2G FIAV block off, fixed high idle, now causing another idle issue

[Misterflipster]

So yesterday i got the fiav blocked and now from a cold start i hold the throttle open and the car will eventually hold itself at 1k. However once i go to drive it and i put it under load, when i come off the gas it will die.

Other issue i have is that the car wont start after it warms up, im thinking its an alternator issue because it will run for some time and die on its own also. Dash lights flicker, i havent seen headlights flickering but yeah. I think its an alternator? My tuner suggested checking grounds (he believes the car might be relying on the chasis too much for ground??)

 

[Misterflipster]

It's in the FAQ section.....
That's a big hint.
There is so much information already archived.

Yep, thats what i used to gather the list, however that was just a log with the car off, i can do another with the car running later (probably what you guys wanted) but its still a little too early to have that thing running

 

[Vegas Smith]

You have a shitload of stuff wrong. What role is your tuner playing in all of this?

 

[steve]

Let me quickly add that if the car is idling at 2k and not surging the IPS adjustment is wrong.

 

[Misterflipster]

You have a shitload of stuff wrong. What role is your tuner playing in all of this?

I dont think the tuner was able to get to doing much of the tuning stuff due to the idle issue? They said they were trying to tell the car to idle lower but it wouldnt go, or something like that...they told me that i "need to bring the idle down then i can bring it back for tuning"

Let me quickly add that if the car is idling at 2k and not surging the IPS adjustment is wrong.

So many acronyms ...idle position sensor? (Total guess ) where is this one located and how can i adjust it?

 

[Dericsh]

So many acronyms ...idle position sensor? (Total guess ) where is this one located and how can i adjust it?

Dig thru this whole post but #6 on the list may help the most.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/want-help-from-ecmlink-experts-read-this-or-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/

 

[Misterflipster]

Dig thru this whole post but #6 on the list may help the most.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/want-help-from-ecmlink-experts-read-this-or-receive-no-replies-from-the-wisemen.443297/

I have to look into the idle switch portion, i know this thread got really long but i did test the ISC earlier, i got 40v across all pins.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Your big issue is you dont have a working o2 sensor. Your tuner only set your wideband up 50% of the way so the car has no working wideband. Simulate wideband needs to be enabled with the correct switchpoint voltage inputted. Coasting fuel needs to come down to 50-100. Report back preferably with a running log.

 

[Misterflipster]

i have adjusted the throttle cable now as well according to the post

this is right now as it warms up. i gave two small revs just to show activity (not sure if that helps or not). i noticed that the TPS shifted from .63 to .65 running, i tried to pull the throttle cable back to not have slack and it caused a ramp up in RPM so i loosened it and kind of let it find a happier place then i tightened it back down.

Also, another major symptom the car doesnt want to hot start. After it gets warm and the car is shut off, it doesnt seem to want to start up anymore.

 

[steve]

So many acronyms ...idle position sensor? (Total guess ) where is this one located and how can i adjust it?

IPS = Idle Position Switch. On a 2G it's inside of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and is how you adjust the 2G TPS correctly. On a 1G it's on the Throttle Body and serves two functions, sets the limit to how far the butterfly will close and tells the ECU that it is closed.

 

[Misterflipster]

IPS = Idle Position Switch. On a 2G it's inside of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and is how you adjust the 2G TPS correctly. On a 1G it's on the Throttle Body and serves two functions, sets the limit to how far the butterfly will close and tells the ECU that it is closed.

So for that you said the adjustment on it is wrong...are you referring to it being at .63v? Or is there another way to adjust it since its in the TPS?

Your big issue is you dont have a working o2 sensor. Your tuner only set your wideband up 50% of the way so the car has no working wideband. Simulate wideband needs to be enabled with the correct switchpoint voltage inputted. Coasting fuel needs to come down to 50-100. Report back preferably with a running log.

So for simulating wideband what should i put the switch point to? And the startup options?

How do i edit coasting fuel?

 

[steve]

So for that you said the adjustment on it is wrong...are you referring to it being at .63v? Or is there another way to adjust it since its in the TPS?

You can start by unchecking Disable idle switch while moving and Simulate idle switch from TPS. If it starts surging you'll know the IPS is closed, the next question would then be where does it open and the question all along of where is the extran air coming from.

Coasting FC offset is on the same screen.

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The FSM (Factory Service Manual) describes the 2G procedure and it's been posted a few times.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-adjust-the-throttle-position-sensor-tps.324431/

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tps-adjustment.457984/

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-adjust-a-2g-tps.170432/

Your wideband O2 manual should provide the data for the switch point voltage (the voltage for Lambda = 1)

 

[Misterflipster]

You can start by unchecking Enable idle switch operation and Disable idle switch while moving

Coasting FC offset is on the same screen.

