2G Factory keyless entry help

[Furiyous]

Hey everyone! Been a long time follower on the threads here. First time coming around to posting.

I have finally gotten around to working on my car and fixing some minor things here and there. I have a 1997 GS-T Spyder. Has about 102k original miles. I just recently changed the spark plugs and both coils as well as cleaned the injectors due to a minor engine skip and shes running well now. Top is working well but it does have a leak on both sides above the rear quarter windows, no leak from the front pillars though. Top likely needs to be replaced as it has shrunk over the years.

My main concern, I have had an issue that I would like help with getting to pinpoint and troubleshoot.

For some reason, I cannot get the keyless entry to program on the car. I bought an aftermarket replacement remote with the correct FCC ID, Frequency, etc as the original one was lost. I put the car into programming mode but it will not program the fob no matter what I do. I am jumping pins 1 and 4 (since 97 uses the jumper method and not the switch on the black box method), and when I turn the key to Acc and back off, the car door locks only (from what I have read on threads here, it should unlock AND lock, for me it ONLY locks). When I remove the jumper, the door does not lock or unlock, so I know the jumper is correctly placed. After the doors lock, I press any of the buttons on the fob multiple times and no response from the car at all.

I do see the green security light that comes on if I turn the key in the driver door and lock the door from the outside. Both doors lock and unlock from the inside driver door lock switch. If I turn the drivers side door lock with the key from the outside, it only locks and unlocks the driver door and not the passenger door (not sure its supposed to do that anyways). Unless it is supposed to, maybe this is the issue and how would I trouble shoot this? I have read there is a relay behind the radio, would this be a cause?

I would like some information if anyone has any ideas. I am trying to keep the car as original as possible. Everything on the car is factory minus the radio. I have gone through just about every thread for keyless entry and realize that even if one single part of the lock system is not working correctly that programming may not work. I was considering getting a used OEM keyless entry remote off ebay as a next step in case this fob is the issue, but I feel maybe theres a deeper problem and want to see if I need to check anything else.

Things I have checked:
- Anti-Theft Fuse is present in the drivers foot well fuse box
- Security Light comes on when locked from exterior with key
- New remote has fresh batteries and LED lights up
- All door, hood and trunk switches are working and closed when attempting

I am planning to do the valve cover and gaskets tomorrow on my day off and figured I would tinker with the keyless entry again if anyone has any ideas to share.

Here is a picture for anyone that wants to see the car. I plan to do redo the paint at some point as the front and rear bumper are starting to fade a bit and of course get the top replaced for the leaks. I don't drive it much and stays in the garage most of the time.

Thank you for anyone that may have some input/information.

Also, If anyone knows where to get some wheel speed sensors, I cannot find them anywhere (they appear to be discontinued).

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[2GbTalonGuy]

Is the module present behind the drivers side rear interior panel?

 

[Furiyous]

Is the module present behind the drivers side rear interior panel?

That is a great question. I haven’t checked but my assumption is that it’s there since I have never messed with it and the keyless entry worked previously before losing the remote.

I’m heading to go work on the car now so I’ll take that panel off and check. Is it under the rear side speaker in the panel where the seat belt goes into?

 

[chrysler kid]

So the first thing to verify is that all of the door locks function properly

When you get in the car with the doors closed do both doors lock and unlock fully? I have had cars where the driver and passengers side will both lock, but when you hit unlock the passengers side will not unlock itself.

If the module senses something not working properly it will not let you proceed for programming.

The module is behind the driver’s rear panel by the speaker and next to the seat belt detent area.

The most common issue for the keyless entry programming is that the sensor on the back of the lock cylinder on the inside of the door handles is misaligned or the lock cylinder in the door handle is damaged.

So, verify that you can lock and unlock both doors with the switch in the car. Verify that the hood closed and trunk closed sensors are working (the light isn’t on to show the doors are open on the dash)
Verify that the key cylinders in the door handles on the driver and passengers side are not damaged and working

 

[Furiyous]

Thanks for the reply.

So when I sit in the car, both doors closed, I press the lock and unlock button on the door and both doors will lock and unlock normally. I can see the lock levers moving on both door handles and the doors themselves do lock and unlock.

So I did notice when I have the hood opened, the open door light does not come on. When I open the doors or the trunk it will light up.

Is the light supposed to come on when the hood is open?

I attached photos so you can see.

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[MindBlowin03]

I had a 98 GST Spyder and the module itself went bad. I replaced it and everything worked fine after that.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

My door open light does not come on when the hood is up either, and I was able to program the remote just fine last summer.

 

[Furiyous]

Thanks for the replies fellas. I’m leaning towards there might be an issue with the module as @MindBlowin03 mentioned.

I’m curious if maybe it got damaged from the water leaking in from above it where the quarter windows are. We shall see I guess once I get it out of the rear panel out. Just scared to break the clips when removing it

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

IIRC the keyless entry module for spyders is behind the rear seat back. I have been having trouble with mine too. Replaced it cuz i couldnt get it to go into program mode, new one didnt work either. Havent messed with it since.

