2G FIAV block off, fixed high idle, now causing another idle issue

[Misterflipster]

So yesterday i got the fiav blocked and now from a cold start i hold the throttle open and the car will eventually hold itself at 1k. However once i go to drive it and i put it under load, when i come off the gas it will die.

Other issue i have is that the car wont start after it warms up, im thinking its an alternator issue because it will run for some time and die on its own also. Dash lights flicker, i havent seen headlights flickering but yeah. I think its an alternator? My tuner suggested checking grounds (he believes the car might be relying on the chasis too much for ground??)

 

[Misterflipster]

Ouch - you should get your money back for that sensor install - That was a hack job.

Yeah trust me I left feeling pretty taken advantage of, but at the end of the day this is where I'm at and I'm trying my best to just get the car to a point where I can just take it to them, they can dyno it or whatever and be done.

Thats why I'm very heavily leaning on you guys for support. Thanks by the way everyone.

You need this:

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And this:

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Now this part is just for testing boost leaks right?
I don't need to have it closed up in order to idle right. I plan to get that made on my weekend (sunday morning is my first day off for the week)

 

[99dsmer4g63]

now this part is just for testing boost leaks right? i dont need to have it closed up in order to idle right....i plan to get that made on my weekend (sunday morning is my first day off for the week)

The piece hooked to the turbo is for testing for leaks. Make sure you turn the regulator on your compressor down. I built one differently with all parts from Lowe’s that I think is a little nicer. No hate on the other guys efforts. The pvc piece already has 1/2 npt threads on it. Just reduce it to 1/8 npt and I got a gauge and schrader valve. Just my .02

-Daniel

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[Vegas Smith]

So, you don't have a tuner. You have a mechanic. They don't appear to have done anything with the tune. Like I said, capture and log all engine parameters you can so that when the car does run, we can look at whatever parameter we want. Install an IAT as mentioned. If you're done with this shop then I would have it remote-tuned by someone else.

 

[Justin DuBois]

now this part is just for testing boost leaks right? i dont need to have it closed up in order to idle right....i plan to get that made on my weekend (sunday morning is my first day off for the week)

Right - don't run the engine with a boost tester attached to the turbo intake. Just test for leaks. First time doing this, slowly turn on the air using the pressure regulator on your air compressor. - I am confident you will find something leaking.

 

[Misterflipster]

So, you don't have a tuner. You have a mechanic. They don't appear to have done anything with the tune. Like I said, capture and log all engine parameters you can so that when the car does run, we can look at whatever parameter we want. Install an IAT as mentioned. If you're done with this shop then I would have it remote-tuned by someone else.

I can send the newest log i have now if you want? And what would remote tuning look like?

more like tuners who don't know much about mechanical. They couldn't even figure out that the radiator fan just had an unplugged connector, then the fans worked. I literally traced the radiator fan line back and found it hanging out. Connected it and it turned right on.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I can send the newest log i have now if you want? And what would remote tuning look like?

Post it up. What injectors?

 

[Misterflipster]

I can send the newest log i have now if you want? And what would remote tuning look like?

Any recommendations for the IAT sensor?

Post it up. What injectors?

This is the current mod list, 650cc injectors
The maf translator is no longer being used. ignore that

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[Justin DuBois]

Any recommendations for the IAT sensor?

Everybody uses the GM IAT. Not expensive.

 

[Misterflipster]

Post it up. What injectors?

This is the most current log i have, this is with @Justin DuBois info as well..

 

[Justin DuBois]

This is the most current log i have, this is with @Justin DuBois info as well..

Great - now turn on the stream for a few seconds with ECMLink connected to the car, press the throttle all the way to the floor and back a couple times, stop the stream - and save and upload .elg file.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Just so you know as well. My tuner is my tuner. If I brought my car to him in the condition yours was he would of roasted me and told me to come back when I was ready. Tuners don’t like people bringing them stuff that isn’t ready for a tune( your car). Also if I’d show him the picture of what they did to your map sensor he’d laugh and say find a different tuner.

He’s very capable of doing mechanics but that’s not his business. He also always tells me how well I put my car together every time I see him. Tuners love cars ready to go. Just keep that in mind.

-Daniel

 

[Misterflipster]

Great - now turn on the stream for a few seconds with ECMLink connected to the car, press the throttle all the way to the floor and back a couple times, stop the stream - and save and upload .elg file.

Just so you know as well. My tuner is my tuner. If I brought my car to him in the condition yours was he would of roasted me and told me to come back when I was ready. Tuners don’t like people bringing them stuff that isn’t ready for a tune( your car). Also if I’d show him the picture of what they did to your map sensor he’d laugh and say find a different tuner.

He’s very capable of doing mechanics but that’s not his business. He also always tells me how well I put my car together every time I see him. Tuners love cars ready to go. Just keep that in mind.

-Daniel

right im aware, but when u get a car thats already heavily modified sorting it out by yourself is tedious. plus i havent ever worked on a car so extensively modified....

Great - now turn on the stream for a few seconds with ECMLink connected to the car, press the throttle all the way to the floor and back a couple times, stop the stream - and save and upload .elg file.

