The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Finally Replaced the Valve Cover Gasket [Merged 7-9]

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Looks like diff prices for diff years / model.
95-99 NT - $13.88
93-98 T - $38.41
1990-? T (my car-specific search) - $29.08

I understand the diff btw Turbo and NT.. but btw Turbo years? Weird.
 
Yesterday I went to change the spark plugs in my 95 Eclipse RS the first spark plug was fine but other 3 spark plugs were covered in OIL! I looked inside where the spark plugs go and the valve cover gasket is leaking oil down to the spark plugs! Can anybody give me steps on how to replace the Valve cover gasket? and how I can get that Oil out where the spark plugs go? and Would any of that oil leak past the spark plugs when I took them out..IS this a serious problem? I hope it didn't leak down to the cylinders..Please I am in need of help..Thankz ~Dustin(Eclipse95)
 
take valve cover off
take valve cover gasket off
put a new one on
put valve cover back on.
 
If the oil is on the spark plugs then the leak isn't the valve cover gasket itself. It would be the seals in the valve cover that go around the spark plug holes. Either way the valve cover gasket is still gonna have to be replaced. Whatever you do, don't tighten the valve cover bolts too much or the valve cover will crack.
 
alright thankz for the help?!? so this should be fairly easy to do myself? do I need any gasket sealer? and also how can I get that oil out where the spark plugs are? seems to be a tight space...
 
The task shouldn't be too difficult. the spark plug seals should just pull off. You might not need gasket sealer, but keep some handy just in case. As far as getting the oil out of the spark plug holes I say loosely stuff a rag down there and pull it out with a pair of needlenose pilers or a long screwdriver. I could be wrong about that part though. There might be a better way to do that.
 
Put RTV on the VC gasket when you put it back on. Just follow the instructions on it and you will do fine. Just remeber. You can always retighten the VC bolts if need be but you cant fix cracks if you tighten them too much.
 
You will need RTV for this job. Follow everyone elses steps for removal and installation of the v.c. but before reinstalling it, apply a small bead of RTV (ATF or Engine RTV From the dealer) where the caps meet the cylinder head. These caps run the length of the head at the front of the engine (closest to the cam gears), and on the exhaust cam at the rear of the head (closest to the battery). The RTV goes where the caps meet the head itself. RTV is not needed on a factory replacement gasket except at the points I mentioned as well as a small film on the spark plug tube seals. This small film will act as an adhesive to hold the seals in place while you are flipping the cover right side up and installing it.

Failure to use RTV at these points will promote an oil leak. The gasket is very good but it cannot seal up the crisp corner where the cap meets the head. I believe the torque specs are in three steps with the last step tightening the bolts to 105 inch/pounds (note I did not say foot/lbs).
You tighten the middle left (car's front) then the middle right (car's rear) then middle front (car's right) and then middle rear (car's left). Basically a + sign. Then all four corners. You repeat this step three times gradually increasing the torque setting until you reach the specified final torque spec. Following this procedure will prevent over-tightening as well as promote proper seating of the gasket and seals.

If you're concerned about the oil in the tubes you may want to make a trip to the grocery store and buy a turkey baster that will fit down the hole or you can try and syphon it out with a hose.
Doug
 
Tis helps me a lot too. I'm putting a valve cover on my car. The old one was cracked because of the former owner(friggin' idiot). But the service manual says the torque specs are 36 in/lbs not 105 in/lbs. No offense, but i'm gonna follow the service manual.
 
The original person who started the thread has a 2gnt. Torque specs are not all the same from vehicle to vehicle. Plus I was working off memory and not a book. If your manual says 36 in/lbs then go with that.
Doug
 
It's made of rubber. Just wondering whether I need it for this one or not. Someone told me no, but I want to get a second opinion. One more thing, what are some problems a bad valve cover gasket can cause, besides oil leaking?
 
Some people put some on the head where the half moon parts are... but like you said it is rubber and shouldnt need it.
 
i always put a little black rtv along the head. It doesnt take much and its not like its difficult.
 
I've accepted the fact that there will always be leaks so I just ignore them now.
 
I was driving Home from work....

and after like 30 mins I got homeand I checked my OIL and there was NO OIL on the dipstick at all....



I looked under my car and it was slowly dripping...

I took it to a guy I know he says the Valve Cover was leaking around the seals.

