First 6 bolt tear down with pix!

[Archer Fabrications]

Mods move to build thread if need be.

Well i bought a 6bolt long block complete a few weeks ago and i thought i would start a thread for the tear down. If i have any questions I'll ask them here in hopes bogus has insight, but i have a pdf manual also so everything should be good for me. My current motor, is still running strong and will be ran next season it was built by JPI racing in seattle washington. Jack stafford is a great engine builder.
I would use him again except i am all the way across the country in ontario canada. So with that said, This is a spare for my own learning experience of the 4g63 inside and out.

My over all plans for this spare motor. To hold 1000hp on a FP3794HTA
Magnus billet aluminum rods 23mm wrist pin
Ross pistons
And all L19 hardware where needed.
Magnus main girdle and ACL tri- metals.


Now since this is a spare i am I'm in no rush to have this completed. My only deadline is to have it finished by the time my JPI motor can't hold any longer (.035 tolerance) the origional goal was only 500hp max so I'm curious to see how she will hold 700hp and so is jack

In the mean time after disassembling i will be sending this spare off to magnus for cleaning, and I'll send it back for machining when I'm ready. The main immediate reason for the spare is to have a real world jig for making exhaust manifolds. Top mount t4 and bottom mount t3 or maybe forward facing.

Here are some pix!

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She has 80k miles and only a blown head gasket so far, plugs 1&2 were soaked in oil. But no detonation to speak of on the plugs, we'll find out what the pistons say to that. I have no idea why the HG was blown in the first place. this is my first time tearing down any motor.

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Stock cams look a bit scratched on this intake journal.

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Definately noticed some caked chunky oil in the pickup, in the head and in the pan. Most likely carbon chunks

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And this is where I'm at now. Haven't taken off the head yet or checked bearings cause i have limited time with having my 2 week old daughter to take care of

I'll be back with bearing pictures and piston shots when inget there, so far I'm only a half hour into disassembily and things are going well,
Just got the 10mm 6point alan socket bit for the oem head studs can't wait! Love Tearing into my favorite motor

I also plan to do the oil port mod and removing the blocks flashings.

 

[BogusSVO]

Looks like a good dirty core to start. Nothing odd looking so far. Even the close up of the cam journal looks par for the course.

What has me scratching my head is your remark about the 6pt 12mm socket.
6 bolt head bolts are a 10mm allen socket cap bolt.

But a 6pt 12mm will carry you a fair ways into the tear down.

** Tech Tip** Remove the bolts from the rear main seal plate before mounting the engine on the engine stand.

 

[Stew Pidaso]

This will be a nice thread to tag along with since my motor is coming out this weekend for a bottom end beefing this winter. Will definitely be following this! Do you plan on putting this in your car or are you just continuing with your current motor and holset?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Looks like a good dirty core to start. Nothing odd looking so far. Even the close up of the cam journal looks par for the course.

What has me scratching my head is your remark about the 6pt 12mm socket.
6 bolt head bolts are a 10mm allen socket cap bolt.

But a 6pt 12mm will carry you a fair ways into the tear down.

** Tech Tip** Remove the bolts from the rear main seal plate before mounting the engine on the engine stand.

Sorry yeah it's a 10mm alan 6point alan my bad and fixed

Thanks for the tech tip, i definately didn't do that yet . Stand is right in the way of the rear main off she comes again.

I'll be continuing with my current motor and holset for now. This will go in once i blow my current setup .

This motor could go into my car, or into a tube chassis build. Havent decided. But the options are avalible.

I think I'm doing pretty good considering i got the long block for $100 bucks.

 

[EVO9_Inside]

i just tore my spare motor apart the other day, these stock motors get so filthy i just want to power wash the whole thing before i even touch it.
good thread so far!

 

[Archer Fabrications]

i just tore my spare motor apart the other day, these stock motors get so filthy i just want to power wash the whole thing before i even touch it.
good thread so far!

You wouldnt be worried about surface rust!? I'd rather leave it to magnus's bead blasting/ultrasonic bath thingy.

I suppose power washing first wouldnt be too bad long as it was the outside? And then blasted anyway? I was opting for like 7cans of break clean. Then off to magnus for the deep cleaning. They probably get slammed with builds in the winter too.


Forgot to add the blocj has NO EXCESS thrust play. Paranoid as i am i even check the 6bolt for this.
The rods Move side to side ever so slightly but nothing abnormal Yet. Crossing fingers. Maybe I'll take the head off later today.

 

[lasthope05]

You can clean it yourself and save some money. After you clean the block you need to oil it down anyways. Use whatever degreaser you want but nothing cleans caked blocks like easy off(blue) oven cleaner.

Also remember to remove the oil galley plugs and get some gun cleaning brushes to get inside.

 

[EVO9_Inside]

You wouldnt be worried about surface rust!? I'd rather leave it to magnus's bead blasting/ultrasonic bath thingy.

I suppose power washing first wouldnt be too bad long as it was the outside? And then blasted anyway? I was opting for like 7cans of break clean. Then off to magnus for the deep cleaning. They probably get slammed with builds in the winter too.

