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Ebay XTD stage 3 clutch and flywheel

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dale187

10+ Year Contributor
292
0
Jun 28, 2008
Dover, Delaware
Well it's time for a clutch now something more meetier than the stock one. For a while i have alwys used a stock clutch. Well after my front mount and tranny install i went back to the track and was amazed the power the front mount made me and that it was just too much for stock clutches anymore.. I launched at 5250 and the clutched slipped all the way through 3rd and i ran a 13.50. So i'm thinking i should be running 13.10s and ###### making like 270 to the wheels. Crazy thing is when i get on my car from a 1st ger roll it never slips.. Only after i launch. But that sounds right like the clutch is heating up and getting soft and then slipping. But anyways i want a nice heavy duty clutch with still a decently soft peddle and i heard that they are pretty nice. I used one in my turbo civic and it held fine. Just wanted to know how they run in these cars. Let me know guys. Thanks!
 
my stage 4 xtd clutch just came in the mail today... it looks like good quality... ill be putting it in tomorrow :D
 
I've got a xtd stage 4 that im not using if anyones interested in buying it. Pm me.

The PP is not a stock painted PP. But the stage 1,2,3 are. Also herd that the stage 1,2,3 xtd were not that great but the stage 4 was supposed to be pretty good.
 
I've got a xtd stage 4 that im not using if anyones interested in buying it. Pm me.

The PP is not a stock painted PP. But the stage 1,2,3 are. Also herd that the stage 1,2,3 xtd were not that great but the stage 4 was supposed to be pretty good.

I just did a trans for a guy who had an act 2600 with an act unsprung 6 puck. The splines were completly stripped from the disk. I almost bought an act disk. I'm glad i went with the xtd.
 
I see that you guys talk a LOT about clutches and your opinions about them. It's actually all correct. Nobody is wrong, but you need to consider this...

Clutches are made to be trouble-free no matter whether it's supplied by (I don't say Made by because almost all the sellers are not real manufacturers) ACT, Exedy, Sachs, F1 Racing, XTR, XTD, Centerforce, Fidanza, etc...

All clutch components are tested prior to releasing the product to the warehouses so the rate of error/defect is very low (about 1 in 10,000~30,000 components).

The exact same clutch is said to be very good by someone, whereas for some people, it's said to be a piece of junk/crap. Why? It all depends on the driving style and the car itself.

For some cars or for some drivers, a full face disc clutch might be better off whereas the same disc might be too soft for racy drivers. Same with the puck style discs. The puck style discs could be VERY good for racy drivers who abuse it but the same clutch can be a burden to some who don't like chatter or harshness.

Also, depending on the driving style, sprung or solid can make the same difference. Also, stronger pressure plate or regular pressure plate could cause the same problems.

So, it's kind of not so meaningful to ask or say "in general" about a brand clutch or a type of clutches. It all depends on what kind of driver and car you drive. (It's like I like Spaghettis but for some people it's too sour or spicy or something).

Anyway, it's good to share opinions but let's end with "opinions" only rather than that becoming a "fact". ;-)
 
I just put in a XTD stage 4 clutch with a freshly rebuilt Tans and clutch pedal assembly. The car wont go into gear with the engine running, I have adjusted the master rod multiple times and the clutch fork is getting good movement(fork sits in the middle with clutch not pushed in, and goes all the way to the passanger side with it pushed in). Now could this be a defective clutch? or something else?
 
You want a OEM throwout bearing beacuse they have a plastic inner piece where as the others have metal ones(excluding ACT). Metal ones cause the trans spline to wear out after a while and will have the clutch disk spinning around on the spine, never seen it happen but thats the theory.
 
You want a OEM throwout bearing beacuse they have a plastic inner piece where as the others have metal ones(excluding ACT). Metal ones cause the trans spline to wear out after a while and will have the clutch disk spinning around on the spine, never seen it happen but thats the theory.

Has a brand new OEM TOB also, I am going to tear it apart sometime and see whats going on:hmm:
 
make sure the transmission is bolted tight, i redid mine 3 times and never figured out the problem because on the third try it worked. How are you adjusting the rod.
 
Ok well I took the trans out again, it seems that the clutch disc does not slide onto the input shaft splines very easy, it sort of binds up on them and doesnt slide on it all the way. Could this cause the clutch to not disengage? It went all the way on when I put the trans on, I had to tighten the bell housing bolts to pull the trans in all the way, since it would "slide" all the way on like it should.
 
Ok well I took the trans out again, it seems that the clutch disc does not slide onto the input shaft splines very easy, it sort of binds up on them and doesnt slide on it all the way. Could this cause the clutch to not disengage? It went all the way on when I put the trans on, I had to tighten the bell housing bolts to pull the trans in all the way, since it would "slide" all the way on like it should.

This thread is a month old, but I had this same exact problem with a Fidanza clutch on my old 91 AWD. The disc wouldn't slide onto the input shaft easily at all. Pretty much had to force it on....ended up having to file the splines on the disc so much that it would've probably stripped it out in no time if we used it.

It fit on a couple other input shafts laying around and another tranny...didn't fit on mine for whatever reason. But to answer the question, if the disc will not move FREELY and with EASE on the input shaft, then YES, it will not disengage.
 
anyone running a stage4 on a FWD 2g? currently in a build and planning on putting down 350+ whp when im finished with everything. Not sure if i want to go with the unsprung disc or not... And how are there flywheels? i can pick up a 8lb fidanza for around 180 shipped
 
i used a stage 4 on my previous dsm which was a 90 gst fully built on e85 and evolll 16g @ 32-30 psi and it held fine, never dyno the car but was in the 120-124 traps..now the stock clutch on my 91 awd is going out and im gonna order a stage 4 here soon
 
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