 

[Furiyous]

The module appears to be ok and I don’t see any damage to it. I guess I can try to replace it and see what happens. I’ll try to order an OEM fob and the module itself for testing purposes. If replacing those two doesn’t work, don’t know what else to look for at this point.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

The module appears to be ok and I don’t see any damage to it. I guess I can try to replace it and see what happens. I’ll try to order an OEM fob and the module itself for testing purposes. If replacing those two doesn’t work, don’t know what else to look for at this point.

was yours behind the back seat or the driver rear side panel?

 

[Furiyous]

Mine was behind the back seat. I looked under the side panel first and all I saw was the speaker and the (I think) motor for the top? And I was about to reply and say I don’t see a module until you mentioned it was behind the rear seat back on a spyder. I took the bolts out for the rear seat and saw it there.

Let me ask you @b00zt3d spyd3r , what does your FCC ID say on your module? I just noticed mine says

GQ43VT8R

And the new remote ID I was sent shows


GQ43VT6T

So I feel like I was sent the wrong remote.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Mine was behind the back seat. I looked under the side panel first and all I saw was the speaker and the (I think) motor for the top? And I was about to reply and say I don’t see a module until you mentioned it was behind the rear seat back on a spyder. I took the bolts out for the rear seat and saw it there.

Let me ask you @b00zt3d spyd3r , what does your FCC ID say on your module? I just noticed mine says

GQ43VT8R

And the new remote ID I was sent shows


GQ43VT6T

So I feel like I was sent the wrong remote.

I cant remember off the top of my head ill have to look when i get some time to take back seat back out or find the extra one. I couldnt get into program mode at all with original or replacement and stopped messing with it. that was like two years ago at least

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

FWIW, I did a quick search for the keyless module on eBay and found one out of a 99 gs coupe. It appears to have the same FCC ID as your module, so I don’t think that the one you have is incorrect for the car.

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[MindBlowin03]

GQ43VT6T should be the correct FCC ID.

 

[Furiyous]

Ah ok. Well then I guess it is the correct fob they sent me.

In any case, I went ahead and ordered a keyless entry module and an OEM fob and will test to see if either one resolves the issue. Will keep you guys posted. If anyone has any other ideas also I’m all ears.

 

[chrysler kid]

I have only seen the hood sensor be a problem if it has been damaged or unplugged. The hood sensor never shows a light, but if you lock the car with the windows down and reach in and pop the hood the alarm will go off. So just make sure it’s not damaged and is plugged in

Are the key cylinders damaged in the door handles? Do they sit flush in the key holes?

Programming keyless entry remote

About 3 months ago the batteries in my keyless entry fob died and I finally got around to buying a new set. After replacing them, the fob no longer unlocked my car so I figured I needed to reprogram the rf box. I followed the guide on programyourremote.com but the system is refusing to enter...

www.dsmtuners.com

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[Furiyous]

I have only seen the hood sensor be a problem if it has been damaged or unplugged. The hood sensor never shows a light, but if you lock the car with the windows down and reach in and pop the hood the alarm will go off. So just make sure it’s not damaged and is plugged in

Are the key cylinders damaged in the door handles? Do they sit flush in the key holes?

I haven’t tried to open the hood while locked to see if the alarm goes off. The switch inside the hood doesn’t seem damaged and the switch does go up and down when I press it with my finger. I’ll try to see if the alarm goes off though as a test when I go back to work on it on Sunday to ensure it’s working/connected.

The key cylinders all seemed fine to my knowledge. They all sit flush and they turn and unlock the doors without issues on both sides. The only thing I did notice though, is that if I unlock the door on the drivers side with the key, it will not unlock the passenger side (I’m not sure if it’s supppsed to or not). For example I had another car (Chevy Corvette) where if you turn the key twice inside the door lock cylinder from the drivers side, it would lock and unlock both doors from the driver side. It does unlock and lock both doors with the door lock switch inside though.

 

[chrysler kid]

I haven’t tried to open the hood while locked to see if the alarm goes off. The switch inside the hood doesn’t seem damaged and the switch does go up and down when I press it with my finger. I’ll try to see if the alarm goes off though as a test when I go back to work on it on Sunday to ensure it’s working/connected.

The key cylinders all seemed fine to my knowledge. They all sit flush and they turn and unlock the doors without issues on both sides. The only thing I did notice though, is that if I unlock the door on the drivers side with the key, it will not unlock the passenger side (I’m not sure if it’s supppsed to or not). For example I had another car (Chevy Corvette) where if you turn the key twice inside the door lock cylinder from the drivers side, it would lock and unlock both doors from the driver side. It does unlock and lock both doors with the door lock switch inside though.

I don’t think it unlocks the passengers side with the key, but it does lock the passengers side with the key.

Warning if you unlock the passengers side door with a key it will trigger the alarm the next time you open the door. The alarm won’t un arm until you lock the passengers side door with the key.


