ffwd cams any updates?

[BlackHalo]

Saw a old thread on these and there wasnt many posts seeing if anymore people have these, they are regrinds but for the price and a one year warrenty they seem pretty solid.. let me know your results with them etc..

Thanks.

 

[canucatchdis]

I too am interested in the results. Also if anyone has used them in a stroker.

 

[enid84]

I'm joining the bandwagon too....as well i'm very interested.

 

[turboglenn]

Bump... I've been thinking about these cams lately. I sold my HKS 272's to a friend a long time ago ( along with the head, fuel rail, regulator and my nitrous kit among other things to offset teh extra shortblock i had to buy ) And i'd rather not spend another 700 on cams alone this time around if there's comparible options that are much cheaper ( 1/2 price in this case)

How are these cams holding up for anyone that's run them for a while now? and has anyone done back to back dyno pulls before and after installing them?

I'll be going with the 264/272 replicas for a little more streetability and better spool times than the HKS's offered with dual 272's

Also, this shimming i'm hearing about, what's up wth that? I knwo what it does, but is it reliable? or has anyone lost a rocker or anything because of it.


Also, did anyone who put them in have to collapse their lifters before installing them back in after raising the stock cams off them?

When i rebuilt my first head with the HK$ cams, all the lifters extended fully and if i had not collapsed them there would have been valve piston contact and no one wants that!

 

[Boostdclips99]

I've heard nothing but good things about these cams. I myself would like to hear more...anyone else out there?

 

[92awddsm]

Bump... I've been thinking about these cams lately. I sold my HKS 272's to a friend a long time ago ( along with the head, fuel rail, regulator and my nitrous kit among other things to offset teh extra shortblock i had to buy ) And i'd rather not spend another 700 on cams alone this time around if there's comparible options that are much cheaper ( 1/2 price in this case)

How are these cams holding up for anyone that's run them for a while now? and has anyone done back to back dyno pulls before and after installing them?

I'll be going with the 264/272 replicas for a little more streetability and better spool times than the HKS's offered with dual 272's

Also, this shimming i'm hearing about, what's up wth that? I knwo what it does, but is it reliable? or has anyone lost a rocker or anything because of it.


Also, did anyone who put them in have to collapse their lifters before installing them back in after raising the stock cams off them?

When i rebuilt my first head with the HK$ cams, all the lifters extended fully and if i had not collapsed them there would have been valve piston contact and no one wants that!

Your doing good, dont ruin it by bumping yours or others threads. Actually, dont use the word bump at all unless you are talking about you being bumped or you bumping someone else with your car.

All people are doing with shims is installing them under the springs to get seat pressure up to desirable specs. If you follow the manufacturers installation instructions, you will find that 90% of the time, the springs will need at least a .030" shim to get seat pressure up to par(even with aftermarket springs). It has been done for many decades without any real issues so dont worry about it now.

Lifters need to be bled any time the cams are removed, regardless of what cams are going back in. If you removed and reinstalled the stock cams, you would need to bleed the lifters. This is a given and should be know by anyone that decides to take on the task of disassembling or reassembling the the head.

 

[turboglenn]

Your doing good, dont ruin it by bumping yours or others threads. Actually, dont use the word bump at all unless you are talking about you being bumped or you bumping someone else with your car.

All people are doing with shims is installing them under the springs to get seat pressure up to desirable specs. If you follow the manufacturers installation instructions, you will find that 90% of the time, the springs will need at least a .030" shim to get seat pressure up to par(even with aftermarket springs). It has been done for many decades without any real issues so dont worry about it now.

Lifters need to be bled any time the cams are removed, regardless of what cams are going back in. If you removed and reinstalled the stock cams, you would need to bleed the lifters. This is a given and should be know by anyone that decides to take on the task of disassembling or reassembling the the head.

Sorry to use teh "B" word.. istead of starting a new thread, i searched and tried to get info from one with some history on it.

Also, the reason i asked about the lifters is that i've always had to bleed mine down, even to change a rocker. But, yet i know several people who didn't even know how to bleed them, so they put the cams in and let it sit over night efore starting adn teh cars are still running fine. I was just asking what the mass of people are doing. I also know another "DSM guy" who's not really that great but actually keeps a shop up and running and he says he never bleeds tham, he also let them jsut sit for about 6-8 hours.

Just curious that's all.. But, still my main purpose is to get some wisdom from some one who's actually run these cams for a decent period of time..

promise i won't use teh "b*mp" word again but i may revive a dead post if it's relvant instead of starting a new one if that's better than starting a new one. let me know

 

[firebirdvert305]

I flow 55lbs min w/dks 272's...33psi, t3 sc61...had em when they first came out, been holding up great ever since.

 

[nrml]

I'm using these 272/272 regrinds and love them. No problems. (granted my cores were solid)

Call up Darren@FFWD, he's the man.