I had ment the outside of the block, even my spare one at 65k on it was still covered in just filth. Insides dont bother me, in fact in i could have a candle that smelled like a freshly removed head...
Mines proving to be a nice core as well, im just shooting for 450 at most in this build so im not going to be sending my engine anywhere special, just a local tuning shop to be machined and bored, much less cost and turn around time.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Well magnus is 45 minutes from my house so i figure why not send it there. I just want them to clean it real good first so i can make sure it's a good core and I'll magna-flux it to see if there are any cracks. There are tons of
Machine shops around here but why not send it to the king of 6bolts .

 

[BogusSVO]

Just grab a a 10mm wrench and pull the bolts off then pry the plate back to clear the dowels and when you lift the crank out, the plate will come out too.


I have cleaned tons of blocks with 2 cans of easy off yellow can, a warm sunny day and let the block warm up and set in the easy off for an hour, then pressure wash off.

It will clean the heavy goop off, but it will still need a good detail cleaning.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Just grab a a 10mm wrench and pull the bolts off then pry the plate back to clear the dowels and when you lift the crank out, the plate will come out too.


I have cleaned tons of blocks with 2 cans of easy off yellow can, a warm sunny day and let the block warm up and set in the easy off for an hour, then pressure wash off.

It will clean the heavy goop off, but it will still need a good detail cleaning.

I wish a warm sunny day existed this time of year. It's been consistant 30's fml .

So bogus, i did the freeze plug installation on my current motor and i know how to put them in just fine, but how the hell do i go about removing them? Pierce through it and pull it out? I prefer brass freeze plugs

 

[BogusSVO]

well then bring the block in the house, put down some news paper, spray block with easy off.

Then load it in the dishwasher, let run 2 cycles.

Now what your wife will say to you after she finds out you did this, is NOT my fault!

Go eat butter tarts and drink Molson.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

well then bring the block in the house, put down some news paper, spray block with easy off.

Then load it in the dishwasher, let run 2 cycles.

Now what your wife will say to you after she finds out you did this, is NOT my fault!

Go eat butter tarts and drink Molson.

yeah dish washer. Good idea. Haha. Maybe a large
Space heater sitting next to the block for 3 hrs then easy off .

More like poutine and Molson. Lol

 

[lasthope05]

I wish a warm sunny day existed this time of year. It's been consistant 30's fml .

So bogus, i did the freeze plug installation on my current motor and i know how to put them in just fine, but how the hell do i go about removing them? Pierce through it and pull it out? I prefer brass freeze plugs

Tap one side in with a punch to rotate the plug and use pliers to pull them out.

When installing I like to scuff the bore, to clean it out, and apply either shellac or permatex #2.

Also you don't need heat with easy off, it just speeds up the process.

It works great for the inner baffles of the valve cover also but I would user the blue can for that because its more gentle and doesn't eat away at the aluminum.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

When i was installing in my current motor i punched it in dry with a socket and a hammer. no issues at all. I moght habe uaed oil on the plug bore. But no sealant.

Thats why i liked brass, because
Of it's softness and expansion.

 

[lasthope05]

Its cheap insurance. Don't ever want to do a job twice.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

We'll see what my handy PdF 1g service manual says

 

[BogusSVO]

Ohh the fun freeze plugs to get out are the 2 on the back of the block!!

You can smooth a thin cot of RTV on the freeze plug sides , or use no Harding gasket maker.

Vise grips can give you a better bite, if the spin goes wrong.

6 bolt, 9 35mm freeze plugs, or you can use 1 3/8, they just have a tad bit more press fit.

Is this a turbo block or as NA that you and the mad scientist are ripping apart because you fried the piston rings??

 

[Archer Fabrications]

It's a turbo block, and no mad scientist other than myself! Im going this one solo It's just a spare, i havent fried anything.... Yet.

 

[bryanwheat]

Buy purple power if you are going to clean it yourself. Degreaser will remove most of the grease, but will not remember the burnt on oil. This stuff is like magic.

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All original parts never cleaned.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Ok I'm sold on purple power. Lol good job bryan.

I noticed one of the upper exhaust studs is larger. Must have been stripped and re tapped. Also looks like the oil pump was
Leaking preeety bad as well as the valve cover gasket and oil pan. Both were caked in RTV and still leaking. Guys must not have cleaned everything well enough before clamping things down.

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Head is off, am i supposed to be able to push the pistons down and they should move? I can only turn it at the crank.

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Hope that journal is okay

Here are the rest of the pix. 45 mins i to tear down total.

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No signs of detonation. Bores look like they got some coolant in them from blown head gasket.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Gonna update

Took out the pistons and rods and found a nice surprise.

First I'll get to the bearings with forign contamination

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Now look at te little surprise i found in piston #1

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Yep cracked ring lands, real bad, broken ring lands actually, so i picked it out

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The others look fine

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And the bores in order starting with #1

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And noticed no granade pin

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[donniekak]

Why would a running engine have the timing tensioner pin in it?

Also, I've noticed the #1 piston seems to be the most likely to crack/melt. It must be something in the flow characteristics of the manifold.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Yeah interesting i havent done a toming belt in a whike, i didnit with a friend. All i remember is the oin shouldneasily go in and out if the tension is correct.

 

[leepen]

Yeah interesting i havent done a toming belt in a whike, i didnit with a friend. All i remember is the oin shouldneasily go in and out if the tension is correct.

correct