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Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

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GreddySpyder

20+ Year Contributor
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Oct 21, 2002
Alabama
I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?
 
I read the haynes manual and its says 18 foot pounds plus 90 degrees, 60 seems like a lot but whatever, ill try and find some moly lube but i still would like to know if there is a torque spec for using oil, and ya she was honed:thumb:
BTW nice color!

my car? Thanks, Im painting it though. Im painting it silver, a lighter silver, aluminum color. So now the paint is sanded off in most places. I like the color too, I just dont know what color I really want. I hope I dont miss that color.

974g63 is right do the 3 step torquing.
 
haha ya its the same color as mine:thumb: when i redo my paint i think ill keep it but add some small metalic to it IDK. but ya I'll do the 3 step torque sequence but i just wanna know what the torque would be with oil, i dont have any ARP moly stuff left over from my last build and i dont want to wait to get some. I can have my car running by tomorrow night if i know what to torque the main studs to with oil.
 
I think you should just torque it to 60 and use antiseize. I have some arp lube that I may or may not need, but i am away from home this week, but if you need it bad extremepsi has it for 2 dollar plus 7 shipping I think.

btw, sweet I love the color but my car needs a new paint job. I know Ill probably miss the color, I think the color is fairly rare.
 
i just bought a motor from foreign engines and i swapped everything over i noticed that the crank is diff on the new motor than the old the old motor the crank is flat on the flywheel side and on the new motor it has a weird ring lip that the flywheel cant slide over to bolt flush.... any ideas? do i need a jdm flywheel or can it be removes? any help i would be greatful thanks by the way it is a 6 bolt
 
ok i just bought a new knock sensor for my 91 gst. i was wondering what the torque specs for the knock sensor are? i've look al over this site and seen many differnt people saying differnt things. i've read people say 17 ft/lbs, then more than that, then less then that. I've seen people say hand tight :confused: but i dont think thats right...
 
I heard people say 17, 5, 7, and 14-17 lbs. I've torque mine a little more than hand tight and I've also had it torqued a little more than that. It made no difference. But, when I went too tight it showed knock when I revved the engine. Currently, it's just a little more than hand tight.
 
Locate the detonation (knock) sensor on the firewall side of the block, above the starter.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the sensor and remove the sensor connector from the bracket.
Using a suitable socket, remove the Detonation (Knock) Sensor from the block.
Install in reverse order making sure to torque sensor to specification. If not torqued to specification engine control can be affected. Torque: 20 - 25 Nm (14 - 18 ft.lbs)


From alldata
 
Does this have the correct bolts on it?


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Putting a head back on my engine that I changed the head gasket on. Using stock rod bolts, whats the torque spec? Anyone know going by ft. lb?
thanks in advance
 
for ARP studs its 85-90 for stock studs (which shoudl NEVER be reused its around 65. But with the stock studs you need to buy brand new ones becuase they are a bolt that by design stretches, there is a specific method of torqueing them.

Here's what AllData says:
1. When installing the cylinder head bolts, check that the shank length of each bolt meets the limit. If the limit is exceeded, replace the bolt. Limit: Maximum 99.4 mm (3.91 inches)
2. Apply engine oil to the threaded portions of bolts and to the washers.
3. According to the tightening sequence, tighten the bolts to the specified torque 78 Nm (58 ft. lbs.) using special tool (MB991654).
4. Loosen bolts completely.
5. Retighten the loosened bolts to 20 Nm (14.5 ft. lbs.) in the specified tightening sequence.
6. Make a paint mark across each bolt head and cylinder head.
7. Give a 90°turn to the bolts in the specified tightening sequence.
8. Give another 90°turn to the bolts and make sure that the paint mark on the head of each bolt and that on the cylinder head are on the same straight line. CAUTION:

1. If the bolt is turned less than 90°, proper fastening performance may not be expected. When tightening the bolt, therefore, be careful to give a sufficient turn to it.
2. If the bolt is over tightened, loosen the bolt completely and then retighten it by repeating the tightening procedure from step (1).
 
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