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1G DSM wont start

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tylerb826

Probationary Member
22
2
Aug 28, 2009
Eatonton, Georgia
So before I start I have searched the forums and couldnt find anything that would help. So I have a 1992 Eagle Talon Tsi with the 4g63T, evo 3 turbo, tubular headers, 3iin downpipe but mostly stock to my knowledge. Now my problems is that I jus got it put back together from fixin a oil leak on the oil return but I put it back together with all new gaskets, new oil, fresh gas everything is good, no leaks anywhere. Well i started it and it ran fine, but still had a slight leak. Pulled everything off got it fixed for good this time. Got it back together crunk it up it was running ok, the idle was high like its always been but no leaks. So i backed it out and proceeded to go forward and it started to bog down and smokin like it was running rich. And then i couldnt get it to rev very high and the idle dropped way down to bout 500 rpm. So I left it to sit for awhile, and now I came back to start it and now nothing. Its getting spark but the plugs are really wet like its not getting enough but it jus wont start. I cant really figure out wats goin on, it was jus running fine. Im not proffessional at this so any help would be appreciated.
 
i kinda had the issue and my ecu went went bad. See if you can swap your ecu with someone and go from there.
 
It sound to me like maybe your plugs are bad? When you pulled them out was there a lot of buildup on them? what color where they? You always want to cover the simple issues first before jumping to an ecu issue..
 
well when i originally pulled them out they were very dark because of the fact it had been runnin rich previously before i tore it down, and when i checked again they were jus wet and black.

But would the spark plugs make it not run all together, it basically jus slowly progressed from bogging to not cranking up all together and its doesnt even try to hit a lick jus turnsover and floods the cylinders, cause i can smell gas from the exhaust after i turn it over a couple times.
 
So i backed it out and proceeded to go forward and it started to bog down and smokin like it was running rich. And then i couldnt get it to rev very high and the idle dropped way down to bout 500 rpm. So I left it to sit for awhile, and now I came back to start it and now nothing.




It won't affect starting it up, but could affect your idle.
 
So i backed it out and proceeded to go forward and it started to bog down and smokin like it was running rich. And then i couldnt get it to rev very high and the idle dropped way down to bout 500 rpm. So I left it to sit for awhile, and now I came back to start it and now nothing.




It won't affect starting it up, but could affect your idle.

Not on a 1G.
 
Not on a 1G.
Just because the idle switch isn't physically in the TPS doesn't mean that a improperly adjusted TPS doesn't effect idle. I'd like to see where you got that information, I know it wasn't in the Mitsubishi service manual. Since, word for word, it says that for "Rough Idle or Engine Stumble" to check the TPS along with a laundry list of other sensors.

:dsm:
 
I'm just going off what I know about how the idle system works in a DSM, that's why I asked, please inform me - teach me - how the TPS affects idle. I really do want to know.
 
Get a fresh set of NGK plugs and try again. Cleaning them really doesn't always help after they've fouled out. I had the same problem after I did a clutch install on my N/T 1g. Somehow the plugs had fouled out between when I starter the clutch install, and finished. Threw new plugs in and it fired up after the 3rd crank.
 
ok...well so far I think ive figured its not getting enough air.First upon an inspection the intercooler wasnt hooked to the j-pipe so i hooked it up and still nothin. Checked the plugs and cleared the cylinders of any excess gas, still nothin. I took the j pipe loose from the intercooler and couldnt feel any air passing through it so i checked to see if the turbo was spinning so i took off the o2 housing to check the blades and shaft both are good and spinning. Put it all back together and it tried to start once or twice but still wouldnt fully crank so im out of ideas, what could it possibly be?
 
ok...well so far I think ive figured its not getting enough air.First upon an inspection the intercooler wasnt hooked to the j-pipe so i hooked it up and still nothin. Checked the plugs and cleared the cylinders of any excess gas, still nothin. I took the j pipe loose from the intercooler and couldnt feel any air passing through it so i checked to see if the turbo was spinning so i took off the o2 housing to check the blades and shaft both are good and spinning. Put it all back together and it tried to start once or twice but still wouldnt fully crank so im out of ideas, what could it possibly be?



If there is no air passing through the turbo, then it has to be your Air Filter.
Take it off. even if it looks clean, just take it off to start it up, so there is one thing less to worry about. You can put it on after you start the engine.
 
well when i originally pulled them out they were very dark because of the fact it had been runnin rich previously before i tore it down, and when i checked again they were jus wet and black.

But would the spark plugs make it not run all together, it basically jus slowly progressed from bogging to not cranking up all together and its doesnt even try to hit a lick jus turnsover and floods the cylinders, cause i can smell gas from the exhaust after i turn it over a couple times.



What do you mean the plugs are "black" and "wet"?? Wet with gas or oil?? (smell it) and Yes, bad plugs affect idle and start up, get some new plugs and junk the old rich burnt plugs, check gapping too.
 
ok problem solved, change to old plugs with New NGK R plugs and it fired up 1st crank and ran like a champ. Still having high idle issues but I will post that thread later after i do some searchin. Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this issue.
 
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