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Evo 8 ECU In 2g Works!!

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Yes, I run v7 and I started with the upgrade when it was still v6 then moved up shortly after the final release but I let it brew long enough to so that the new style of definitions came with it. Worked beautifully for me.
 
Yes, I run v7 and I started with the upgrade when it was still v6 then moved up shortly after the final release but I let it brew long enough to so that the new style of definitions came with it. Worked beautifully for me.



Are you running 96530006? If so, would you be able to send me your 96530006 xml, the tephra v7 xml, and your ROM. I just can't figure out why I can't get v7 to work.
 
Are you running 96530006? If so, would you be able to send me your 96530006 xml, the tephra v7 xml, and your ROM. I just can't figure out why I can't get v7 to work.

honestly just run a working v5 until you get a wide band.. thats what im doing my motors worth too much to let it go by numbers that dont truly represent the out come in the case of afrs... i honestly dont drive more than 5-7 psi on my current car with v5 bcuz im just terrified it'll blow from being too lean. LOL. patience is a virtue david. :shhh: .:thumb: happy turkey day 2 all by the way..
 
I'm running v7 and I'm not having any problems at all. All I did was copy all the 2g MAF scaling stuff over from the 2055 eclipse ROM. I adjusted my injector latency values to get me roughly where I needed to be, then fine tuned using the MAF scaling. It runs really well now. My LTFT stay within +/- 3% most of the time.

I do get some stuttering, but I can actually hear my BOV acting funny. I'm not sure if it's the BOV or something else. I had the same problem when running v5.10. It happens at the same boost level every time. It's weird because I can sometimes brake boost, but as soon as I mash the gas, it acts funny. I'm switching from the HKS SSQV to a crushed 1g BOV sometime in the next couple days as long as I can get my friend to weld the flange onto the pipe for me. I'm tired of the HKS sound when recirculated and how it opens under the lightest throttle lift. Until I can get SD installed, the SSQV will stay off my car.
 
Wes I might have use for that SSQV if you're looking to get rid of it then get a new one at a later point. I also have a recirculated Forge bov (fits 1g flange) if you're looking for something like that as a potential trade.
 
Ive ran the 9653 V7 rom since it was in the V6 phase, and im currently using the V7 SD rom. Tuning my VE tables turned out to be a bit trickier than i first though. Oh well im making some slow progress.
 
Just saw on evom that mrfred believes he has found the fix for the jumpy IPWs with SD. Work is going on right now to test that the fix doesn't break anything else and then new patches will be up. You guys will have to let me know how it feels because my car just got put away yesterday.
 
Well, swapping BOVs did nothing. Still flutters weird on acceleration. I used and Ebay Type-S as a test, since I had a properly flanged pipe laying around. I tightened it up and even added a few washers inside to help hold ~23psi. The good news is that the Type-S doesn't compound the problem. The SSQV would open more and more with each flutter until it would completely vent.

This has been an ongoing quirk that I have been dealing with since September. It's just more prominent since I turned the boost back up.

I'll be seeking help on this from the EvoM boards.
Here: http://forums.evolutionm.net/ecuflash/460688-bov-flutter-stutter-under-acceleration.html
 
Post a picture of the engine bay. The one in your gallery doesn't show any of the vac plumbing. The BOV should only open when it sees vacuum, so the issue has to be related to the vacuum plumbing somewhere.

In the current state of vacuum plumbing... -are there any solenoids connected to the manifold, such as the stock BCS or Evap, that could allow IM pressure to bleed off if they malfunctioned or were unintentionally activated?

Have you disabled all emissions equipment with the periphery?

Do you run slightly richer right after or during the flutter?

Have you tried a good old reliable BLT?
 
To fix it, I've tried:

* Boost leak test
* New BOV vacuum line (Tried both as short as can be and much longer than needed.)
* Different vacuum ports on the IM for the BOV line.
* Switched from v5.10 to v7
* Different ignition and fuel maps (stock DSM, stock Evo 8, and slightly tuned)
* Different spark plugs
* New spark plug wires
* Compression tested
* Different BOVs. First was an HKS SSQV. I just put a chinese type-s that I had laying around today.

I have my MAS and injectors dialed in so that my LTFT hover +/- 2%. Right now, they're sitting at: -0.09% and +0.89% for low and mid respective.

The BOV has it's own dedicated line. Nothing teed into it.
I checked all the hoses, they're still attached.
All the vacuum lines were replaced this summer with new ones.

I'm running an spring and ball MBC with a small bleeder hole in it. It has its on boost source on the compressor housing.

The stock BCS is just sitting happily, without any vacuum lines connected.

