Failed BE316G after 4k miles....

[97gst_spyder]

So I bought a rebuilt MHI BE316G about a year and a half ago. When I got it, no shaftplay at all, perfect condition.

This turbo sat in the box it was shipped in for about a year and a few months.

Pulled it out to finally install the turbo on my car, still perfect.

Installed with a 1g OEM feed line, and stock drain with the flex section cutout and used pushlock hose.'

Primed Oil system with MPI relay pulled, verified oil was going through turbo via oil drain.

Drove the car throught a clutch break in, and had some shaftplay (~.75mm side to side.)

Changed the oil checked for metal, nothing.

Just checked it last night after another 3500 miles. Almost 2mm of in and out, and enough side to side to start touching the compressor housing....

I only used Mobile 5000 10w30. Changed it 3 times now, 1250miles.

Only boosted to 14psi. 75% highway cruising.

Any ideas??

Thanks!!

 

[T is for TURBO]

How's your oil pressure?
Is it smokeing?

Also, who rebuilt it?

 

[phunny]

How do you have your oil drain line setup?

 

[97gst_spyder]

How's your oil pressure?
Is it smokeing?

Also, who rebuilt it?

Never above 100 at WOT at 6k+, never below 15 at idle.

We think it is, but cannot isolate if its valve stem seals or turbo. But is random and very little.

I'm not going to name the person, but he knows what hes doing.

How do you have your oil drain line setup?

Stock 1g line with the accordion piece cut and a put a piece of Pushlock hose over it.

 

[JusMX141]

That much in/out play does not occur by itself in such little mileage- you have some sort of oiling issue. Many times this comes as a restriction to the oil supply hole in the thrust plate from foreign material in the oil.

You'd be surprised just how clean you *think* your oil is, but the turbo's internals will tell the true tale.


Also, Mobil 5000 is just a standard conventional cheap-ass oil that contains no ZDDP and gives no shear protection at all. If your internals prove to be clean there's a good chance the oil is what caused the thrust failure.

If you're not using a racing oil or another type of synthetic performance oil, you should be using a diesel oil in your car.

For more info on how well conventional oils perform in our vehicles:

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

 

[97gst_spyder]

Oh, ok. I read something about Mobile 1 possibly causing issues on evom. But I thought lower standard mobile would be fine.

Damnit...

 

[FLASH1970]

Eesh. I usually use Mobil one in my car...

 

[kenuwine4g63]

Cant go wrong with royal purple

 

[Doubleot]

Cant go wrong with royal purple

Yeah I love over paying for oil too

I've always ran Valvoline synthetic blend and I've never had an issue. (Knocks on wood)

Sucks to hear though man.

 

[kenuwine4g63]

Yeah I love over paying for oil too

I've always ran Valvoline synthetic blend and I've never had an issue. (Knocks on wood)

Sucks to hear though man.

..its very expensive, but its damn good..IMO the best

 

[phunny]

Exactly what Justin said. You guess wouldn't believe some of the rigging I see with the oil feed lines. Like "I want steel braided lines" even if the are 4 feet long...

 

[97gst_spyder]

We ended up swapping the turbine wheels from the 16g into the 14b, no shaft play or smoke at all!!! The Brad Penn oil seems to be working 100% better, no more lifter tick!!

 

[BigBeans]

For more info on how well conventional oils perform in our vehicles:

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

Most companies freak out when you push their products beyond ratings, call it abuse and void the warranty. Below is why i will continue to be an FP customer. They might be pricey, but their stuff is well engineered and it works.

"We often observe our customers operating our turbochargers beyond their rated power outputs and max shaft speeds. We like this, and this is why our customers are the baddest MFr’s in the world" -Forced Performance

 

[v8killer]

I run Shell Rotella T 15-w40 Diesel oil !

 

[Xeiros]

Yeah, this thread needs to not turn into a "I use XXX brand of oil, it's the best" thread. Oil threads are horrible threads because you get nowhere. Everyone has a favorite brand, and a brand they love to shit on. You'll get 30 different responses as to what to use, with 30 more people telling you not to use what the other people used.

When it breaks down to it, oil is pretty much oil these days. You want to run a synthetic blend if you've got a performance car because as jusMX stated, if it's conventional oil, it's likely going to sheer down and then you've got very little wear protection going on.

 

[JusMX141]

Without getting too far off-topic, I'll add this.

Diesel oils are great because they're a high detergent formula which helps keep clean engines clean (this should NOT be used to aid in cleaning a dirty engine because deposits falling into the pan can clog the oil pump screen) and they are also higher in zinc than conventional gasoline oils.

Keep in mind that there is not a production turbocharged gasoline engine made that comes from the factory making 30+psi without recommending a performance oil of some type- yet many diesel engines make boost pressures at or above 30psi for hundreds of thousands of miles using oil designed for such abuse.

Sure diesels generally do run cooler than gasoline engines which is better for the oil, but they are much dirtier than a gasser because the extremely high compression leads to additional blowby of combustion gases into the crankcase. This is hard on the oil's film strength because you're basically adding a certain amount of diesel fuel to the oil over a period of time, causing the oil to break down.

 

[97ebaygst]

I guess you learn something new everyday. I always swore by Mobil 1 synthetic. I hate being blindly wrong about things like that. So does anyone have any good suggestions on any reading material on oil?

 

[97gst_spyder]

Brad penn was the highest on the zinc list. That's why I use it now.