2G DSM link v2.5 help...

[Jammin'Trey]

I bought a 1999 eclipse GSX, it has a 14b, big fmic, all 2.5in hard piping, BM fuel reg, walbro 255, stock 450cc injectors, megan 3in dp, thermal 3in catback, I have an autometer boost/vacuum gauge hooked up aswell. K&N intake. There might be more I am forgetting.... Stock 02 housing.

The car came with an Eprom ecu, and a laptop with dsmlink v2.5, I have done idle datalogging, and a 3rd gear 2k-redline pull thats logged. The car runs about 18psi, I am trying to figure out if it running lean at 18psi, It goes to 15psi then creeps to 18psi (around 5k)according to my autometer phantom gauge (hooked up correctly, t'd on the fp reg vacuum line...). Car pulls hard but falls off power at high rpms.

I am trying to get the datalog from the laptop I got with the car to this one but the other doesnt have wireless, nor can I post in the tuning section....(grr)

On the datalog I got a max of .4 degrees of knock at 5k rpms. The front o2 stabilized at .92v open loop. Thanks.

 

[dsmlifestyle]

I would make sure the fuel pressure is set correctly first and foremost. Having the fuel pressure too high at idle, only causes a greater head on the fuel pump when you up the boost; the greater the head, the lower the flow, the faster you max out the duty cycle on the injectors. The LC-1 is a great unit, it works very well with link, and is is extremely accurate. Wideband O2 Sensor Shootout! | FordMuscle Magazine

 

[Jammin'Trey]

I would make sure the fuel pressure is set correctly first and foremost. Having the fuel pressure too high at idle, only causes a greater head on the fuel pump when you up the boost; the greater the head, the lower the flow, the faster you max out the duty cycle on the injectors. The LC-1 is a great unit, it works very well with link, and is is extremely accurate. Wideband O2 Sensor Shootout! | FordMuscle Magazine

I have no boost controller right now, It is directly hooked up to boost right now (on the bov port... grr. need to make it on the j pipe....), The only reason my psi is so high is because of boost creep, I have no want to run 18 psi.... I would be happy with a well tuned 16 psi car.

If the IAT is on the big maf sensor, It rests on the 2.5in pipe to my throttle body, I bet toughing that makes it hot.... I will try to get it insulated better.

I will hopefully be able to buy a lc-1 tomorrow. Or worst case I will get a new aem uego locally for 225$. I will try to see if I can get a fuel pressure gauge on my fpr soon to confirm 43.5 at idle...

 

[snowborder714]

Could you take a few pictures of your car/engine bay so I can see what we're working with? You've thoroughly confused me with what all mods you have.

And/or fill out your profile please.

 

[Jammin'Trey]

Could you take a few pictures of your car/engine bay so I can see what we're working with? You've thoroughly confused me with what all mods you have.

And/or fill out your profile please.

I will fix my profile and take some pics and post them up, give me 15 minutes...

 

[Jammin'Trey]

Here are some pictures of the engine bay.....

 

[Jammin'Trey]

I lifted up the maf so you can see how it rests on the post turbo piping to the throttle body....

The maf isn;t held down by anything....just the rubber/plastic piping to the turbo

I am trying to get the pics to upload, this might take a sec...

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[snowborder714]

The fact that the MAS is resting on the upper intercooler pipe shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Jammin'Trey]

Ok, I didnt think it would be. Why would my intake temps be so high then...? Air filter placement?

 

[Fat]

You really need to fix the fuel problem first. Get the LC-1. I have one in my car hooked up into the Dsmlink, It is dead on, I couldnt tune with out it. Back to the injectors, I would get alot bigger than you need now since you have link, like someone already stated, because you can make up for them in dsmlink, plus they will be around the same price.

 

[Jammin'Trey]

So looks like injectors and a wideband....


LC-1 is 199 shipped ebay, injectors are a lot, what cc are you thinking...?

I honestly thought about 1000cc beacuse then I could run corn juice....


EDIT: I still need to figure out why my Intake temps are so high, is there anything I should look for to lower them... Being that I have the stock rubber intake hose I thought that it would not have much heat transfer from the turbo.

 

[dsmlifestyle]

The black intercooler is nice for a semi-sleeper look, but it absorbs heat, which is very bad at low flow situations. This isn't too much of a big deal once you get into boost though, because the large core acts like an expansion chamber, quickly cooling the charge.

