teeth. Now all my first and reverse problems are gone and it shifts like butter.
 
How much did the parts cost?
All factory parts bought from Mitsubishiparts.com: 1st gear syncro was $16.26, clutch fork $48, 3 gear shaft preload spacers $6 each, two 36mm gear shaft nuts $5 each. To be safe I also replaced the intermediate shaft bearing $19 (usually gets destroyed getting it off although mine didn't by being extra careful), input shaft oil seal $6. Months earlier I had already replaced 2 shift forks, both axel shaft oil seals, clutch, pressure plate, TO bearing, clutch slave cyl. You can get complete or partial (eg. syncros only) tranny rebuild kits from Jacks or TRE which I recommend unless you're sure about the tranny condition (I knew as I'm the original owner and have never abused it).

Don't under estimate the work. It's a lot and you better know what you are doing (shop/factory manual is a must) as well as you need access to a bearing press. Here's some tips I learned: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...build-dsm-fwd-transmission.html#post151757065.
And here's an excellent complete rebuild article step by step with pictures: Dre.
 
haha thats why your a wiseman!
Well not really. My expertise is electrical. This was the first time I've ever had a tranny completely torn down. I did a lot of preparation by reading the factory manual and tranny overhaul articles. Also talked to the pros who repair trannys and had a guy over who did one to help. After getting ripped off by a professional shop that "overhauled it" 18 months ago and then having the exact same problem come back, I decided to do it myself to get it done right (I followed every step in the factory manual to a tee). So anyone can do it, just be well prepared.
 
I just replaced my stock clutch setup with a Fidanza 2.1 Clutch set and Fidanza flywheel. Going into first every once in a while it will catch/grind. What do you mean by shimmed the pivot ball and fork?
 
I seem to be having the same problem I have regular fluid though, I cant get in first gear without hearing a nasty gring and it wont go in im going to replace my master cylinder see if that helps me. What works for me I just start in 2nd till it rolls a little and then put it in fist goes in as smooth as butter when its rolling.
 
I seem to be having the same problem I have regular fluid though, I cant get in first gear without hearing a nasty gring and it wont go in im going to replace my master cylinder see if that helps me. What works for me I just start in 2nd till it rolls a little and then put it in fist goes in as smooth as butter when its rolling.

I was having the same problem, my master cylinder was leaking inside under the pedal. Replaced the master, now it goes into 1st but will catch/grind every once in a while.

I just ordered the slave rod extender, hopefully that solves the problem.
 
Hmm.

Well guys, I'm glad you all are still using this thread.

Yes, my problems were syncros, which eventually lead to TOTAL transmission failure.

Not trying to scare anyone or anything though. My input shaft would make noise when you would spin it, (Grinding noise in neutral).

I took the trans out, and it would clunk if I spun the input shaft in neutral.

I have NOT heard of this before, so I wish for this thread to be saved/merged with different threads so I can help others with my problem.

That syncro test told the truth, I have a new transmission, it has no problems, and the syncro test proved it worked.
 
I did the syncro test, and sure enough all other gears are fine, however when trying to go into first it just grinds.

I guess its time to order a rebuilt tre stage 2, oh boy.
 
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