2G Fender rolling

[RidleyNoah]

Just got my new XXR 530 wheels installed today and noticed I have a little rub in the rear. Only happens over a good size bump or hard turning. I can see that it only rubs at the very top of the arc of the fender and only the very inside edge of the lip.
I was debating picking up a fender roller off ebay ($50.00) and doing it myself or having a body shop do it. Any ideas what a body shop might charge just to do the rear?
And for you guys that have rolled your own, any tips?

 

[jls_frog]

I had a local shop do my rears in my 2g for $125

 

[RidleyNoah]

I had a local shop do my rears in my 2g for $125

Thanks, I'll call around tomorrow. I'm curious about guys that have done their own too.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

If an ebay fender roller only costs $50, then look elsewhere. If you going to DIY this job, I would consider two methods.

1: Eastwood Fender Roller or equivalent. This is a pretty decent tool I have used, and have had great results. For the cost mentioned in another post, you could own this tool in the link provided below. Loan it out to friends for a nominal fee, and the tool will pay for itself pretty quick. Additionally, you could check Craigslist for someone that loans one out. There is a local around me that rents his out.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-fender-roller-w-instruction.html

2: Tied/true wooden baseball bat method.
This method takes a little more time, but I have also used this method before using the fender roller. I believe I even had to do some touch up with the bat after using the fender roller tool. For this job, you need a wooden baseball bat, painter's tape, heat gun/hair dryer.
Then:

• Lift side you are working on so bat barely fits between the fender and wheel.
• Using the heat gun/hair dryer, heat the working area just to warm it to prevent damaging the paint. Putting some painter's tape around the working portion of the bat also helps.
• Tuck the bat in so that part of it rests against the lip inside the fender. Also be sure you can apply pressure to the handle pushing the upper portion of the bat against the fender lip.
• Slowly move around the area of the fender lip you want to roll. You will also want to periodically reapply some heat to the paint.
• Once you have the lip slightly tucked, you may have to slightly raise the work area again to roll it in further if needed. Keep doing this until your desired roll is achieved.

*Use the bat method at your own risk.*​

 

[RidleyNoah]

T

If an ebay fender roller only costs $50, then look elsewhere. If you going to DIY this job, I would consider two methods.

1: Eastwood Fender Roller or equivalent. This is a pretty decent tool I have used, and have had great results. For the cost mentioned in another post, you could own this tool in the link provided below. Loan it out to friends for a nominal fee, and the tool will pay for itself pretty quick.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-fender-roller-w-instruction.html

2: Tied/true wooden baseball bat method.
This method takes a little more time, but I have also used this method before using the fender roller. I believe I even had to do some touch up with the bat after using the fender roller tool. For this job, you need a wooden baseball bat, painter's tape, heat gun/hair dryer.
Then:

• Lift side you are working on so bat barely fits between the fender and wheel.
• Using the heat gun/hair dryer, heat the working area just to warm it to prevent damaging the paint. Putting some painter's tape around the working portion of the bat also helps.
• Tuck the bat in so that part of it rests against the lip inside the fender. Also be sure you can apply pressure to the handle pushing the upper portion of the bat against the fender lip.
• Slowly move around the area of the fender lip you want to roll. You will also want to periodically reapply some heat to the paint.
• Once you have the lip slightly tucked, you may have to slightly raise the work area again to roll it in further if needed. Keep doing this until your desired roll is achieved.

*Use the bat method at your own risk.*​

The ebay rollers work exactly like the Eastwood, don't know how well they work though. I checked out some youtube videos on the bat method and was thinking about trying that. Can I just do the section that is rubbing or do I need to do the entire length in order for the lip to bend properly. I don't need much. It's just the extreme inside edge that rubs, bat wouldn't be on any painted surface if that matters.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

I would only roll the fender lip enough to prevent any rub. Find a good spot with either turns or bumps to test if you need additional clearance. I am not necessarily condoning driving like an idiot on public roads.

 

[RidleyNoah]

I would only roll the fender lip enough to prevent any rub. Find a good spot with either turns or bumps to test if you need additional clearance. I am not necessarily condoning driving like an idiot on public roads.

Thanks. I think I'll try the bat method since I just need a little bit on such a small section. Do you think I'll still need to heat the paint? I'm sure I can find a deserted road to test it out on.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

It is up to you, but the heat helps to prevent the paint from cracking to some degree.

 

[RidleyNoah]

It is up to you, but the heat helps to prevent the paint from cracking to some degree.

Yeah, probably shouldn't take a chance without it.

 

[oneslowwdsm]

I would seriously consider finding a shop to do it if you have no experience. I've seen some botched rear fenders from people not knowing what they are doing. Once they lose their shape, good luck getting them back to normal. I found someone on my local forum to come out to my house and do them for me, he charged $150 for all 4 corners.

 

[RidleyNoah]

I would seriously consider finding a shop to do it if you have no experience. I've seen some botched rear fenders from people not knowing what they are doing. Once they lose their shape, good luck getting them back to normal. I found someone on my local forum to come out to my house and do them for me, he charged $150 for all 4 corners.