It looks like the manifold heat shroud is on, so this is good. As stated earlier, isolating the air intake from the engine bay is a solid way of decreasing the temps (via a filter in the fender or a heat shroud).

 

[Jammin'Trey]

The black intercooler is nice for a semi-sleeper look, but it absorbs heat, which is very bad at low flow situations. This isn't too much of a big deal once you get into boost though, because the large core acts like an expansion chamber, quickly cooling the charge.

It looks like the manifold heat shroud is on, so this is good. As stated earlier, isolating the air intake from the engine bay is a solid way of decreasing the temps (via a filter in the fender or a heat shroud).

Bingo heat shroud, I will fab one up real quick. I am ordering a lc-1 tomorrow. Then next wednsday I am ordering some evo 8 560cc injectors. Then I will try to get this bi*** tuned. I have no need or want to spend more money on bigger injectors for boost I will never run.

SO.... my dsm fix list.. ()/everyone has one....
----Intake heat sheald
----New ebay 02 housing install
----Waste gate line to J-pipe jb weld in fitting
----Install and tune for evo 8 injectors on hopefully 16-17psi....

Then hopefully I will have a kick ass DSM DD... WORK SON>!

 

[Jammin'Trey]

Ok, I ordered a innovative LC-1 this morning.. And a Ball and spring ebay MBC, I will get some 550cc injectors next week. Hopefully the LC-1 and DSM link will make tuning a breeze. It has the wideband gauge too, got to fill the empty slot in my pillar .

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[Fat]

I would go bigger than the 560's also. They will be plenty for your needs now, BUT im telling you that you will get bored and want to up the boost and mods down the road. Spend the 100 bucks more and get yourself a real set of injectors.

 

[lazyazzdaddy]

i was taking another look at your logs and have a few questions i was hoping you could answer. first did you do your idle log after your 3rd gear pull? Im asking because if your turbo was still hot from your pull that little 14b heat thrower could be adding to your intake temps being so high. also when you painted you fmic did you spray paint it? because if you did think about all the over spray that got in between your fins of the intercooler. the intercooler "looks" cool black but, aluminum is very good at dissapateing heat but when you paited it black you covered the aluminum how does the heat transfer off the ic when it has a "blanket" of black paint over it? like i mentioned before also if you painted with spray paint you prob clogged the passages between the bars and your not getting proper airflow thru the i.c. . and on top of all that if the front of your car is facing the sun it's absorbing all that heat and as a result your ic is heat soaked to begin with before you even leave your driveway.
in my opinion i would sell your intercooler to some honda owner and get yourself a new untouched one also as far as the knock you were seeing during you pull it would most likely be eliminated if you got your intake temps down.
imho i would get yourself a set of maybe 880cc injectors you already have dsmlink so like everyone else stated buy larger than you need now so when you decide it's just not fast enough anymore you have room to work with plus you could even switch over to e85 on 880's if you wanted to.
as far as your tune goes if your going to get the new injectors right away i wouldn't waist your time trying to get your fuel trims in order un'till you get the new injectors in because you'll have to start all over anyways. maybe spend the time instead sourcing a hard pipe for your intake and you said you could fab up a heat shield so making an intake box or shroud should be no problem. one last thing when you do get your new injectors do your self a favor and download ecmlink and use it to set you fuel trims for you. you may have to make some small adjustments to your dead times but that all.

 

[Jammin'Trey]

My idle log was after a 10 or so mile trip, motor was heated up, but not after I did any 3rd gear pulls no/

The paint was done by the previous owner when it was off the car, the fins are all strait and the intercooler never gets above abient temp, it is friggin huge for my 14b, like It covers the whole front section of the car and under the bumper where you cannot even see it. I dont think the intercooler would be causing my high underhood temps, it seems to flow good and the IAT sensor is pre-turbo.

I have a temp gun and checked the MAF after daily driving when it was 85 degrees here, the MAF was 124 degrees, within a degree of what dsmlink told me. I will download ecmlink on the tuning laptop as soon as I get a wireless card. I also went to the autoparts store and got a 170 degree thermostat ...... My motor was running 220 yesterday constant (dsm link) I want it to run around 195-205MAX!. I might have to look into a aluminum radiator too, the radiator in the car is brand new though. There is a nice 12"x7" oil cooler installed aswell inbetween the radiator and the intercooler.