 

[Justin DuBois]

More to consider:

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- sorry - throttle to the floor and back is without the engine running. Bet that was loud

 

[Misterflipster]

More to consider:

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Well that's the original issue remember. I cant seem to get the idle down past 2k-2500. (I DID have it idling at 1k, but that's when i didn't know the alternator wasn't plugged in and it was running off the batt. As soon as i plugged the alternator cable back in it was back to 2k)

- sorry - throttle to the floor and back is without the engine running. Bet that was loud

It was beautiful man it has a rev limiter at 4k so it sounded soooo good .

 

[Justin DuBois]

Well thats the original issue remember....i cant seem to get the idle down past 2k-2500....(i DID have it idling at 1k, but thats when i didnt know the alternator wasnt plugged in and it was running off the batt. As soon as i plugged the alternator cable back in it was back to 2k)

Its not a surprise to have new idle when the power is 13-14v vs 10-12 off the battery.
I'm thinking you need to adjust your captured values now that you have the AEM wideband configured as an ECU input. You want to add the AEM wideband to the "Edit->Captured Values" list. - And the idle will come down when you have sealed up all the boost leaks, and set the BISS with a warm engine (coolant temps 180-190)

 

[Vegas Smith]

This is the most current log i have, this is with @Justin DuBois info as well..

Always post a log and not just the settings. For global, put 31, for deadtime put 210. enable idle switch; that's why you're rev limiter is 4k. Are you certain you have wideband switchpoint correct? Just aking

Then post a new log.

 

[Misterflipster]

Always post a log and not just the settings. For global, put 31, for deadtime put 210. enable idle switch; that's why you're rev limiter is 4k. Are you certain you have wideband switchpoint correct? Just aking

Then post a new log.

The rev limit i didnt set it, its whatever came stock on DSMlink. Let me make other other adjustments real quick, then i have to go to work

As for wb switchpoint idk what value to enter, i dont have the manual. I was handed the car as is, and the DSMlink is on factory settings. So if theres a safe value to put to try to get idle right i will try it.

For the new log did u need it running or not?

 

[Justin DuBois]

For the new log did u need it running or not?

Start with not

 

[Misterflipster]

Start with not

no start

Start with not

Hot start (car was already warm so it took a sec to get her going...)

 

[Dericsh]

You’re getting a lot of great help here.

Once you get things settled down, I would recommend cutting your loses with the guys that looked at it before. There are several reputable remote tuners for DSMs, on this site and elsewhere.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Do you know if the base timing has been set correctly? - you need to get the idle under control so you can temporally have ECM Link to hold 5 deg of timing - then adjust the Cam sensor to until the mark on the crank pulley lines up with the mark on the timing cover.

Hot start (car was already warm so it took a sec to get her going...)

Looks like your global fuel got set to 0% - that will be very rich on 650cc injectors. Vegas posted to start with -30%

TPS looks fine.
Looks like it is hard to start when hot. - going WOT over and over

 

[Misterflipster]

Looks like your global fuel got set to 0% - that will be very rich on 650cc injectors. Vegas posted to start with -30%

TPS looks fine.
Looks like it is hard to start when hot. - going WOT over and over

Yeah when the car is warm its a pain to start. The hot start is one issue I consider the biggest issue as far as drive ability. Once it gets up to temp, its almost impossible to get it started again. IDK why, still troubleshooting that too.

Oops as far as RELIABILITY** not drive ability

Oh i just saw 31% so that's what I went with. I will make those adjustments when I get home from work. As for the timing I am not sure, previous owner never mentioned any issues with timing so I've been trying it as is. The "tuners" didn't say anything about the timing either so I can look at it.

Although physically adjusting it will take some work/time if the belt has to come off and what not. I will check to see if the lines meet up when i rotate the belt in the morning.

There are several reputable remote tuners for DSMs, on this site and elsewhere.

I am thinking about contacting the ricky guy everyone here seems to use him and he does great work, but i feel like it'll be awhile till i get this car where it needs to be :/

 

[Dericsh]

Yeah when the car is warm it’s a pain to start. Oh i just saw 31% so thats what i went with. I will make those adjustments when i get home from work. As for the timing i am not sure, previous owner never mentioned any issues with timing so ive been trying it as is...the "tuners" didnt say anything about the timing either so i can look at it. Although physically adjusting it will take some work/time if the belt has to come off and what not. I will check to see if the lines meet up when i rotate the belt in the morning.

Check and make sure everything lines up, for sure, but I believe Justin is talking about base ignition timing. You’ll need a timing light which is a cool old school toy- I mean tool.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Check and make sure everything lines up, for sure, but I believe Justin is talking about base ignition timing. You’ll need a timing light which is a cool old school toy- I mean tool.

yeah, base timing. with 2G sensors you don’t have to do anything cause they are fixed in place, but with a 6 bolt engine there is no place to bolt on the crank sensor, (unless you use the kiggly racing setup) so the crank signal is comming from the Cam sensor on the head, and it is adjustable. If you have never set it, it needs to be checked.

 

[Misterflipster]

yeah, base timing. with 2G sensors you don’t have to do anything cause they are fixed in place, but with a 6 bolt engine there is no place to bolt on the crank sensor, (unless you use the kiggly racing setup) so the crank signal is comming from the Cam sensor on the head, and it is adjustable. If you have never set it, it needs to be checked.

Yes i have never set it and never had a 6 bolt, first time with a 6 bolt so i havent a clue, i can try searching on here

Also IAT is ordered.