2G Factory keyless entry help

[Furiyous]

Hey everyone! Been a long time follower on the threads here. First time coming around to posting.

I have finally gotten around to working on my car and fixing some minor things here and there. I have a 1997 GS-T Spyder. Has about 102k original miles. I just recently changed the spark plugs and both coils as well as cleaned the injectors due to a minor engine skip and shes running well now. Top is working well but it does have a leak on both sides above the rear quarter windows, no leak from the front pillars though. Top likely needs to be replaced as it has shrunk over the years.

My main concern, I have had an issue that I would like help with getting to pinpoint and troubleshoot.

For some reason, I cannot get the keyless entry to program on the car. I bought an aftermarket replacement remote with the correct FCC ID, Frequency, etc as the original one was lost. I put the car into programming mode but it will not program the fob no matter what I do. I am jumping pins 1 and 4 (since 97 uses the jumper method and not the switch on the black box method), and when I turn the key to Acc and back off, the car door locks only (from what I have read on threads here, it should unlock AND lock, for me it ONLY locks). When I remove the jumper, the door does not lock or unlock, so I know the jumper is correctly placed. After the doors lock, I press any of the buttons on the fob multiple times and no response from the car at all.

I do see the green security light that comes on if I turn the key in the driver door and lock the door from the outside. Both doors lock and unlock from the inside driver door lock switch. If I turn the drivers side door lock with the key from the outside, it only locks and unlocks the driver door and not the passenger door (not sure its supposed to do that anyways). Unless it is supposed to, maybe this is the issue and how would I trouble shoot this? I have read there is a relay behind the radio, would this be a cause?

I would like some information if anyone has any ideas. I am trying to keep the car as original as possible. Everything on the car is factory minus the radio. I have gone through just about every thread for keyless entry and realize that even if one single part of the lock system is not working correctly that programming may not work. I was considering getting a used OEM keyless entry remote off ebay as a next step in case this fob is the issue, but I feel maybe theres a deeper problem and want to see if I need to check anything else.

Things I have checked:
- Anti-Theft Fuse is present in the drivers foot well fuse box
- Security Light comes on when locked from exterior with key
- New remote has fresh batteries and LED lights up
- All door, hood and trunk switches are working and closed when attempting

I am planning to do the valve cover and gaskets tomorrow on my day off and figured I would tinker with the keyless entry again if anyone has any ideas to share.

Here is a picture for anyone that wants to see the car. I plan to do redo the paint at some point as the front and rear bumper are starting to fade a bit and of course get the top replaced for the leaks. I don't drive it much and stays in the garage most of the time.

Thank you for anyone that may have some input/information.

Also, If anyone knows where to get some wheel speed sensors, I cannot find them anywhere (they appear to be discontinued).

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[TheRock1209]

I tried to find that remote before I purchased the one I bought as I had gone through just about every thread in this forum looking for answers, but I could not find the one you shared for sale. The aftermarket one I had ended up purchasing was from here:

https://remotesandkeys.com/products/1997-mitsubishi-eclipse-5560?_pos=1&_fid=90c27df2e&_ss=c

The fob I received from them was the one in the 3rd picture on the page with the green checkmark.

As far as the OEM fob, the light does illuminate when I press the unlock button on it so it appears to be responding to my input. The fob I received is surprisingly in quite good shape (and the keyring is still intact ).

Even during the programming process when you have to press the button on the fob 3 times, I pressed the unlock button 3x to program the OEM fob and accepted the programming which is really strange, just actually doesn't unlock when I press it. Lock and Panic work though. I may consider an aftermarket kit if the keyless entry module doesn't fix it.

From what I’ve noticed when it comes to keyless entry on eclipses, especially this scenario, a keyless entry module that has a different FCCID than the remote, will cause it to not pair. I’m having the same issue too. Your keyless entry module is a GQ43VT8R (R means Receiver) and the fob that you bought is a GQ43VT6T (T means Transmitter). Although it seems to work. The last number of the series needs to match together. Meaning, for it to properly pair you either need a GQ43VT8R module like you do now paired with a GQ43VT8T fob, or vise versa. Good luck!

