The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G FIAV block off, fixed high idle, now causing another idle issue

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Misterflipster

5+ Year Contributor
100
22
Apr 5, 2020
sioux falls, South Dakota
So yesterday i got the fiav blocked and now from a cold start i hold the throttle open and the car will eventually hold itself at 1k. However once i go to drive it and i put it under load, when i come off the gas it will die.

Other issue i have is that the car wont start after it warms up, im thinking its an alternator issue because it will run for some time and die on its own also. Dash lights flicker, i havent seen headlights flickering but yeah. I think its an alternator? My tuner suggested checking grounds (he believes the car might be relying on the chasis too much for ground??)
 
Does your isc click several times when you turn the to the on position? You can also check the isc with a 6 volt camera battery to ensure the stepper motor is actually moving. Also your ecu is not looking for a maf sensor. Your data log shows 77 degrees. Unless this is a coincidence the ecu will lock at 77 degrees as a default if there is no input from a maf sensor.

Mine would say 77 if I logged maf intake temp. However I log gm iat with SD and it’s accurate. Check to see if your intake and baro are locked on ecm link. If you are running a maf you need to unlock it.

Also if my tuner rigged up a map sensor like that on my car it would be the last time he touched my car.

Why is the timing 39 at idle?

-Daniel
The maf is no longer being used, it was removed. From everyone ive spoken to i no longer need it.

The isc click, it miiiight? I forgot. I think so on a cold start i can hear some clicking
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The maf is no longer being used, it was removed. From everyone ive spoken to i no longer need it.
The picture you posted of the hacked up map sensor. Is it the factory one or does it say Omni on it? As far as the high idle

- boost leak test( this doesn’t mean look at stuff and touch it and say looks good. Do a actual real blt and use soapy water.
- make sure the sas is set correctly( 2g is 1 1/4 turn after the stopper touches the throttle plate.
- after confirming the sas is correct adjust the tps so that the idle switch is properly working. You can use link to adjust and simulate it but I would adjust it correctly first.

Do them in that order and post your results.

-Daniel
 
The picture you posted of the hacked up map sensor. Is it the factory one or does it say Omni on it? As far as the high idle

- boost leak test( this doesn’t mean look at stuff and touch it and say looks good. Do a actual real blt and use soapy water.
- make sure the sas is set correctly( 2g is 1 1/4 turn after the stopper touches the throttle plate.
- after confirming the sas is correct adjust the tps so that the idle switch is properly working. You can use link to adjust and simulate it but I would adjust it correctly first.

Do them in that order and post your results.

-Daniel
Okay, i will have to do them tomorrow some time as im otw to work. As far as the boost leak testing i smoke tested it. I have a smoke tester that pushes smoke through the system and there was no leaks.
 
Okay, i will have to do them tomorrow some time as im otw to work. As far as the boost leak testing i smoke tested it. I have a smoke tester that pushes smoke through the system and there was no leaks.
How much pressure does the smoke test put into the intake tract?
 
I highly recommend a boost leak test. 1 psi is not effective.

-Daniel
I will take that into consideration, but it does build over time. After about 5-10 minutes the system is filled with smoke. And the company uses this on all sorts of turbo vehicles for this exact thing.

Search autoline pro, and see the reviews. They are a great source for boost leak testing
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Your smoke machine is fine for locating vacuum leaks that would contribute to your idle issue. However, you need to pressurize the intake to at least the same boost pressure you run to locate any boost leaks.
 
Your smoke machine is fine for locating vacuum leaks that would contribute to your idle issue. However, you need to pressurize the intake to at least the same boost pressure you run to locate any boost leaks
Alright, well it will have to wait till i can gather some funds up for some tools. I have quite the christmas list this year LOL. Otherwise i can take it back to the tuner and have them recheck. They also did a boost leak test and said everything was fine on that end prior to me picking the car back up.
 
Alright, well it will have to wait till i can gather some funds up for some tools. I have quite the christmas list this year LOL. Otherwise i can take it back to the tuner and have them recheck. They also did a boost leak test and said everything was fine on that end prior to me picking the car back up.
If you have access to an air compressor, a BLT tool is like $20 in parts from your favorite hardware store.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
My man there's no reason why you can't upload a quick log as a photo. That would really help. Do the TPS adjustment and capture every single engine parameter you can..... and please don't ask how to capture things on ecmlink. Check out the ecmlink wiki and figure out how to use the software. It's too much energy to try and explain 30 different things while also trouble-shooting the main problem.

Do everything on this webpage and report back when you're completely done.
 
My man there's no reason why you can't upload a quick log as a photo.
I did upload a log if u scroll up its there, I will repost it here though but yeah I'm VERY new with ECMLink so its taking some time to figure it out. That's where I'm at so far.

I was instructed by one of the other guys to recheck TPS and ISC and a couple other things since I found that the alternator was slightly unplugged and not charging the battery.

So now that its in all the way it is working but my idle is now back up to 2k+ since I plugged the alt. Back up

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


If you have access to an air compressor, a BLT tool is like $20 in parts from your favorite hardware store.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I can try to do something like that but where did you make that grey part LOL
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
My man there's no reason why you can't upload a quick log as a photo. That would really help. Do the TPS adjustment and capture every single engine parameter you can..... and please don't ask how to capture things on ecmlink. Check out the ecmlink wiki and figure out how to use the software. It's too much energy to try and explain 30 different things while also trouble-shooting the main problem.

Do everything on this webpage and report back when you're completely done.
For what's its worth he doesn't mean a physical picture of the screen. You post the actual log file. Use the "upload picture" to do so. You aren't actually posting a picture. You're posting the log. Those of use with ecmlink can download it and look at it just like you would. Also let's us check all your settings etc so we know what you did.
 
Last edited:
For what's its worth he dies mean a physical picture of the screen. Yiu post the actual log file. You the "upload picture" to do so. You aren't actually posting a picture. You're posting the log. Those of use with ecmlink can download it and look at it just like you would. Also let's us check all your settings etc so we know what you did.
Oh, so when I click on add photo or what have you I drop the log file that's saved from my desktop and post it then. I didn't know we could do that.

On top? That's an air hose quick release fitting.
The light grey part connected to the coupler. The quick release i know i can buy, the grey part idk where id find something to work like that LOL. Id have to look around. But great contraption.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Will do, i tried to hook up to ECMlink, i got it going to a connected state, saved the datalogs and next is to try to idle the car and figure out if the TPS is "angled" at .63v, with the car off its at .55v but its too late to start the car as its too loud. It'll have to wait till the morning.
Car off it should be .63v
 
Yes that's exactly what you do.

Hopefully this works LOL.

Side note, I got the TPS to .63v and when I close press the gas pedal in all the way it goes to exactly 5.00v which is at 100% throttle according to the capture.

Doesn't appear to be allowing me to post the file here unless I missed a step. I just click add photo, go to where I save my log, select add file and post, right?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Here we go. This log is just with the car off and all the stuff that needs to be there (hopefully)
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top