exhaust spitting oil/fuel/black gunk?

[Subie_Tech_Intl]

Here's the deal.. I bought my 2G Talon TSi AWD used about 5 moths ago. I've had to replace and repair sooooo much stuff just to keep it running. Money is super tight these days and being new in Guam, trying to land a job is ridiculously difficult. Yesterday, while looking for some stuff in the back of my car(engine was running) I noticed that the air hitting my leg from my exhaust was cool. I put my hand in front of the tailpipe to make sure I wasn't trippin'. When I looked at my hand I saw that it was sprayed with black gunk. It didn't smell like gas nor did it smell like oil, but it was slippery and oily. The more I revved the more it sprays. I've been told by the previous owner that the a/f gauge isn't accurate but that it runs rich.. then I was told by a shop that it runs lean. Since purchasing the car I've replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil packs, repaired the exhaust(chopped and hacked custom exhaust.. no cat), crank sensor, clutch master and slave, engine/trans prothane kit and new tires (china brand..all thats available in guam unless you want to be ripped off). The car is a 1998 Eagle Talon TSi AWD.. when I asked a shop about the issue they just told me that the car is old and should be junked because Eagle is the low-end cheap version of Mitsubishi

 

[Dsmkauai]

98 talon junk!! Low end cheap version!!! Lol that's funny and so not true!! Sounds like your turbo oil seal might be blown. Check for shaft play in the turbo. Also could be blow by or bad valve stem seals. If there is like black sot kinda stuff it could be from a rich condition, what was added to the car that might cause this? Bad o2 sensor?

 

[WES_393]

The exhaust being cold isn't out of the ordinary, nor is the black soot your getting. Some of the byproducts of combustion are carbon and water. When the water condenses in the exhaust pipes it takes some carbon with it and comes out black. Here in Colorado it gets super cold, so we barely crack the garage door while warming up the cars. All of our cars leave a black spatter on the garage door, even my freshly rebuilt Talon.

It could point to a rich condition or light oil consumption, but your A/F gauge is probably the last thing you'd want to consult on that matter.

As for a Talon being a cheap version of the Mitsu, they've obviously never popped the hood on one. The Chrysler made parts are the bumpers and side skirts. The MSRP of the 1g Talon's was actually higher than that of the Eclipse, so the term "cheap" doesn't really stick.

 

[Subie_Tech_Intl]

It's been a while since I've posted here. So here's my update:
my car's been giving me a ton of weird issues and as unreliable as it's been, II decided to rebuild the engine. I've never rebuilt an engine before. I'm honestly just rebuilding my engine to make my car reliable and a touch more lively.

Here's a list of parts i have purchased:

ACL thrust washers
ARP head studs
ACL Race standard main rod bearings
Supertech valve stem seals
Supertech standard size valves
Supertech S1 valve springs
Supertech Ti retainers
Supertech bronze valve guides
Manley lightweight pistons
Eagle H-beam rods
Gates Racing belts (timing component kit and serpentines)

..as well as a complete gasket/seal set, water pump and oil pump. Does this sound about right? Am I missing anything? Can I just go back to install Cometic gaskets, 272 cams, adjustable cam gears, lightweight pulley set, Fluidamper harmonic balancer, EvoIII turbo (and supporting mods), FP DSM Race Manifold and ECM Link v3? I ask this because I dont quite have the money to drop on all of this at one time and this is my only DD. Having to rely on friends and family for transportation until my car is fixed. In what order would you suggest I acquire/install these parts?.. in other words, im trying to build a 300~400hp DD that's capable and competitive on at AutoX/Road Courses.. what build path would you advise for a tight budget (when i spend on parts i like to know that, though the part was pricey, they'll last and perform a good long while)

 

[nickxf250]

Pull the turbo off and check the oil seals, may be time to rebuild the turbo.

 

[DSMnoobsause]

It's been a while since I've posted here. So here's my update:
my car's been giving me a ton of weird issues and as unreliable as it's been, II decided to rebuild the engine. I've never rebuilt an engine before. I'm honestly just rebuilding my engine to make my car reliable and a touch more lively.

Here's a list of parts i have purchased:

ACL thrust washers
ARP head studs
ACL Race standard main rod bearings
Supertech valve stem seals
Supertech standard size valves
Supertech S1 valve springs
Supertech Ti retainers
Supertech bronze valve guides
Manley lightweight pistons
Eagle H-beam rods
Gates Racing belts (timing component kit and serpentines)

..as well as a complete gasket/seal set, water pump and oil pump. Does this sound about right? Am I missing anything? Can I just go back to install Cometic gaskets, 272 cams, adjustable cam gears, lightweight pulley set, Fluidamper harmonic balancer, EvoIII turbo (and supporting mods), FP DSM Race Manifold and ECM Link v3? I ask this because I dont quite have the money to drop on all of this at one time and this is my only DD. Having to rely on friends and family for transportation until my car is fixed. In what order would you suggest I acquire/install these parts?.. in other words, im trying to build a 300~400hp DD that's capable and competitive on at AutoX/Road Courses.. what build path would you advise for a tight budget (when i spend on parts i like to know that, though the part was pricey, they'll last and perform a good long while)

Stock rebuild with ARP head studs for 300-400hp. Everything else is a waist of time and money for your goals. You just need a good tune.

