Fastener Torque Values [Merged 3-9] value tightness torques specs specifications

[GreddySpyder]

I changed my leaky oil pan gasket not long ago and it is still leaking. I used red rtv as the gasket and ran a nice continuous bead around the whole pan making a circle around each bolt hole. I think the two mistakes I made were not waiting for the RTV to dry before putting the pan back on, and I think I tightened the bolts too much ( I ended up breaking one of them).
I'm gonna buy a torque wrench and make sure they are right this time... how much torque do the pan bolts require? How long should I let the RTV dry this time before putting the pan back on?

 

[ZachM31]

(This is for a 1999 4G63) I was wondering if anyone knew the torque spec for the large center bolt (24mm I think?) that holds the oil cooler onto the bracket housing? And also the 4 bolts that mount to bracket onto the engine itself? Any help will be appreciated! Also, is it a good idea to put some threadlocker on that large bolt? I have read a few articles where that comes loose and I don't want to be that guy....thanks!

 

[XilArAtiNG]

25-35 I belive

 

[spyderturbo007]

It's in your shop manual. I don't remember off the top of my head. I wouldn't bother with the thread locker, since at some point in time, you might have to remove the bracket to replace the o-ring. I typically check the torque on that spline every couple times I do an oil change.

 

[BoostdDSM]

i also need to tighten mine down to specs but i cant figure out what size socket i need for the stud... would anyone by chance know exactly what size it is so i can go buy a socket for it?

 

[tsi1991awd]

I asked about installing the FFFB and they said that torque spec on that is 11-16ft/lb...so, I'd assume you could do that for the oil bracket. Not sure on the oil cooler though, since I'm taking mine out.

 

[spyderturbo007]

Ah, crap its been so long. It's something in the 22, 23 or 24mm deepwell range. Let me see if I can grab the socket when I get home, unless I left it at my parents house.

 

[z24frank]

If you are talking about the ARP head "studs", then you can safely torque them to 90 ft lbs.. That's what mine are. The studs should be hand tightened into the block. Only the nuts should be torqued.

Does everyone else agree with this process?I was just doing mine tonight and the last stud got stuck so I used a socket wrench with a allen wrench head and started tightening it down and the head where the socket attached just stripped why did this happen?

 

[99gst_racer]

Does everyone else agree with this process?I was just doing mine tonight and the last stud got stuck so I used a socket wrench with a allen wrench head and started tightening it down and the head where the socket attached just stripped why did this happen?

Wait... So, what happened?

 

[z24frank]

When using my allen wrench to tighten down my head stud the allen wrench parts of the stud just stripped now I cant get a allen wrenck on it and the stud is stuck half way in and half way out!

 

[99gst_racer]

You should be able to thread those studs into the block with your fingers. If you can't, then the threads are not clean and clear of debris. You shouldn't be wrenching on them enough to strip that allen keyway.

 

[interex]

I've not seen anyone strip out the allen key way on an ARP stud before. Must not have read the documentation where it says to finger tighten them into the block. To have buggered up the head of the bolt you had to have been using some massive torque, and possibly a allen wrench a size too small.

 

[flawlessTSI]

i did 100 ft lbs with a stock hg on my car. no problems my 2 cents.

 

[interex]

but that isnt on the stud itself, that's on the nut.

 

[z24frank]

I thought I had had cleared them out,but wasnt sure what else to use to get the old gunk out!I think I f-d this up.

 

[interex]

You can use a degreaser and pipe/automotive brushes, like pictured below...

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[z24frank]

Yeah thats what I should have done.A lil late now but I know what to do for sure next time!Thanks for the help all.

 

[sliver]

Wondering if someone has a technique to fit this big ass torque wrench to properly torque the nuts to spec. IM is still in the car so lmk ###.

 

[throwedgsx]

Good luck with that! Just go with a 3/8" drive and a socket and tighten them so they're nice and snug. Start at the middle bottom nut and work your way out alternating top and bottom

Oh, and i do mine in a three step process just so they're all evenly tightened

 

[throwedgsx]

, acutally....i was in at my local O'Reilly's Auto Parts today and was talking to my friend who works there about that. He said Goodwrench tools makes one but it's special order for them and it costs like $50. It's a 3/8" drive. I want it but that's a lot of buck

 

[Defiant]

Holy crap. They're just manifold nuts. They don't get "torqued". You tighten them, and check them again in a week.

 

[sliver]

I've been on a torque spree lately. Manual lists the specs so I'd like to do it right the first time.

 

[PIMking]

I know the feelings my car is a loose bolt machine. I have just replaced the injector insulators and it still leaks there. So Im going to go out today and tighten them down.

 

[need2boostpsi]

Holy crap. They're just manifold nuts. They don't get "torqued". You tighten them, and check them again in a week.

agreed there not subjected to extreme heat cycling like the exhaust studs, they shouldn't move at all. if your that worried about them put a dab of loctight on the bolts and snug them up with a 12mm wrench.

 

[garage16]

Just wanted to know what most people using ARP head studs torque them down too. Im using a cometic head gasket as well, also does anyone spary the gasket with copper spary before the install of a new gaskets?


Thanks

 

[DSMDemond]

65- 72 for stock.Check arps web site for thier numbers.....Also this has been covered.Do a thread search before you post.