Engine spitting oil out of exhaust

[BigTyla]

So I've been trying to get this project car I bought a little more than a year ago drivable but when I was ready to finally start driving it I saw that oil was dripping out of my turbo. Knowing that the turbo was new, I suspected there might be a problem with the engine, even though it too (both the head and the shortblock) was new as reported by the previous owner and confirmed by me after investigating the crank bearings. I did a leakdown test and a compression test and both turned out within spec. Upon further investigation, I found oil dripping down the valves and out of the exhaust ports, so I figured something must have been wrong with the valve stems (maybe the wrong ones were installed). Furthermore, I found that one of the cam bearings was scarred up and someone tried to do a half-assed repair on it, so I began my quest to get a used head from the junkyard. I found the one I needed and it looked to be in great shape. I replaced the valve stem seals on my junkyard head and installed it on my motor.

I finally got everything back together and was able to start the car. I had the exact same problem! I took off the turbo and exhaust manifold to investigate again, and sure enough, pitch black oil is all over the exhaust ports and all inside my turbo and exhaust manifold, and the exhaust gaskets for my turbo are coated in oil.

As a sanity check, I took off the valve cover to ensure the valve stems didn't dislodge themselves, and they all look good. Any idea what's going on here? I'm very discouraged and am at my wit's end with this issue.

 

[kleenf4i]

Sounds like the turbo is shot and needs a rebuild. Is there shaft play side to side? Is there oil in the intake/intercooler pipes.?

 

[BigTyla]

The turbo is brand new. No side-to-side play.

When I say there was oil, I mean a LOT of oil. I can take pictures if it would help.

I will add that I have a -4 AN oil line with an inline restrictor feeding the turbo from the head, but just bought a factory feed to make sure it isn't still getting too much pressure. I had to go with the AN line with my old head because the previous owner drilled out the head where the banjo bolts to a much larger size, so I couldn't use the factory line. Now that I have this junkyard head I can use the factory line.

Regardless, I have a hard time believing my turbo would be overpressurized with oil so much that it could fling that much oil upwind and into the exhaust manifold as well as out toward the O2 sensor. That being said, the exhaust port closest to my timing belt is bone dry, and it was that way with the old head too. With the way the exhaust manifold is cast, if the turbo were to fling oil up that path, it would certainly keep that port dry.

 

[jakk220]

did you have the head inspected for any cracks? I would think that could be a possibility.

 

[JusMX141]

Turbo oil drain is obstructed or pinched. Pull the manifold away from the head- if the ports are dry, it's the turbo for sure.

If they're wet, either the valve seals weren't installed properly or you have some serious crankcase pressure issues....which tends to go hand-in-hand with valve seals.

 

[BigTyla]

Turbo oil drain is obstructed or pinched. Pull the manifold away from the head- if the ports are dry, it's the turbo for sure.

If they're wet, either the valve seals weren't installed properly or you have some serious crankcase pressure issues....which tends to go hand-in-hand with valve seals.

I'm using a brand new stock oil drain. The ports in the head are wet. I can literally see oil dripping down the valves on all but the port closest to the head.

I thought maybe the valve stem seals were installed wrong, but how could you possibly do that? I pressed them down on the guides with a socket but not too hard or too soft.

 

[rlacasse1]

If you still have oil in the exhaust ports of the head then you need to take the head to a machine shop and have them rebuild it. Just because you put new VSS on the head doesn't mean it's not cracked somewhere or that there aren't an busted valve guides.

 

[BigTyla]

I'm afraid you might be right. Seems like I took a chance on this and it ended up not working out, so now I have to do it the RIGHT way.

 

[kleenf4i]

you can do an at home leak down test to see in air is passing back into the intake due to a bad head or seals. If so, then it is bad stem seals or cracked head. you get a threaded adapter with a hose and thread it into one cylinder at a time. make sure that the piston for that cylinder is at top dead(the remaining cylinders will still have the plugs in them). if the valve stem seals or seats are bad, when a shot of 100 psi air is applied, the piston wont go down and you will hear the air rush into the top of the valve cover and through the intake mani. do this before taking the hed off. If all four plugs are covered in oil, and smoking like crazy, then likely its bad stem seals. If its just a cyliner, or a couple cylinders, its likely a bad head.

 

[dsmornothing]

Never pressurize the cylinders at top dead center!!!! I have seen some very bad things happen when the piston gets blown to the bottom of the stroke. I pull the cams and do each cylinder at bottom of the stroke.

 

[JusMX141]

I pull the cams and do each cylinder at bottom of the stroke.

+1.

Having the cams removed rules out any chance of the cam or a stuck lifter holding a valve open slightly when doing a leakdown test. It's the only way I'd do it.

 

[kleenf4i]

Never pressurize the cylin derrs at top dead center!!!! I have seen some very bad things happen when the piston gets blown to the bottom of the stroke. I pull the cams and do each cylinder at bottom of the stroke.

I made a bad mistake in not saying do it in increments. There's nothing wrong with doing it at top dead if you know what your doing..I also forgot to say to make sure there's something holding the crank from rotating.it's late.Sorry for the UN clear advise.I've for it this way my whole life.never had an issue.our as stated above.you can do it that way.buy you will have to pull the cam.

 

[BigTyla]

I did a leakdown test on the previous head as stated in the OP but not on this newer one.

Odd that it has been recommended here not to do it at TDC. Everywhere I've read specifically states that this is the way it should be done, and I have done multiple leakdown tests this way.

 

[kleenf4i]

I did a leakdown test on the previous head as stated in the OP but not on this newer one.

Odd that it has been recommended here not to do it at TDC. Everywhere I've read specifically states that this is the way it should be done, and I have done multiple leakdown tests this way.

This is the only way I've ever done it.never had an issue.I guess to each they're own.I'm going to continue to do it at tdc.

 

[boost97gst]

Valve seals.

 

[BigTyla]

I used Felpro valve stem seals. They came in my head gasket kit that I bought from Advance Auto. Was that a bad idea?

I just can't believe I installed them incorrectly. Seems rather straightforward. Just push them on firmly with a socket.

 

[BogusSVO]

The valve stem seals can be cocked on the guide and would open the seal some for oil to flow thu.

Also were the valve guides checked for wear?

If the guide is wore as the valve moves it can side load a seal and allow the oil to pass.

 

[YZFR1]

I had the exact same issue you described, all ports wet except the one closest to the timing belt. It ended up beign from excessive pcv system pressure. Happened right after i changed my valve cover for a different one and didn't realize that what looked like a pcv valve on it was actually a straight blow-thru fitting which in turn distorted all the stem seals

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[BigTyla]

The valve stem seals can be cocked on the guide and would open the seal some for oil to flow thu.

Also were the valve guides checked for wear?

If the guide is wore as the valve moves it can side load a seal and allow the oil to pass.

Good point. That said, I have run this engine for a total of about five minutes.

I checked the valve guides visually. I did not measure them (if that's even possible - I'm not an engine guru).

I had the exact same issue you described, all ports wet except the one closest to the timing belt. It ended up beign from excessive pcv system pressure. Happened right after i changed my valve cover for a different one and didn't realize that what looked like a pcv valve on it was actually a straight blow-thru fitting which in turn distorted all the stem seals

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Holy crap. That looks EXACTLY like my head and exhaust manifold. I checked the PCV valve before I put it back on though and it appeared to operate as it should. I just blew on it to make sure the valve was working. Maybe I should get a new one and see since they are so cheap.