AEM WB vs. Glowshift WB?

[j_biggz]

So what I want to know is if the Glowshift wideband is comparable to the AEM wideband. The only reason I would consider glowshift's wideband is that the rest of my gauges are glowshift. I would like to keep a " matched set " but at the same time dont want to sacrifice on quality. Anyone have any experience with the glowshifts WB? They are basically the same price an price isnt a concern with this addition. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is the link for a quick reference: 52mm TINTED SERIES DIGITAL WIDEBAND AIRFUEL RATIO GAUGE | eBay

 

[greekgodchaos]

That Glowshift WB is the same one I have, never gave me issues, then again I don't have anything to make sure the readings I get are off...but it tells me what I need to know for tuning the Talon when I need to So my vote is for the Glowshift.

 

[Deuce_three]

Have you looked at the lc-1? It's a really nice and accurate setup. Plus it works really well with dsmlink if you every plan going that route. If you don't like the lc-1 gauge, you can buy the db gauge that has the digital display.

 

[1997_GSX]

Innovate MTX-L > Most

 

[Deuce_three]

I just looked up that MTX-l, its pretty nice setup for the price. Didn't know it existed until now.

 

[Boostinsideways]

I like innovate as well. If I can get someone to buy my aem stuff I'm going to an innovate and something else for Boost control/gauge. The stuff I have came 2nd hand for too cheap to pass up.

 

[1997_GSX]

I just looked up that MTX-l, its pretty nice setup for the price. Didn't know it existed until now.

Yeah its really nice, my brother bought one for his car we haven't used it yet but its supposed to be extremely fast. Why by an old LC1 with outdated tech when you can buy something that is fully digital.

 

[LiquidX]

I switched from the LC1 DB to the MTXL. There is a video on here I made with it. I highly recommend INnovate.

Larger factor sweep range, programable sweep range, programable led display (lights), simply wiring, able to be easily recalibrated.

 

[j_biggz]

So I should just suck it up and deal with the miss matched gauges? I Wanted to know if the glowshift wideband was any good but I need something thats accurate and low low maintenance. I heard you have to calibrate the MTX-L? If so what all does that entail?

 

[Deuce_three]

Pretty much run it in free air for a min or so while setting it up. That's about it for calibration

 

[907gs-t]

I vote Innovate.

 

[LiquidX]

To calibrate the MTXL you unplug the sensor from the harness, turn on the power and wait for the error code, plug in the sensor and wait for it to read while in open air.

 

[j_biggz]

Whats the best place to have the WB mounted? I don't have link yet so I have to keep the front O2. I heard right before the flex section?

 

[LiquidX]

Both the Innovate and AEM widebands had a narrow band output wire (0v-1v) to use narrow band simulation with a stock ECU. If you don't want to do that then I would put a bung in either in the o2 housing or the top of the downpipe. Closer the better for response and less spots for exhaust leaks.

 

[DSM_PWR]

AEM without a doubt..

Although ive heard great things about both LC1 & MTXL

I wouldnt trust glowshift to monitor my lawnmower

 

[cbrfrenzie]

Best quality to least:
Innovate MTX-L
Innovate LC1
AEM

I tune with all 3 of these systems on a day to day basis for my job.

The innovates 0-5V analog output signal is actually 0.5V to 4.5V. This is actually nice because when the sensor craps out, the system clamps this output voltage to the 0V rail. This is nice because you can actually see the sensor just died, and not chase your tail tuning your vehicle to bogus data, like the AEM does.

The AEM continues giving a 0-5V analog signal when this happens, therefore there is no indication that the sensor took a crap and the end user assumes all is good and continues to tune his vehicle. Not so good.

The Innovate LC1 seems to take sensors out left and right here at our shop, however its hit and miss. Some units go through a sensor a week, some units I have never replaced the sensor. May be some sort of quality control issue during production? Not sure there....

 

[4Lurker4]

With all this talk about MTX-L I think I'll go grab one (running a LC1 right now). Sounds like a great set-up

 

[95tsiemad]

Both the Innovate and AEM widebands had a narrow band output wire (0v-1v) to use narrow band simulation with a stock ECU.

really how. i thought it only the innovate can.

 

[LiquidX]

really how. i thought it only the innovate can.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/371916-narrowband-simulation-aem-uego.html

 

[95tsiemad]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/371916-narrowband-simulation-aem-uego.html

Thank you.

 

[j_biggz]

So the best route is to take the stock O2 out and use the WB and hook it up to the Ecu and use that instead. Would be easier than adding another bung. Is there a vfaq on this?

 

[LiquidX]

A Vfaq for what, removing the sensor? Hook up instructions are on the manual that came with your wideband.

 

[forcefed86]

I would go with AEM or Innovate myself.

Narrow band simulation is horrible. You are best to leave your NB for idle/cruise AFR's and plumb your WB02 in addition.

I've also burned up the older 4.2 bosch LSU sensors by having them to close to the turbo. (usually took me 6-8 months to a year to burn one up) I was told by PLX 6-9" downstream of the turbo is the minimal safe distance for long sensor life. I also have a brass heat sink in the base of my sensor. I may sacrifice a few tenths of a second in response time with my placement being farther downstream, but it's better than buying new sensors every year. (street car)

 

[H4G64T]

I run a GlowShift one with Link and it works great. It uses the most current Bosch 4.9 sensor, so it is actually more accurate than most gauges on the market. It also is true digital.

 

[LiquidX]

Narrow band simulation is horrible. You are best to leave your NB for idle/cruise AFR's and plumb your WB02 in addition.

I've also burned up the older 4.2 bosch LSU sensors by having them to close to the turbo. (usually took me 6-8 months to a year to burn one up) I was told by PLX 6-9" downstream of the turbo is the minimal safe distance for long sensor life. I also have a brass heat sink in the base of my sensor. I may sacrifice a few tenths of a second in response time with my placement being farther downstream, but it's better than buying new sensors every year. (street car)

Why is it worse, it does the same thing but it's just a simulated voltage.

I've ran mine for over a year and still on the same sensor, it's a DD and the sensor is in the front o2 bung and this is without a heat sink. MANY MANY MANY others have done so as well with no ill effects.

I didn't even install the new sensor that came with my MTXL as my old LC1 sensor is still working great.