ECMlink DSMLink/WB is crazy.

[MY1GDSM]

Obviously anyone that Has Link should be able to go to that an download it.
But, Really it should attached here. so it's hosted here that way anyone can take a look...

Also, does anyone know if their is a way to a attach .Eda and .Ecm files here?

 

[gofer]

MY1GDSM Where did you come up with the WB switch point voltage? I'm looking at his logs and it appears its switching around 1.66v at idle, I'm just wondering if you might have seen something I didn't?

I've been meaning to tell Chris about the .eda/.ecm files not being able to upload to the forum but I keep forgetting.

 

[MY1GDSM]

MY1GDSM Where did you come up with the WB switch point voltage? I'm looking at his logs and it appears its switching around 1.66v at idle, I'm just wondering if you might have seen something I didn't?

I tend to not to trust the AEM white papers but, That is what is listed as being 14.68 in them...

HERE

 

[snowborder714]

Also, does anyone know if their is a way to a attach .Eda and .Ecm files here?

I'll send Chris an e-mail to request he add those to the list of allowed attachments. Until then, you can change the file extension to some support file (.doc, .pdf, etc.) and upload. Then just tell the end user to change them after they download them.

 

[gofer]

Yea, those white papers which should never be trusted! If you select a good chunk of that 2nd idle log and average the values showing RawAEMWBGauge its right at 1.66v which is its actual switch point. You've got to average the values in between the throttle blip though because that will throw off the 14.7:1 switch point voltage.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I'll send Chris an e-mail to request he add those to the list of allowed attachments. Until then, you can change the file extension to some support file (.doc, .pdf, etc.) and upload. Then just tell the end user to change them after they download them.

I thought that I had seen that their was a way too, just couldn't recall how... Thanks

 

[MY1GDSM]

Yea, those white papers which should never be trusted! If you select a good chunk of that 2nd idle log and average the values showing RawAEMWBGauge its right at 1.66v which is its actual switch point. You've got to average the values in between the throttle blip though because that will throw off the 14.7:1 switch point voltage.

That's odd if you goto 99.567 seconds in the second log an look at the Front o2 Vs the wideband
Its reading 2.29 volts Vs 14.6:1 AFR

I'm not seeing RawAEMWBGauge?

 

[gofer]

... you're right, the 14.7:1 AFR being logged is showing 2.33v. I guess now we need to have him determine whether or not the gauge AFR being displayed is the same as the Wideband AFR being logged.

Maybe the white paper can be trusted! My UEGO's switch point is over 3v, a little bit OFF from what AEM claims.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Yeah that would be a good Idea,
Probably would be easiest if he unplugged his o2 since the AEM W/b's default to 14.7 when you do.

It would be amazing if the white papers where actually right for once

That would be 16:1 in his log(or the white paper) Good thing you run e85 Are you a 100% sure you have a 30-4100? You don't have a 30-5130 do you? the analog one? because it's listed as having a switching point close to that HERE as it's a 0.5v to 4.5v Sensor not 0-5v like the other, I guess there is quite a few other ones out there. That coupled with any kind of bad ground choice can cause some problems. I'm sure not all are from that thought...

 

[snowborder714]

I thought that I had seen that their was a way too, just couldn't recall how... Thanks

You can now upload those files as Chris has added them to the list.

 

[MY1GDSM]

You can now upload those files as Chris has added them to the list.

Sweet that is awesome, I'm sure more then a few people will be happy

OP If you would like load these two Attached files... It's a little off from what you are doing
But I feel like it would be a good starting point to work from

 

[snowborder714]

I would zero out timing in the .ecm file so he's only adjusting timing from the DA table if it was me.


Out of curiosity, is the injbatteryadj values kind of guesses based off the info from the wiki page, or is there a mathematical way to determine these values? I notice I have some adjustment there and some in the deadtime cell and would like to isolate that just to the DA values.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I would zero out timing in the .ecm file so he's only adjusting timing from the DA table if it was me.

Yeah Me too... .
But, I didn't want to mess with his timing tell I seen a log off more then just Idle that didn't have knock disabled...

Out of curiosity, is the injbatteryadj values kind of guesses based off the info from the wiki page, or is there a mathematical way to determine these values? I notice I have some adjustment there and some in the deadtime cell and would like to isolate that just to the DA values.

More or less both... I usually to start use a value that is the average of what I see other people using in all platforms car or tuning for Volt's vs Deatime (or that I have used before)... then see what is used as the the "standard" deadtime an add that to the stock an try to avarge it all out overall...

Once the car is running an the Deadtime is in line at Idle. I Add or subtract from the deatime. if I see a A/f change under a voltage drop like fans on or windows going up most Injectors out their don't have the same characteristics as the stock ones. I feel that it's one less thing deal with an works better for me... Hopefully that makes sense Even if you just change the low end deatimes and nothing else it helps alot as most aftermarket low-z injectors I feel have much more deatime at low volts then the stock do...

I did this with my 1450's an it fired right up only had to add about 30us to the deadtimes across the board

For his I more or less just added the deadtime to stock values since I wasn't 100% on what injectors he has...
I'm sure it will need some adjustment.