Here is the diagrams for the system. I’m not sure why, but the glove box light and passenger side sun visor vanity light is mentioned in these diagrams

Vehicles With Keyless Entry System — 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T FWD L4-1997cc 2.0L DOHC Turbo MFI Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T FWD L4-1997cc 2.0L DOHC Turbo MFI.

charm.li

 

[Furiyous]

I don’t think it unlocks the passengers side with the key, but it does lock the passengers side with the key.

Warning if you unlock the passengers side door with a key it will trigger the alarm the next time you open the door. The alarm won’t un arm until you lock the passengers side door with the key.


Here is the diagrams for the system. I’m not sure why, but the glove box light and passenger side sun visor vanity light is mentioned in these diagrams

Vehicles With Keyless Entry System — 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T FWD L4-1997cc 2.0L DOHC Turbo MFI Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T FWD L4-1997cc 2.0L DOHC Turbo MFI.

charm.li

This is great info. Thank you!

I should have the oem fob + the keyless entry module this week, I will test the passenger side with the above info to make sure those functions are working.

The wiring diagram is very helpful. Quite interesting about the vanity and glove box lights. I’ll check to make sure both of those are working just in case the system has that sensitive of a circuit.

 

[Furiyous]

Ok so quick update.

I got the oem fob in the mail today. Still waiting on the keyless entry module.

The OEM fob programs without issue. However it will only lock the car. It won’t unlock it. Alarm went off after I opened the door from the inside until I was able to turn the key in the driver door to turn off the alarm.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

It’s sounding more like something is wrong with the module.

 

[Furiyous]

It’s sounding more like something is wrong with the module.

I agree. The remote itself is working when the unlock button is pressed (red light is illuminating on the remote). Panic button and Lock button both work, just unlock won't work. The aftermarket fob won't program still though.

I feel as though the unlock issue is related to the same reason the car only locks and not lock+unlock when going into programming mode.

the new Keyless Entry Module should be here tomorrow or Saturday, and ill test again and update everyone.

 

[chrysler kid]

Wait, what was the other key fob you were trying to program, was it the red one from my thread? I have used these remotes on 3 different 2g’s for years now

2G - Aftermarket key fob remote

Scrolling for used ones on ebay the other day and these new ones popped up. The stock 2g flimsy rubber button remote has always been terrible to press and respond to the button press, these look like they will be much better.Advertised to be stronger and have better range and fit 95-99...

www.dsmtuners.com

Also the factory key fobs have absolutely garbage button tabs in them. Did you pop apart the fob to make sure the factory key fob button has a black rubber backer nipple that presses the board? I switched from the factory key fob because I had to push the soft flimsy buttons down with my house key to get them to press hard enough for the remote to respond , and eventually the buttons just broke and wouldn’t push the button on the key fob circuit board

If the module doesn’t help fix it I would just recommend going to a car audio place to have them install an aftermarket keyless entry system or just an alarm system. The aftermarket ones have amazing range, you just have to tap the wires for each door above the fuse box in the drivers footwell, which is a pain if you have big hands

 

[Furiyous]

Wait, what was the other key fob you were trying to program, was it the red one from my thread? I have used these remotes on 3 different 2g’s for years now

2G - Aftermarket key fob remote

Scrolling for used ones on ebay the other day and these new ones popped up. The stock 2g flimsy rubber button remote has always been terrible to press and respond to the button press, these look like they will be much better.Advertised to be stronger and have better range and fit 95-99...

www.dsmtuners.com

Also the factory key fobs have absolutely garbage button tabs in them. Did you pop apart the fob to make sure the factory key fob button has a black rubber backer nipple that presses the board? I switched from the factory key fob because I had to push the soft flimsy buttons down with my house key to get them to press hard enough for the remote to respond , and eventually the buttons just broke and wouldn’t push the button on the key fob circuit board

If the module doesn’t help fix it I would just recommend going to a car audio place to have them install an aftermarket keyless entry system or just an alarm system. The aftermarket ones have amazing range, you just have to tap the wires for each door above the fuse box in the drivers footwell, which is a pain if you have big hands

I tried to find that remote before I purchased the one I bought as I had gone through just about every thread in this forum looking for answers, but I could not find the one you shared for sale. The aftermarket one I had ended up purchasing was from here:

https://remotesandkeys.com/products/1997-mitsubishi-eclipse-5560?_pos=1&_fid=90c27df2e&_ss=c

The fob I received from them was the one in the 3rd picture on the page with the green checkmark.

As far as the OEM fob, the light does illuminate when I press the unlock button on it so it appears to be responding to my input. The fob I received is surprisingly in quite good shape (and the keyring is still intact ).

Even during the programming process when you have to press the button on the fob 3 times, I pressed the unlock button 3x to program the OEM fob and accepted the programming which is really strange, just actually doesn't unlock when I press it. Lock and Panic work though. I may consider an aftermarket kit if the keyless entry module doesn't fix it.