I hear ya. Since I need so little done I think I'm going to give it a try. I'll just go real slow and easy and not force anything. If I don't see that I'm getting any results and don't feel comfortable proceeding I'll stop at that point and let an expert do it. But, I think I'll stop by a local body shop first and see what kind of price they give me.

 

[miliman13]

The eBay ones absolutely Do Not Work at all!!!!!
Trust me!!!
The rear is tuff!!!

I destroyed the thing and made zero progress!

The bat thing is a fail.
Only a rubber mallet made it work for me.
Use a heat gun cause your will chip paint.

Or pay a shop" or for the same price buy a quality item.


Or add rubber spacers on the rear.

 

[RidleyNoah]

The eBay ones absolutely Do Not Work at all!!!!!
Trust me!!!
The rear is tuff!!!

I destroyed the thing and made zero progress!

The bat thing is a fail.
Only a rubber mallet made it work for me.
Use a heat gun cause your will chip paint.

Or pay a shop" or for the same price buy a quality item.


Or add rubber spacers on the rear.

There's a body shop real close to me, I'm going to stop by there and see what they quote me.
The reason I want to go the diy way is that I probably only need a quarter of an inch and about a six inch section. Not sure if I feel comfortable beating on it with a rubber mallet though.

 

[Zmann42087]

I did the rears on my own car and it turned out fine. I rented an Eastwood fender roller from a local guy for $20. Just make sure to adequately warm the paint with a heat gun and take your time. All you want to do is roll the inner lip found on the rears. I don't see a need for doing the fronts personally.

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[RidleyNoah]

I did the rears on my own car and it turned out fine. I rented an Eastwood fender roller from a local guy for $20. Just make sure to adequately warm the paint with a heat gun and take your time. All you want to do is roll the inner lip found on the rears. I don't see a need for doing the fronts personally.

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Yeah, my fronts are fine. I'm glad I already have a heat gun and in digital thermometer. I read you should heat the paint to between 130-140 degrees.

 

[PlanZero]

If it's only the inner lip take a pair of channel locks or vice grips and start from one side and just bend it upwards, then tap with a hammer and block of wood. Take your time. I smear some silicone on the bent lip afterwards to prevent rust. Ive done it three times and never came close to marring the paint on the outside. Much quicker and easier than a bat or roller IMO.

 

[RidleyNoah]

If it's only the inner lip take a pair of channel locks or vice grips and start from one side and just bend it upwards, then tap with a hammer and block of wood. Take your time. I smear some silicone on the bent lip afterwards to prevent rust. Ive done it three times and never came close to marring the paint on the outside. Much quicker and easier than a bat or roller IMO.

Yeah, it is just the edge of the inner lip, won't take much. Did you heat the paint first?

 

[PlanZero]

Nope, didn't see a reason to since I wasn't stressing the outer edge of the wheel well, as you would with a roller or bat.

Also, some people cut a few strategic snips along the lip before bending. I never did.

 

[RidleyNoah]

Nope, didn't see a reason to since I wasn't stressing the outer edge of the wheel well, as you would with a roller or bat

Makes sense. Also, you can feel and see what you're doing a lot easier by doing it that way (if that makes sense).

 

[PlanZero]

Yeah, I originally planned to actually "roll" them the first time I did it but it was when I still parked outside and it was winter, I just put 8" winter wheels on and they rubbed. I think I got the idea from someone on here. Once you bend them up it creates an almost hairline crack in the original undercoating, hence the reason I smeared it with black silicone to keep salt and moisture out.

 

[RidleyNoah]

I'm in So. Cal. No salt (good) and not a lot of moisture (not so good, we could use the rain).

 

[ceedawg]

If it's only the inner lip take a pair of channel locks or vice grips and start from one side and just bend it upwards, then tap with a hammer and block of wood. Take your time. I smear some silicone on the bent lip afterwards to prevent rust. Ive done it three times and never came close to marring the paint on the outside. Much quicker and easier than a bat or roller IMO.

Gonna try this today thanks

 

[RidleyNoah]

Gonna try this today thanks

I just got mine done. Only took about 15 minutes per wheel. No rubbing at all now. Like PlanZero said, you ll get some minor cracking in the undercoating. I'm going to do some minor sanding and then put some black silicone on it just like he recommended. You'll never notice it was touched. By the way, you'll need a short pair of vise grips in order keep from hitting the inside of the fender well. I used a 4" pair and they worked perfect.

 

[ceedawg]

Thanks for the advice. As far as the cracking of the undercoating is concerned Im going to buy a can of undercoating spray from Autozone or Pepboys. Im glad it worked for you ,I am hoping my 245-45-17s clear with these RPF1 40 offsets. Wish these had a 40 profile instead of 45. I do have 5mm spacers. Thank God I dont have to wait for a fender roller. Good stuff man.

 

[RidleyNoah]

Thanks for the advice. As far as the cracking of the undercoating is concerned Im going to buy a can of undercoating spray from Autozone or Pepboys. Im glad it worked for you ,I am hoping my 245-45-17s clear with these RPF1 40 offsets. Wish these had a 40 profile instead of 45. I do have 5mm spacers. Thank God I dont have to wait for a fender roller. Good stuff man.

I've got 235-45-17 with a 35 offset wheel. With your 5mm spacer it's going to put your wheels in about the same position as mine. Why are you using spacers?