Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

[GreddySpyder]

I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?

 

[DSM_PWR]

If i remember correctly about 5-8 ft lbs but i just tighten them abit over hand tight about the same as your valve cover...

 

[snowborder714]

4-6 ft lbs

And make sure you put the short bolts in the correct holes.

 

[JoEgsX90]

Ok thanks guys but, there all the same size bolts im using sbr oil pan with stainless stell alan key bolts... There all same size all short.. That should be fine right?

 

[snowborder714]

Yep. Just when you install the bolts that are supposed to be short, look on the front case and see if they protrude. They shouldn't though.

 

[Redfwdsm]

Ok thanks guys but, there all the same size bolts im using sbr oil pan with stainless stell alan key bolts... There all same size all short.. That should be fine right?

that kit is a pain in the butt to put on with the hex head key but they look great and work i have the same kit on mine

 

[JoEgsX90]

Ok guys just put them in,, actually wasn't bad at all.. But one more torque spec if you guys have it, Manifold to turbo the (4) bolts. I also just torqued down my oil cooler thats behind my filter, had to replace the gasket on it just want to make sure i had it torqued to 31lbs. Thanks again guys

 

[snowborder714]

40-47 ft lbs with 2 washers on each bolt.

 

[soldave]

Have read through this entire thread but just want to confirm something to make sure I'll do it right. OK, so am reusing some ARP headstuds when my head goes back on next week. Am I right in thinking this is the procedure I should follow.

1. Clean out all bolt holes, making sure there is no oil or anything in there
2. Place head onto block, using dowel pins to keep it in place
3. Put washers onto head over stud holes
4. Cover threads that will touch the nut and washer surfaces with ARP moly lube
5. Insert & hand-tighten headstuds
6. Tighten middle stud to 30ft/lbs
7. Repeat with all studs going in the usual sequence
8. Without loosening studs, torque middle stud to 60ft/lbs
9. Repeat with all studs going in the usual sequence
10. Without loosening studs, torque middle stud to 90ft/lbs
11. After warming up the engine, allow to cool overnight and check torque is still at 90ft/lbs

I think that's everything but if someone could let me know if I've missed something vital it would be appreciated

 

[pneumo]

I like to cycle the torque 3 times. This is what ARP recomends in their instructions. Tighten to full torque just like you describe, then loosen all studs/nuts in steps just like they were tightened in steps. Make sure to use the loosening sequence, which is reverse of the tightening sequence. Then check the studs with a hex wrench to make sure they didn't unscrew. If they did, tighten them hand tight again. Bring the torque back up again in 3 steps, then loosen again. Bring up to torque a 3rd and final time. This settles any irregularities in the threads and helps stress-relieve all parts. I haven't had any problem with loosening headstuds using this method.

 

[soldave]

I like to cycle the torque 3 times. This is what ARP recomends in their instructions. Tighten to full torque just like you describe, then loosen all studs/nuts in steps just like they were tightened in steps. Make sure to use the loosening sequence, which is reverse of the tightening sequence. Then check the studs with a hex wrench to make sure they didn't unscrew. If they did, tighten them hand tight again. Bring the torque back up again in 3 steps, then loosen again. Bring up to torque a 3rd and final time. This settles any irregularities in the threads and helps stress-relieve all parts. I haven't had any problem with loosening headstuds using this method.

Thanks for that. Much appreciated.

 

[tsunari]

Good point pneumo, many people either don't know that tid-bit or tend to gloss over it. As for a final torque spec, I thought with moly lube was supposed to be 75 ft*lb and 115 ft*lb with 30W oil. I will double check my build sheet when I get home and update this post, otherwise sounds like your proceedure is good to go! Do be sure to use a calibrated torque wrench, otherwise all of the good proceedure in the world won't help you from using improper torque values.

**EDIT** Torque specs I have are 75 ft*lbs with Moly lube and 115 ft*lbs with 30W oil for the head studs

 

[soldave]

This could help quite a bit:

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[olddsmer]

I called ARP and they told me on the 4G63 to do 80 lbs with their lube and 120 lbs with 30 Wt oil.

Regards
Olddsmer

 

[99gst_racer]

Anybody got a solid torque spec for OEM 6-bolt head bolts using moly lube? Or does anybody know the yield strength or tensile strength for them?

The manual only give specs using motor oil (which I don't prefer to use), and I have no previous experience with factory 6-bolt head bolts.

 

[tsunari]

Anybody got a solid torque spec for OEM 6-bolt head bolts using moly lube? Or does anybody know the yield strength or tensile strength for them?

The manual only give specs using motor oil (which I don't prefer to use), and I have no previous experience with factory 6-bolt head bolts.

Looks like the FSM specifies 80ft lbs and this is from ARPs tech section:

The lubricant used is the main factor in determining friction, and therefore, the torque for a particular installation. Motor oil is a commonly used lubricant because of it’s ready availability. If less friction is desired in order to install the fasteners with less torque, special low friction lubricants are available. With special lubes, the required torque can be reduced as much as 20 to 30 percent. It is important to keep in mind that the reverse is also true. If the torque value has been specified for a particular fastener on the basis of low friction lube, installing the fastener with motor oil will result in insufficient preload; the torque has to be increased to compensate for the extra friction caused by the motor oil.

So personally, I would either use 30W for lubricant, or use moly and decrease the torque spec to 56-64ft lbs.

 

[buhay6]

I know this is an old thread'n all but I cant seem to find the torque spec for the trans mount to frame for my 1g... stupid haynes!

 

[pneumo]

I know this is an old thread'n all but I cant seem to find the torque spec for the trans mount to frame for my 1g... stupid haynes!

38 ft-lbs

 

[buhay6]

38 ft-lbs

Awesome thank you very much friend. I've found every other torque spec not listed in the haynes manual but looked for hours for the tran mount brack one. i can finally write in the last one.