All the emissions equipment is still hooked up. I thought that it was all disabled through v7 mods, but it seems that it's only the CELs that are disabled. The only thing I could see acting up could be the EGR. I noticed that it's not disabled. I'll try turning that off and will post back later.
 
Try disabling the egr and removing the vac lines that go to it. That might be the cause of your problems.

On another note, Justin i applied Mrfred's patch for IPW The scaling for load transition one not the Maf pulsewidth reset and it completly got rid of the weird cutting out at low rpm cruise (1500-2500rpm) And drives great. I still need to find out why the car drives like crap when cold but my cruise once warm is just as good as my maf.:thumb:
 
...
* Boost leak test
* New BOV vacuum line (Tried both as short as can be and much longer than needed.)
* Different vacuum ports on the IM for the BOV line.
...
* Different BOVs. First was an HKS SSQV. I just put a chinese type-s that I had laying around today.
...

The BOV has it's own dedicated line. Nothing teed into it.
I checked all the hoses, they're still attached.
All the vacuum lines were replaced this summer with new ones.

Is the new vacuum line reinforced or thick walled? I think the problem might be the vac line is collapsing when the throttle closes and you pull high vacuum (like while engine braking going downhill at a moderate engine rpm).

If you still have it, try a thick piece of the stock vac line. You could also test my theory out first by engine braking down a hill, then immediately pulling over without reopening the throttle, then just immediately checking the vac line to the BOV.
 
Is the new vacuum line reinforced or thick walled? I think the problem might be the vac line is collapsing when the throttle closes and you pull high vacuum (like while engine braking going downhill at a moderate engine rpm).

If you still have it, try a thick piece of the stock vac line. You could also test my theory out first by engine braking down a hill, then immediately pulling over without reopening the throttle, then just immediately checking the vac line to the BOV.

It's thick-walled rubber hose, not the silicone type stuff. This happens under boost.

I haven't been able to test disabling the EGR stuff just yet.
 
hey david ive finally experienced what you've been talking about but on my v5.1 umm i looked at the narrow band o2 gauge (i no rice) and only some times when i hit 10 in hg it buck then i ease up and give it a little more juice to get to 10 psi and its fine . but i think its a close loop into open look problem.. i cant wait till i get my wbo2 so i can run f.t open loop. also i was thinking it could be throttle hang related... do you have throttle hang?
 
David, I've finally gotten the time to look at the rom you sent me and I've found at least one major problem with it. Give me a few days and I'll make one up for you that should work pretty well for your car but I'm really busy so it might take me just a bit.

I hate the weeks leading up to finals.

I have your working rom so I should be able to figure things out from there but I'll need to know a few things about your car just so I don't do something that will blow up your car. What are your basic mods, do you use ecu based boost control? Do you want MrFred boost mods? Anything else I need to know?
 
So far all I've looked at is the first few options but it looks like his rom is actually messed up. Some of the values for the Tephramod options are out of range and I'm certain there are other areas that aren't right. I think his rom may be corrupted.
 
Well no luck with my tip in problem, ive added about 12 to all the values in the Asynch_vs_TPSDELTA and i still lean out about 2-3 whole afr's. Gotta work on that a bit more, but on the other hand my VE tables are getting better, and the car drives so nice and my load is pretty close to what i use to have with my maf tune. Another thing ive noticed with the SD is crazy knock during spool up which at times takes the joy from driving. Im making a trip to the track on saturday, so ill post up any noticeable improvements/disadvantages i notice.
 
During spool? Weird, are you sure you didn't just forget to alter your knock sensitivity? What sort of loads are you looking at at around 80kpa 120kpa and 160kpa? I just wonder if your timing is off because you're hitting odd load targets during spoolup.
 
During spool? Weird, are you sure you didn't just forget to alter your knock sensitivity? What sort of loads are you looking at at around 80kpa 120kpa and 160kpa? I just wonder if your timing is off because you're hitting odd load targets during spoolup.

Im using the same sensitivity as with my maf rom, and as for load here is what im seeing

80kpa-60 load
120kpa-95 load
160kpa-130 load

Its off after 160kpa so im adjusting my RPM VE tables to compensate for that but the rest is fairly close.
 
My load targets in those areas are higher. I would suggest trying a bit of race gas for a bit and see if the knock goes away. If it does then either adjust your load targets higher or drop a bit of timing in those areas.

Your mods are similar to mine so I think our load targets shouldn't be too far off from each other although they certainly shouldn't necessarily be the same.
 
Yours might be a bit higher because you should have a decent amount of boost by then, my laggy turbo doesn't give me much around there. Ill try some better gas but i still don't understand since i never had this problem before with my maf.
 
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