 

[chrysler kid]

I tried to find that remote before I purchased the one I bought as I had gone through just about every thread in this forum looking for answers, but I could not find the one you shared for sale. The aftermarket one I had ended up purchasing was from here:

https://remotesandkeys.com/products/1997-mitsubishi-eclipse-5560?_pos=1&_fid=90c27df2e&_ss=c

The fob I received from them was the one in the 3rd picture on the page with the green checkmark.

As far as the OEM fob, the light does illuminate when I press the unlock button on it so it appears to be responding to my input. The fob I received is surprisingly in quite good shape (and the keyring is still intact ).

Even during the programming process when you have to press the button on the fob 3 times, I pressed the unlock button 3x to program the OEM fob and accepted the programming which is really strange, just actually doesn't unlock when I press it. Lock and Panic work though. I may consider an aftermarket kit if the keyless entry module doesn't fix it.

I dunno man, it’s the first thing that pops up on eBay when you search for it

https://ebay.us/m/FXya8a

 

[Furiyous]

I dunno man, it’s the first thing that pops up on eBay when you search for it

https://ebay.us/m/FXya8a

I think it wasn't showing for me because I had my preference set for US only and that is listed in China.

I just ordered 2 for the hell of it. .

I also got the new Keyless Entry Module in, going to work on it tomorrow and see what happens.

 

[Furiyous]

Installed the new keyless entry module. Same result. Only lock and panic are working.

I think my last ditch effort is going to be trying those aftermarket fobs you suggested @chrysler kid in hopes that the unlock button on this OEM remote is just not working (even though the red LED is lighting up).

I’m wondering if there is a bad wire in the harness for the keyless entry module for the unlock function.

 

[chrysler kid]

Installed the new keyless entry module. Same result. Only lock and panic are working.

I think my last ditch effort is going to be trying those aftermarket fobs you suggested @chrysler kid in hopes that the unlock button on this OEM remote is just not working (even though the red LED is lighting up).

I’m wondering if there is a bad wire in the harness for the keyless entry module for the unlock function.

I ordered another one because my original is pretty melted from trying to paint it white, it’s made of some weird plastic that dissolves when painted

The only other thing I’m seeing in the diagrams is a shared ground with the dome lights and passengers and drivers footwell lights and glove box lights

Did you try popping open the Mitsubishi remote and cleaning the board where the unlock button should press down?

 

[Furiyous]

I ordered another one because my original is pretty melted from trying to paint it white, it’s made of some weird plastic that dissolves when painted

The only other thing I’m seeing in the diagrams is a shared ground with the dome lights and passengers and drivers footwell lights and glove box lights

Did you try popping open the Mitsubishi remote and cleaning the board where the unlock button should press down?

I did do this also and no help. The funny thing is when I program the remote, I used the unlock button to program it. So I know the button is working for sure as it’s receiving signal to the keyless entry to program it.

I looked further and started looking at wiring with a test light yesterday morning.

So when I put my hand on the little square relay that is on the keyless entry module, if I lock the doors I can feel that relay click inside. When I unlock the doors, there is no click feedback from that relay.

When I use a test light to back probe the connections, if I probe the lock wire, it triggers the relay and locks the doors. When I do this to the unlock wire, there is a dim light on my test light (constant dim light) and it triggers the relay (it feels like it’s clicking) but the doors don’t unlock.

I’m starting to wonder if there is a broken wire somewhere along the circuit. I was looking at the wiring diagram and seems quite intricate. There is another relay however (behind the radio or in the driver footwell?) I was wondering if this may be the cause?

I am planning on diving deeper with it when I get back from vacation (heading to NC for a week). I am going to check every wire and see if there is a break or short somewhere along the unlock pathway or that relay behind the radio I guess.

 

[chrysler kid]

With the doors closed and you outside the car, when you hit the lock can you see the security light come up on the dash board? It’s a green light on the cluster

 

[Furiyous]

With the doors closed and you outside the car, when you hit the lock can you see the security light come up on the dash board? It’s a green light on the cluster

Yes it does. You can hear the doors lock and the security light is on. And if you try to open the door without unlocking them first the alarm goes off.

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