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2G FINISHED! 4G64 Sohc w/ 4G63T head

dsm_talon

Probationary Member
3
9
Feb 20, 2020
Greer, South_Carolina
Ill just start from the very beginning, I went to a car meet in my Talon and someone came up to me and said i like you car i have a parts one sitting behide my garage if you want it, i asked how much he said if you come get it you can have it. This car is a 97 Eclipse Spyder GS 4g64 SOHC. So me of course i said yes and 2 days later i was towing this eclipse down the road!!! The dude said he used it for parts he cut wires, fuel hoses, radiator hoses, pretty much everything in the way of the starter, well that kind of worried me but when i got the car home I noticed the only thing cut was 1 heater core hose, i slapped a starter in it and some new gas and the 4g64 fired right up like it never sat. Checked compression before swapping and got 170s across the board. There is a junk yard 1hr away that is in the back country and not alot of people go there and it’s not to known, well theres a spyder gs i took the skirts off of for my talon and oneday I look over and a unmodified 95 gst is just chilling on rotors😭 i pop the hood and sure enough the first ever 4G63 i have ever seen in person, i was like a kid in a candy shop. So being this gst is there and i have a 4g64 now i do hrs of research to find out the 4g64 block can be mated with the 4G63T head. Now after my ramble is the process of my swap! With pictures and videos.
So i took the 4g64 cylinder head off and noticed the block looks like it’s been rebuilt, cross hatching is amazing, pistons wiped clean with 1 stroke. It was amazing, so i cleaned the surfaces of the head and got everything all cleaned up. There are 5 oil hole in the block that need to be plugged, they are not pressurized but very ideal to seal them shut, i used freeze plugs ordered from parts stores. Sealed them shut and taped off the block waiting to pull the 4G63T cylinder head. Pulled the 4G63T head and both wiring harness as well as a e prom ecu!!! Got home and installed both harness and the ecu. Installed the fuel resistor pack and knock sensor and was good to go. The head looked brand new like it just got worked on and im 75% it has been rebuilt. So cleaned the head up and i used a 87mm 4g63 felpro head gasket from the parts store, 4g63 felpro head bolts… i know I should have got arps. Installed the head on the block and torqued it all down! Next came timing, i bought the 95 2g timing kit so I didn’t have to piece parts together. When timing it is best to use a 4G64 DOHC timing belt as it has 1 extra tooth to make up for the 6mm extra the 4G64 block has. When timing if using 4G63 cam gears they will both have to be marked 1/2 tooth advanced. Got it all timed up and turned over by hand and it went smoothly. Plugged all sensor plugs in, plumbed ic and piping and installed oil and coolant, unplugged the coil and primed the system, plugged the coil in and bam the 4G64/63T fired right up like I never even worked on it!!! It was so awesome, it didnt idle and wouldn’t run top notch at first but it was running!!!! Got everything plumbed up right and hooked up and got it to idle. Installed a boost gauge and was hitting 7psi on the 25yr old stock T25. Got the car running and semi driveable and bam 2 weeks later the T25 lets me down… 16G innrhe

Video of progress
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dsm_talon

Probationary Member
3
9
Feb 20, 2020
Greer, South_Carolina
For anyone curious of the exact list of parts used ill list them.
Complete 4G63T cylinder head
Complete 4G64 block
5 freeze plugs from autozone
87mm 4G63 felpro headgasket
Felpro head bolts.. i know arp are best
95 4G63 cam gears
95 2g timing kit
94 Galant GS DOHC timing belt
4G63 fuel resistor pack, and knock sensor
95 e prom ecu and harness from car i got the head from
Turbo coolant return line to block
Fitting for oil pan for turbo drain
Oil filter housing bung for turbo feed
 
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biglady112

Proven Member
1,743
281
May 20, 2004
Commerce City, Colorado
Here is one I finished and sent home today. This is a SOHC 16 valve 2.4 with a 4g63 head on it. I am leaving it turned down as I don’t know how much I can trust the pistons and rings from butting together.

it is capped at 20psi on a GTX3071. The car normally lives around 30-31psi and made 411whp a few months back on a bone stock 7 bolt from valve cover to oil pan. He and the previous owner beat the car hard and they wiped the main bearings badly. So bad it spun the #4 main.

Either way it is back on the road for now.

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biglady112

Proven Member
1,743
281
May 20, 2004
Commerce City, Colorado
There was no need. The pistons had a significant dish in them. He is coming back soon for more cooling upgrades. I can measure it again. I honestly doesn’t mean a thing to me as the motor runs just fine.

The numbers it will show won’t be entirely relevant to others anyway as I live at 6000ft and I did not do a test on the stock 7 bolt that came out of it.
 

arrowhead

Proven Member
924
60
Apr 19, 2011
miami, Florida
Well the reason for my request is that there have been all kinds of numbers posted about this combo.
Some as high as 14 to 1.
Thanks
Mandy
 

biglady112

Proven Member
1,743
281
May 20, 2004
Commerce City, Colorado
Looking at the dish in the pistons, I highly doubt that. I would not be surprised if the static compression was under 9.5:1. The 8/12 valve motors I can see something odd like that.

A normal stock 2.0 here is around 100-130psi depending on condition. 120 is a good round number where they fall. I will do a test when the car comes back for more upgrades soon.
 
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