1G Equivalent turbo advice

[sakroda]

Hello, I am writing from Turkey.

Last month finally I bought ECMlink for my 90 DSM. I need to upgrade the turbo because I have 560cc and Evo 8 MAF with stock turbo and intercooler that's why I need turbo advice.

First of all I should say I can not find 20G or 16G turbos here because we have only Evo 8-9-10 cars. There are only 7-8 talon cars which we have in Turkey. If you can tell me an equivalent turbo which I can find in Turkey so I will be happy..

 

[curt-s]

You're looking for turbos you can find in Turkey? As in, not ordering from outside the country?
On a DSM flanged manifold, or are you willing to go with something else? If so, you'll probably have to modify the intercooler as you may be getting away from a j-pipe.

 

[We're on Boost]

Hello
I am writing from Turkey. Last month finally I bought ECMlink for my 90 dsm.i need to upgrade the turbo because i have 560cc and evo 8 maf with stock turbo and intercooler that s why I need turbo advice...First of all I should say I can not find 20G or 16G turbo here because we have only evo 8-9-10 cars. There are only 7-8 talon cars which we have in Turkey. if you tell me equivalent turbo which i can find in Turkey so I will be happy..

You should find out for sure what your stock turbo is. Because if it is the same one we got here in the US, you don't need a bigger turbo for 560cc injectors. It would be just about perfect actually.
The stock turbo here was the Mitsubishi 14b turbo. It would overrun the stock 450cc injectors pretty easy once you get a good exhaust system on the car. 560cc would be a good match. 560cc, a bigger fuel pump, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a good exhaust system, and a better intercooler, would be real nice.
But your turbo might be a smaller Garrett or something. You'd need to find out. I don't know what the Europe market 1990's had for a turbo.

 

[sakroda]

You should find out for sure what your stock turbo is. Because if it is the same one we got here in the US, you don't need a bigger turbo for 560cc injectors. It would be just about perfect actually.
The stock turbo here was the Mitsubishi 14b turbo. It would overrun the stock 450cc injectors pretty easy once you get a good exhaust system on the car. 560cc would be a good match. 560cc, a bigger fuel pump, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a good exhaust system, and a better intercooler, would be real nice.
But your turbo might be a smaller Garrett or something. You'd need to find out. I don't know what the Europe market 1990's had for a turbo.

I have 90 Eagle Talon, yes it has 14b turbo. Due to Turkey custom policy I can not bring any item above 30 euro that's why I need to find something in Turkey.

By the way I have Walbro 255 fuel pump but it's noisy I don't why? Fuel pressure is at set on 42 psi. So if my setup is enough for tuning I need to change intercooler and j-pipe with exhaust system?

thanks for response..

 

[We're on Boost]

Walbro 255 should be good. They are noisier than stock but not severe. If you think there is something wrong with it, you could try posting a video with sound of just the pump running (engine off, you would temporarily use the feature in ECMlink "activate fuel pump" on the Misc tab).

42 psi fuel pressure is good if that is with no vacuum going to the fuel pressure regulator. That again you can get pretty close without even disconnecting the vacuum hose to the regulator, by using "activate fuel pump" with the engine off.
Are you still using the stock fuel pressure regulator though?

The stock exhaust system is so restrictive, so that's a big important item. The classic exhaust setup is to get rid of the cat, and use 3 inch diameter piping for the whole system, with mufflers that are straight through rather than having a labyrinth inside. The downpipe can be 2.5 inch diameter where it bolts up to the O2 housing, but then after a few inches it should go up to 3 inch diameter. The stock O2 housing is not terrible so you could keep it if it's not cracked. Same goes for the exhaust manifold. You could keep it if it's not cracked. Pretty common for the exhaust manifold to be cracked if it's the old original one. Anyway the turbo really comes alive with a good large exhaust.

Usually people still use a J-pipe with 14b and 16g turbos. Then if they are going to replace the stock sidemount intercooler with a front mount, they just have to make or get intercooler piping to work with that stuff. Since you will log knock with ECMlink (assuming your knock sensor works) you could run it with the stock sidemount carefully for a while, and adjust the ignition timing a lot lower (less advance, to avoid knock) which you would have to do a little bit even with a better intercooler. The default (stock) timing in your timing tables will be way too much. And you'd limit the boost lower with the stock sidemount. ECMlink has a good boost controller function built into it. With a frontmount intercooler you are safer and can use more ignition timing and more boost.

 

[We're on Boost]

42 psi fuel pressure is good if that is with no vacuum going to the fuel pressure regulator. That again you can get pretty close without even disconnecting the vacuum hose to the regulator, by using "activate fuel pump" with the engine off.