When you do this just make sure you 0 out your deatime in the Ecm file though...

PS
People if your giving someone the right deadtimes an saying something like its 120us that's not really correct that would be Stock Deadtime 640us+120us so 760us and even then that's only at 14volts the injectors are probably not perfectly liner and are gonna need more then 120us added at 9volts then at 14v the stock injectors are 1155us at 9 volts so a lot of the time if you just set your deadtime in the global this is why you have problems when you have a voltage drop.
Bottom line if more people gave out injector deadtimes like this for say 650's things would be easier...

 

[laserspeeddemon]

I'll load these when I get home.

Question, Does the usecs in the Fuel Tab change the results with the InjBatteryadj in the DA or are the linked (meaning adjusting one will also adjust the other)?

 

[snowborder714]

They are not linked, so if you make a change in one area, it will add to what's in the other, but will not automatically change the other to represent the new value. They just stack on top of each other. Same with fuel/timing stuff in sliders and DA tables. This is why we recommend using one or the other so you don't confuse yourself.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I kinda of rambled on with-out answering you.

But,
Basically in your case Snowboarder you would just want to add the Deadtime value in your ECM File all the way across the board like I did in the his DA...

Was your car tuned by someone else? I know sometimes I'll make a DT change an just forget to apply it in the DA since you can make it on the fly with the Ecm files...(I try not to forget ) But sometimes I have changed the the points above an below 14v so if you added the DT value from the ECM file to a stock one it wouldn't match up...

If you just make sure to apply any DT value change when your done(and then zero it out) you wouldn't really be changing things just simplifying everything as you said above this is the one of the main reasons. I like to do it this way it's easier to keep track of what your doing an not canceling out things in the EDA with something in the ECM or vise verse.

As someone did with the timing... .

I Assume based on your answer to Sean that you understand this just tiring to clarifying since I didn't really answer you before.

 

[snowborder714]

My brother and Tom Dorris are the only other people who have helped tune my car. I think I just need to sit down and play with it, along with some other DA stuff I've been interested in changing.

Let us know how those changes go Sean.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Will do, I am currently catching up on my homework. The days that I should have been reading, I was tinkering with my car. So I'm about 100 pages down that I need to read by tonight.
-----------------------------------------------

Well, more bad news. Car wouldn't started. My first guess was head gasket, but now it appears to be the piston seals. I did a compression test (though I did it cold) and the numbers where in the 110-ish area. I did a wet test and the numbers spiked to about 180-190. To me it diffintely looks like the piston seals are shot.

Could the the fact that I am doing the test cold throw my understanding off. Could it simply be a blown head gasket? (I know, I am just searching for a glimmer of hope). This engine is less than 10,000 miles old.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Oh man that sucks sorry to hear...
Even with 110psi compression it should start though may not run that best but it should run... .
Were you pushing coolant?
Seems like the next thing to do would be a leak-down test probably tell you a bit more...

 

[gofer]

The car should still start with the compression test results, did you check spark/fuel to each cylinder?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Obviously anyone that Has Link should be able to go to that an download it.
But, Really it should attached here. so it's hosted here that way anyone can take a look...

Also, does anyone know if their is a way to a attach .Eda and .Ecm files here?

Here it is: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/395564-how-tune-1g-v3-sd-ecmlink-no-maf.html#post152500340

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Update:

The upper radiator hose was SUPER hard, so I know I was pushing air into the coolant system... aka blown head gasket. However, the problem is far worse than what I thought. Because it is now an engine problem I made another thread, once I rebuild the motor I will come back in here and continue with the tuning aspect.

New thread:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/395748-head-salvageable-pics-inside.html

 

[Archer Fabrications]

A few months ago, I had my GM MAF cable go bad. So twdorris cut me a deal on a new one (thanks, Thomas D.)

I put the cable in and finished buttoning up the transmission and then took the car out. Here is my problem, whether I am running 18psi or 28psi (I literally ran 27.5+ psi), my wide band (AEM UEGO) says that I am running 10.5:1-10.8:1. I have never seen knock. Then my temps spiked north of 270.

I checked some things on the car, the Airflowperrev was at 0.38-0.40 gm/rev. My CombinedFT are at -24%. I tried to adjust my MAF Comp and it had 0 effect on the Airflowperrev. And I am just now noticing that at idle (900 RPMS) my MAF is registering 600+ Hz, is that right?

Also, at 28psi, I expected at least some knock. But I got nothing.

Anyway check out the logs. Give me some inputs... and I'll give you a cyber high five. If you are local, I'll buy you some beer.

I have a highway log, but it won't upload due to the size. I can't split the log on my Mac, due to some compability on the version of OS I am using and DSMLink, so I can't open DSMLink.

I can email it to someone or I can upload it later when a friend comes over.

ive got a mac as well to spl;it a log go to view then clip section (you of course have to highlight the selected part) but thats how you do it. im having similar issues my but my WB shows lean---- at idle and 10:1-11.1 at WOT

 

[laserspeeddemon]

My problem with mac was the version of OS is not supported by DSMLink (at least not at the time). But it doesn't matter because my son broke the screen so I no longer have a lap top. I tried swapping out my WB 02 sensor and that seemed to have fixed the problem.