Constant grinding.

[fwdturbobov1996]

About two weeks ago I noticed a constant metal on metal soudn coming from my drivers side front. Well I also noticed the car always tried to stop by itself. So I thought the caliper had failed pushing the brake pad against the rotor. The stock parts looked horrible so I bought a Wilwood big brake kit, thinkign this would get rid of any and all problems. Well guess not, went to drive around, and the grinding is still slightly there. Its beyond annoying after spending all this money. Would a wheel bearing thats on its way out be a bad thing?

Also on my brake kit, the bleeder valve is ruined. It constantly lets a minimal, but steady flow of fluid leak out, can I use any bleeder that fits it or do I need the exact one already in there.

I didnt get to drive the car around to far, I would loose pedal pressure cause of the leak and the car would shake violently, then the next couple stops it was perfectly fine, then happened again so I took it home. Ive taken this brake kit apart about 5 times now. Takes all of 20 mins to get both sides off now haha.

But main two questions are the wheel bearing making the metal on metal sound or not? Bleeder valve/screw/nipple, have to use same exact one or can I run to napa and buy one.

 

[brute]

When you did the brakes, did you bleed the system? Air in there could make you lose pressure.

The grinding noise... Is it always? Only when you turn the wheel? RPM related? Speed related? Has it gotten louder since the first time you noticed it? When the wheel bearing went out on the 89 camry I had, it made a terrible noise. I didn't know what it was either, but it sounds almost like what you're experiencing.

I suggest taking it apart and checking it all out. This is what the hub looked like compared to the new one bought at Napa. The bearing apparently seized and eventually wore down an area of the hub. This was VERY dangerous to drive on. So check it all out!!

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[fwdturbobov1996]

Ive bleed the system ALOT. Gone through a full 32 oz bottle. I know its the bleeder valve b/c it NEVER stops coming out, I can sit here right now and go watch it and it will drip out the top where its nto supposed to come out unless loosened.


First started noticing the sound about two weeks ago. I replaced my pads, and it went away for a little, well it came back very quick, and got loud again very very quick. The pads I had were so unevenly worn. So I bought a different brake system. 13" wilwood rotors, 4 piston calipers, steel braided line. Gone through a hole bottle of fluid. Now the sound is still there but very very slight.

Its rpm related, faster I go faster it gets. Im going to get a new bleeder valve tommorow and drive aroudn more and see what I can find, hopefully it cures the lost pedal pressure.

 

[brute]

Its rpm related, faster I go faster it gets.

Wait, RPM related or speed related?

 

[DanThMan1983]

first thing is first get your brake leak fixed.
raise the vehicle off the ground shake the wheel back and forth and up and down does it move around excessively?

 

[fwdturbobov1996]

I mean speed related, sorry was trying to analyze everything last night and mixed the words. Im getting ready to go try and fix the leak, but I still dont konw about teh bleeder, guess I will see.

 

[fwdturbobov1996]

Ok, fixed the leak. Took it out, went to hit the pedle, its really soft, you have to almost floor it for it to stop. If you try to hit the brakes hard at first, they want to lock up and will not brake. If the car is off and you presss the brakes you can get alot of pressure, but press just a bit harder, and it will loose some pressure. But as soon as it turns on the pedal pressure goes away like normal, and then the pressure never comes back.


The grinding is still there and its beyond annoying. With the car jacked up and the wheels still on both wheels move just as much as the other. With the wheels on and in the air, I spin the wheels and the brake pads are slightly rubbing the rotor causing a slight sound, im doubting this is the cause of my louder scrapping/grinding sound. But on the stock rotors there is that 32mm nut that holds the rotor in place. On the big brake kit, jsut the wheel being on and the caliper hold it in place. Did he give me all of the kit?


Never EVER buying used parts again.

 

[fwdturbobov1996]

Also with the car on and you press the peedle, it feels as if its letting out air first then gaining a little bit of pressure. Im going to bleed the brakes again and see if it gets rid of any air in there, but I dont see how I still have air in there after going through like 30 oz of fluid. With the car off you can slam ont he peddle and it gets really hard but if you get jst a little more pressure it goes a little soft so you can press the peddle. If it still works I think Id guess I would have a leak or a faulty brake booster or master cylinder.