Then when the engine is running at warm idle, you'll have probably 9 or 10 psi of vacuum which should make your fuel pressure about 32 psi instead of 42 psi (with the vacuum hose connected to the FPR like normal).
All the way through the whole range of manifold pressures, from idle vacuum to highest boost, the fuel pressure should track 1:1 with the manifold pressure.

 

[sakroda]

First of all thanks for reply. I have an AEM fuel pressure regulator but when I increase the psi to 60 then the noise is disappearing. I realize that, so should I use stock intercooler or I need get bigger one? I got it about exhaust pipe issue.

 

[We're on Boost]

With the intercooler, you should get a bigger one if you can, but it's not required, you can run it with the stock intercooler. It's just that with the stock intercooler you will have to limit the boost to about 15 or 16 psi most likely, and you will have to reduce your ignition timing numbers by quite a lot in the high LoadFactor parts of the map. LoadFactors over 1. To not have knock.
With a bigger intercooler you can use more of the potential of the turbo - closer to 20 psi of boost and not such restricted timing.

First of all thanks for reply I have aem fuel pressure regulator but when i increase the psi to 60 then noise is disappearing.

Good about the AEM regulator, that should be a good one. I don't know why the noise disappears at higher pressure. But just set the fuel pressure so it is 42 or 43 psi with the vacuum hose either disconnected or just when there is no vacuum in the hose.

 

[sakroda]

you mean I will remove the vacuum line from AFPR and i will set to 42? What should I see when the hose is attached?

 

[We're on Boost]

you mean I will remove the vacuum line from AFPR and i will set to 42?

Yes 42psi is what you should see at idle with the vacuum line removed from the AFPR.
Or it could be 43 psi. The "standard" value is actually 43.5 psi.

What should I see when the hose is attached?

Running at idle with the hose attached you should see about 32 or 33 psi of fuel pressure.
(About 10 psi less than what it was with the hose attached, at idle)

 

[We're on Boost]

Just to verify, your fuel pressure gauge probably looks something like this:
(Marshall CW00100)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

And it would have pipe threads on the back that screw right into a gauge port on your AEM AFPR.

 

[sakroda]

how did i miss that point mine is hose attached 42 psi but it has to o
be on 30-32 around with hose attached..i need to change asap this value.. thank you my friend

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[We're on Boost]

how did i miss that point mine is hose attached 42 psi but it has to o
be on 30-32 around with hose attached..i need to change asap this value.. thank you my friend

Right

From what I can see it looks pretty good in there though. I mean I don't see anything really wrong.
Just for future reference though, if you can figure out how to post your pictures full size, it will be better for looking at details.
You must be using some app that cuts down the number of pixels. These pics are coming through as 625 x 757 pixels.
DSMtuners will post pics up to 2,000 x 2,000 pixels. If you just send your pics full size, DSMtuners will automatically shrink them to 2,000 pixels along the longest edge for posting, and that is the best way to do it when there is a lot of stuff in the view like an engine bay shot usually has. If you don't want them to take up so much page space, you can insert them as a "Thumbnail" instead of a "Full Image".

 

[dwb]

As a side note, make sure whatever base fuel pressure you set, you adjust accordingly in ECMLink. From the factory, a 1g manual is 37psi, 1g auto is 43.5. You can run whatever base psi you want (to a point) as long as you set it in your global fuel adjustment. I assume you've already adjusted the for the 3g MAF and larger injectors.

ecmlink101initialchecks [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

 

[sakroda]

Hello guys i did not get noticed from this post i did not see your response thanks by the way. I did SD setup after we had conversation but i could not rev above 3000 RPM car dies and i don t know why. I think i have huge leak but i did smoke test there is no smoke on the engine maybe smoke test is not the best solution for leaking. I need to change intercooler and pipes. I still have same setup but car is like 100 hp not above 200 i hope i can fix the problem but my O2 sensor is not reading anything. it s stucked at 14.8

 

[diambo4life]

There could be very many things wrong with your setup. Do you still have access to the stock MAF or EVO MAF? Use that as a baseline and get the car to run with it on the stock MAP so that you can eliminate 1000 other things being the issue. Do a compression check. Set your base ignition timing correctly, install new wires and plugs, perform a boost leak test. These are essential basics before tweaking anything.

 

[sakroda]

There could be very many things wrong with your setup. Do you still have access to the stock MAF or EVO MAF? Use that as a baseline and get the car to run with it on the stock MAP so that you can eliminate 1000 other things being the issue. Do a compression check. Set your base ignition timing correctly, install new wires and plugs, perform a boost leak test. These are essential basics before tweaking anything.

last weekend i replaced evo 8 maf sensor and i disabled the SD setup and same issue . i can not rev above 3500-4000. i will do compression check. i did boost leak. it s leaking from TB but it s not huge car holds the air then it realease slowy the air. I am doubting about ecu also before this modification i could not have any issue i don t know what went wrong

You must be logged in to view this image or video.