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FIC BlueMax 1450cc Tuning

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mnetwork

20+ Year Contributor
1,017
2
Feb 25, 2006
New Milford, New Jersey
I'm looking into buying BlueMax 1450cc injectors and I was wondering how tuning is on these. I am seeing mixed answers and I would like some input from people who have used or are currently using these with DSMLink. How is the driveability on them? Any issues?
 
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I'm interested in the 1450s as well to run E85 with the HX35, but definitely don't want to have any drive-ability concerns. I really thought that was the point of the Bluemax injectors. I had no issues with my 1o50cc injectors

I am using them right now and I don't have problems driving. I watch the fuel trims and at certain moments the ECU is working harder to compensate (you will see the STFT max out for a second at +/- 16.9) than it did on my old injectors, but my LTFTs are still in line and driveability is not a problem.
 
They pissed me off this morning. Car has been sitting for a couple of days and went to start it this morning and it didn't wanna start. Ended up killing my small battery that I got from JMF. Yay. Not sure if an Easy Tune box would help with this or not. I do have a hard time trying to start it from time to time. Pretty annoying. I'd like to go with a smaller injector without any of these issues, but at the same time, I wanna have all the fuel I need for my HX52 when I install it.
 
I "think" I may have it just about tuned to where i need it now. But when the fans kick on, the car just about dies cause it leans out so much. Are you guys using Injbatteryadj to help with this? I'm not sure where I should really adjust it. I dunno about V2, but V3 makes it pretty easy on some things such as mafcompadjust, etc. But as far as Injbatteryadj, I'm not sure how much to adjust each point and don't wanna adjust it too far.

Watch battery volts when the fans are on and off. If volts drops when the fans are on, add deadtime only at that voltage. If the trims show that it's too rich when the fans are off and batt volts are higher, remove deadtime only at that voltage.

The same thing applies when starting the car- watch batt volts during starting. Volts usually dips to high 9's to low 10's when cranking over with a good batt, so add extra deadtime at that voltage.
 
Watch battery volts when the fans are on and off. If volts drops when the fans are on, add deadtime only at that voltage. If the trims show that it's too rich when the fans are off and batt volts are higher, remove deadtime only at that voltage.

The same thing applies when starting the car- watch batt volts during starting. Volts usually dips to high 9's to low 10's when cranking over with a good batt, so add extra deadtime at that voltage.

Even with fluctuation the car shouldn't be that hard to start unless your settings are way off or there is some other issue.
 
Even with fluctuation the car shouldn't be that hard to start unless your settings are way off or there is some other issue.

That's what I'm saying, the settings are off. Deadtime is typically adjusted by adding the same ammount of time to each voltage level. I don't think it's right. Deadtime is higher at low volts in the stock table, so the additional deadtime added when upgrading to larger injectors should also be greater at low volts.

Most people seem to agree that fuel trims tend to float around due to unknown variables. This is one of those variables. The alternator will put out more volts when cool, and volts gradually goes down as the engine bay heats up. The change is only a few tenths of a volt due to heat, but it's enough to move the fuel trims slightly.
 
That's what I'm saying, the settings are off. Deadtime is typically adjusted by adding the same ammount of time to each voltage level. I don't think it's right. Deadtime is higher at low volts in the stock table, so the additional deadtime added when upgrading to larger injectors should also be greater at low volts.

Most people seem to agree that fuel trims tend to float around due to unknown variables. This is one of those variables. The alternator will put out more volts when cool, and volts gradually goes down as the engine bay heats up. The change is only a few tenths of a volt due to heat, but it's enough to move the fuel trims slightly.

I know my fuel trims do float. My alternator puts out less after the car running for a while.. I will go from 14v at startup to low 13's after the car has been running for a while.

My fuel trims bounce around based on so many things. My trims are different when going up a hill than when coasting at the same air flow and rpm. Different depending on engine temps, different depending on voltage. I have found there way too much variation to get it perfect. As long as your STFTs aren't seeing +/- 16.8 (2g) then you're good. As long as the ECU has enough room compensate you will not have a big problem. Also, make sure you have the dead time close for idle and low throttle driveability...
 
I've been running the 1550's in my car since September 2009 and I've had no issues at all controlling them but i'm running e85 so you use alot more fuel and it's easier to dial them in.
 
It's typically understood and what John of FIC recommends for injectors over 1450cc. I've been runing 1450s with no idle part throttle issues as have others with out the box. But that's about the limit according to many.
 
It's typically understood and what John of FIC recommends for injectors over 1450cc. I've been runing 1450s with no idle part throttle issues as have others with out the box. But that's about the limit according to many.
Just giving my opinion on it as well from my experience...:thumb: An I'm aware of this.

Neither have I had any issues....an Yes that's the one of the reasons I didn't go larger

^^^^ What are your fuel settings for the 1450's? I just picked some up and want some good starting numbers.

Gas ? or E85? an are you asking Matt or me? LOL
 
E85, 49% global, 570 usec adjustment for dead time. I've aleays had to dial in my setup richer in the base settings to get the fuel trims to stay at about 100. But it runs well with 110-120 fuel trims too.
 
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Honestly I wouldn't use a "Standard"(across the board) Deadtime (+Stock 645us) value for any aftermarket injector as they don't have the same linearity as the Stock injectors an would adjust your Deadtime Vs Voltage in DA...

These aren't my DT values(mine are higher) But, you could use these as a starting point Boomdeeze. The Global dsm-onster Posted for Ethanol is also a good starting point for E85 ... BUT, your global is going to really depend on whether your pumping E70,E79,E85 and what your base fuel pressure is, Et cetra

Also if you see farther back in the thread other people are using (Including myself) higher DT values then I have listed here an what dsm-onster posted above...
For 93 octane = -69/global 735/deadtime
 

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I just purchased a set and I was wondering about drive-ability conditions untuned with dsmlink to get to my house to RRE? It's about a 2 -2.5hr drive. Pretty much my question is, should I put the injectors in now and then drive to RRE or wait until I get to RRE and then swap them out? What about the fuel, should I fill it up with e85 now and then drive out there or drive out there with 91 and then fill it up with e85? BTW, car is going to be on e85 only.

I'm thinking the most convenient way for me to do this is put the 1450s in, fill it up with e85, and drive out to RRE, but Im unsure if this is safe. Anyone? Thanks.
 
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