IS it possible for THIS much oil to leak? I lost about 2 Quarts....


Anyways, I bought a NEW Gasket and I was wondering if anyone had ANY advice on what to do?

What should I do? and How much torque should I apply to the bolts?

(ive never done this before)

Any Advice would help. Thanks.
 
last post:

So here's the deal.. when the car (1990 tsi awd) goes into higher rpms, smoke comes outta hood and fills the car as well.. usually only happens when rpms stay high or are happening often.. checked valve cover and valve cover gasket, turns out nothing outta there... then i checked my dipstick.. it wasnt put in all the way so i thiought maybe it was out of there... but thats not sealing right... the dipstick is bent so i did a temp fix and duct taped it down to seal it right.. went for a drive.. seemed alright but then i hit higher rpms and smoke poured out everywhere and i open the hood and oil is all over again- burning off.... what do u think this could be.... most of the oil i see burning is off the turbo's heat shield around the dipstick area.... let me know please...

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/data/501/18409PICT0135.JPG">

you can see the duct tape temp fix... as well as no leaks from the vlave cover and none on the duct tape after the drive clarifying thats its not from there.... a little oil under right side of valve cover but the whole engine is pretty greasy in general

TODAY:
so i took off the spark plug cover today to confirm this.. valve cover gasket or other leaking...

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/data/501/18409PICT0074.JPG">

pulled the spark plug wiress off to check the well for oil.... got 3 off fine then thent his happened with the last one :(

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/data/501/18409PICT0079.JPG">

but just an excuse for new plug wires....

looks like nothing in the wells though!?!? what is going on where is the oil coming from? the bolts u can see in the picture?? the ones on the valve cover?

<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/data/501/18409PICT0082.JPG">

thanks for any suggestions or comments in advance...
 
have you ever removed your valve cover or retorqued it because if you did there is a good chance you cracked it i was rebuilding my engine and put two of the tiniest hairline cracks in the far right corner and it spit ol all over the place i was going nuts for months before i figured it out the valve covers sell on ebay for like 50 plus shipping its worth it for peace of mind its unlikley that your valve cover gasket is leaking because of the way its designed but you can buy a new one at auto zone for 46 i know its expensive but worth it if you decide to go the route of new valve cover follow the tourque specs they will save your ass
 
Another thing that could be it is the oil cap. The oil cap has alittle o-ring type deal on it and sometimes it just gets old and the oil comes out of there. Happened to me. Just go pick up another oil cap and change the valve cover and valve cover gasket and hopefully that solves the problem.
Chris
 
from the way the pictures look it seams like it might be your oil cap like kinetic said. i think i read somewhere that someone flipped the cap upside down and it fixed the problem. you could try and see if that helps. if it does then that is likely your problem. good luck!
 
Originally posted by 1FlyTsiVT
most of the oil i see burning is off the turbo's heat shield around the dipstick area.... let me know please...

-Try the oil cap gasket seal like other had suggested, if it still leak, you can cut a shim out of plastic bottle to increase the seal's thickness as a temperory fix until you get a new gasket, look carefully to the valve cover, straight ahead from the dip stick's top, there's a tiny vent hole casted on the valve cover for the liquid to drain out from the spark plug channel to the front, if there's crack on the valve cover, JB-Weld can seal small crack, if you can wait, get a set of new NGK (7mm) wire, they're cheap and last a long time, take the dip stick to home-depot, get 2 small O rings that fit on the grove of the rubber seal of the dip stick, they will keep the stick from popping out.
 
Yea I also think that the oil comes out from ur CAP.When my cap was liking all the oild was going under the sparkplugs cover just like ur case.
I also notised that ur oil line (on he head) is very oiled.Check it too.They always leak on the left end of it,mine leaks very vefy lightly even that Im N/A.
Another thing.Im not sure that I saw right but from the pics,looks like u have no breater filter on?? Is that so? If so,when you hit HIGH RPM the oil will get sprayed out from there and will go all over ur termostat area and IC pipe.
Also,VERY IMPORTANT THING to make sure of is ur PCV valve.IF PCV
valve is cloged the engine might be geting higher presure and it has to go out from somwhere and that is OIL CAP.So make sure PCV is allright too or some peeps use OIL CATCH CAN.
Hope that helps.GL:thumb:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top