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The FSM (Factory Service Manual) describes the 2G procedure and it's been posted a few times.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-adjust-the-throttle-position-sensor-tps.324431/

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tps-adjustment.457984/

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-adjust-a-2g-tps.170432/

Your wideband O2 manual should provide the data for the switch point voltage (the voltage for Lambda = 1)

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Okay, should i try to start it then?

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Also, while im looking and comparing should i change this to Baro too? Or keep on MDP?

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And the MAF type says speed density, but it doesnt have the plummed in sensor (unless thats what the tuner did (see earlier in thread) otherwise i dont think its on SD yet???

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[Vegas Smith]

ready for start up

 

[Misterflipster]

ready for start up

no change in idle

 

[Justin DuBois]

Dunno why you have these set - Normally turn these off.

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What input wire is the Omni 4bar 2g MAP (manifold absolute pressure - sensor) connected to? MDP (stock - manifold differential pressure - sensor input)

Do you have a Wideband? What sensor input wire is it connected to? Front or Rear o2 - sensor input?

Do you have a IAT (Intake Air Temperator - sensor) What sensor input wire is it connected to?

What size injectors are you running? -44% global fuel seems to indicate you have some large injectors.

It is amazing that you can get it running at all without the normal stuff configured.

 

[Misterflipster]

Dunno why you have these set - Normally turn these off.

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The fans have a switch on the dashboard to toggle the fans off and on. Which could* be the reason for the activate fans. Open loop mode, i have no idea, i can turn it off....and for the other questions it has a wideband, only has one O2 which is front, it is set to front. The Omni 4 bar is set to MDP yes, which i was wondering if i switch that to Baro like how some of u guys have it set??? The IAT i need to double check on.

 

[Justin DuBois]

The fans have a switch on the dashboard to toggle the fans off and on. Which could* be the reason for the activate fans. Open loop mode, i have no idea, i can turn it off....and for the other questions it has a wideband, only has one O2 which is front, it is set to front. The Omni 4 bar is set to MDP yes, which i was wondering if i switch that to Baro like how some of u guys have it set??? The IAT i need to double check on.

Make these changes:

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And disable force open loop. Look at the Wideband and what does it say when idling? When the narrow band simulator is working correctly, the WideBand should be holding close to 14.7 - when you have the ECU configured correctly, you will see the wideband data in the logs in the Front 02 channel.

 

[Misterflipster]

Make these changes:

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Will do that now

 

[Justin DuBois]

Will do that now

I don't think you have an IAT installed - based on what I see in the pictures. - Normally people weld a bung into the elbo connected to the front of the throttle body. Won't matter much for idle, but it is VERY important for the speed density maps to work reliably at predicting the air density.

 

[Misterflipster]

Make these changes:

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And disable force open loop. Look at the Wideband and what does it say when idling? When the narrow band simulator is working correctly, the WideBand should be holding close to 14.7 - when you have the ECU configured correctly, you will see the wideband data in the logs in the Front 02 channel.

So yes, the Front O2 data shows .08v and my AEM A/F rstio gauge shows roughly 12 ish

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Leave the Omni on mdp. It is hooked to the original plug. We have baro because we are using wires from the maf connector instead.


-Daniel

 

[Misterflipster]

I don't think you have an IAT installed - based on what I see in the pictures. - Normally people weld a bung into the elbo connected to the front of the throttle body. Won't matter much for idle, but it is VERY important for the speed density maps to work reliably at predicting the air density.

Ohhh yes, that part. Thats what i meant when i said earlier it was 100% on SD that part needs to be plummed in....ive just been trying to tackle this idle issue first and try to get it operalble to a degree. Actually the car is warming up now and A/F ratio is holding steady at 10

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Kind off topic but what all did your tuner do? I understand it was cut short due to your idle problem but almost everything these guys have been helping you do the tuner could of and should of did before even starting the car really.

-Daniel

 

[Misterflipster]

Ohhh yes, that part. Thats what i meant when i said earlier it was 100% on SD that part needs to be plummed in....ive just been trying to tackle this idle issue first and try to get it operalble to a degree.

It wasnt**** 100% on SD i still need to plumb in whatever sensor goes into piping

Kind off topic but what all did your tuner do? I understand it was cut short due to your idle problem but almost everything these guys have been helping you do the tuner could of and should of did before even starting the car really.

-Daniel

Here's the invoice, they do use these forums as well from time to time so i want to keep it pretty neutral. They are also the only tuners in town who can tune these cars so im trying to stay on their good side .

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[Justin DuBois]

You need this:

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And this:

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It wasnt**** 100% on SD i still need to plumb in whatever sensor goes into pi

Heres the invoice, they do use these forums as well from time to time so i want to keep it pretty neutral. They are also the only tuners in town who can tune these cars so im trying to stay on their good side .

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Ouch - you should get your money back for that sensor install - That was a hack job.