 

[Subie_Tech_Intl]

so im just going to end up with a really expensive stock rebuild with no gain whatsoever ?
what build path would you advise?... worth while mods and in what order?

 

[BogusSVO]

The gain you will have is you will be able to support more power.

With the 6 bolt you have, 400 will not be an issue.

The parts for the head (for the most part) will get you 500+)

Read this thread.\

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/469880-500-whp-dream.html

I am just going to quote myself, so I do not have to type it all over again.

Yes a 6 bolt will take for 500+ hp, most of that will be in the tune. But not knowing every detail in your short block, it will be a risk at that level.

Personally, I will suggest that any stock rod engine, 4g63 or otherwise not go over 400-450 without a rod upgrade. But my thoughts are also if you want 500hp build to take 700hp or more.

Next thing is whatever machine shop you use, make sure they have at least a basic understanding of the 4g engine. Better yet, use a shop that is truly familiar with the 4g, and knows the tips and tricks of it.

Now I can understand you have a few bucks to throw around and you want to get your parts pile stared.

Pistons should not be on the top of the list.

Let the machine shop clean, check, and rough bore the block first
Then get your pistons.
Now take the pistons to the machine shop, Now they can hone the block and set the PTW.

The reason is simple for this, Say you order .50mm/.020 over pistons. Now you take the block and pistons to the machine shop.

Now you find out your block is already .50mm/.020 over but needs to go 1mm/.040 over.

Now you have to ship the pistons back, (if you can) or get another block.

I am going to stay on the short block and the machine work I would suggest.

Clean block
Deck block
Flip the front BS bearings
Bore/hone as needed ( torque plate preferred)
Check main bores (More so if ARP main studs are selected)
*Align hone mains as needed
New Freeze plugs
Block oil mod

Crank work
Remove the oil galley balls
clean crank
Polish/grind as needed

Weight match pistons within .2g
Weight match rods within .2g
Spin balance the full rotating assembly
(H-Balancer,Tbelt gear, BS gear or spacer, crank, rods, pistons, flywheel and pressure plate)

Make sure you use a OE stubby shaft or cut down rear shaft.

Front case cleaned and inspected. Move to straight cut oil pump gears (preferred)

Good bearings, King, ACL, Clevite

This will give you a solid short block that you can pound on

 

[Subie_Tech_Intl]

haha.. im such a noob to dsm. i was unaware that i have a 6bolt.. i thought that since i have a 2gb it was a 7bolt.

 

[EVO9_Inside]

I thought since the OP had a 98 that it would be a 7 bolt block as well?

and you dont put stock compression internals back in and gain power, you turn up boost, or advance your timing safely increasing your power more than n/a internals could ever hope to gain. head work increases your horsepower by enabling you to rev higher, which mathmatically, means more power as long as the power band remains positive.

 

[Subie_Tech_Intl]

for now, im just building the motor to be tougher.. tough enough to beat on daily.. until the day i can afford the new turbo and all that fun stuff. after my engine is rebuilt, i plan on starting work on my trans, suspension and elimination all the little rust spots before they get worse.

 

[EVO9_Inside]

do yourself the favor, either build it the way you want it now, saving up while this motor dies. or do a stock rebuild and build a block on the side, doing two halfway builds it just gonna cost you more in the long run.

 

[evoredy]

do yourself the favor, either build it the way you want it now, saving up while this motor dies. or do a stock rebuild and build a block on the side, doing two halfway builds it just gonna cost you more in the long run.

These are good words. Make sure you got .5/.020 over pistons because the worst case scenario for your black soot at idle is melted/scuffed/ruined pistons and rings. Take the spark plugs out and get/borrow/con someone into using a bore-scope and look at the tops of the pistons. Make sure you don't see any melting or missing chunks. If that is the case, you are consuming a lot of oil and slowly machining your cylinder bores for the worse. Gently turn the motor clockwise at the harmonic balancer and inspect the walls one-by-one if you can. My 95 GSX with 80K of hard miles still had visible and even hone marks.

If all seems ok (because you'll never be 100% without pulling the motor apart), you can verify the turbo, PCV, A/F mixture, ETC. You can actually do all of this in really any order as you please.

A compression check *may not help to identify melted pistons because the oil in there actually provides a good seal like a wet-compression test. But do one anyways.

Good luck man and you have some nice parts on that list. If you could, I would inspect and then baby it and get a 100% list going and then go to town when the parts bucket and funding is available for a full build. Check your oil often.