I put the fitting for the w/g actuator on the J pipe and to no avail boost creep is still there. I have the ebay 02 housing in my posession and I will be installing it this weekend for sure.

What brand of injectors are good... Can my 14B even handle 20psi somehwat efficiently? Or am I going to over spin it and melt the exhaust turbine ....

Do you guys think I should make a heat sheild around the MAF too? Or just the filter?

I cant beleive that ,y temps are so high.! I wonder if the radiator fan blows hot air on the intake pipe and that causes it.

I am really hoping this 170 degree thermostat helps...

 

[snowborder714]

I would say just the filter. I can't see any benefit of including the MAS as well.

I would say to look into better fans before an aluminum radiator. You'll notice more of a difference from that.

I (and a lot of people on here) prefer FIC injectors. However people run all different brands. I just like that the FIC's are flow matched and come with paperwork showing how close each injector is.

I'd say you could run 20psi on the 14b. It won't melt anything.

 

[Jammin'Trey]

Ok heres the update, I built a intake heat sheild, Made a boost fitting for w/g on the J pipe, Installed Ebay o2 housing, Installed Innovate LC-1 wideband and gauge, Last I set coolant offset in dsm link to +20 and put in a 170 degree thermostat.

My Intake temps are still over 120, my coolant temps are at 220, Boost creep went from 19 psi to constant 17 psi, Now at 17 psi WOT I am at 95% inj duty cycle, I have a WOT afr of 11.2-11.1. Cruising AFR is 14.0-14.2 at idle my afr is 14.6-14.7.

I am installing some Evo 8 560s here in a few days and tuning using a few guides I printed off.... I will post up logs as soon as I get the innovate w/b wired to my ecu/what pin and where on my ecu do I hook it to?

Thanks a lot for all the help guys, My dsm gets better every day!

EDIT: I also have a hallman boost controller on the way, hopefully I can make full boost faster with it, right now I am 11 psi until I hit about 4-5k then it goes to 17psi steady. Hopefully it will help level out my boost gain to rpm ratio.

I also ordered a B&M fuel pressure gauge kit, it mounts to my fuel filter, so I can confirm my fuel pressure at idle.



I plan on ordering the alum radiator. two fan combo from punishment racing for 220, that a great deal.

 

[snowborder714]

Well, your wideband readings sound good. You'll put the brown wire into pin 75 (rear o2 sensor wire).

Why did you use the coolant offset? I'd take that out since you're still running hot. Are you sure your fan is coming on? Might also want to consider switching to 70/30 mix with a bottle of Water Wetter.

 

[Jammin'Trey]

Well, your wideband readings sound good. You'll put the brown wire into pin 75 (rear o2 sensor wire).

Why did you use the coolant offset? I'd take that out since you're still running hot. Are you sure your fan is coming on? Might also want to consider switching to 70/30 mix with a bottle of Water Wetter.

I used coolant offset so the fan kicks on 20 degrees earlier than stock. I thought that I would kick the fan on earlier with the 170 degree thermostat. I am pretty sure that mishimoto/flexalite setup will be on the way in a week or two.

I think I will work on some radiator duct work, and possibly remove the a/c condensor. A/C is dry as a bone and doesnt work anyways....

I have to go and setup so the other wire is 0-5v like the gauge wire. Then I will wire it to the ecu and do sum mad datalogging. , well I plan on hooking it up to the ecu when I get new injectors to get that duty cycle down.

I really like dsmlink, very user friendly.

I will keep you guys updated when I get the injectors and fuel pressure gauge here in the next few days.

 

[Jammin'Trey]

I think I found a major kink in my fuel system today, I finally got around to installing a fuel pressure gauge...


Needless to say with vacuum hooked up to my afpr my fuel pressure at idle is 32psi. wow, Isnt it supposed to be 43.5? Or possibly higher if I wanted to tune for it....

 

[snowborder714]

With the vacuum line disconnected at idle, it should be 43.5psi.

Or just turn the key to ON (but don't start it) and use DSMlink to activate the fuel pump. This way you don't have to disconnect the vacuum line.

 

[Jammin'Trey]

ok this is going to throw you for a loop, it was less, like 29psi.. weiird.. What the duece.

Engine off, fuel pump funning (Icould hear it good too.....)

Walbro 255 (not HP)...

B&M fuel pressure regulator. No fuel leaks.

This is really weird.


If I could make a guess maybe the fuel pressure regulator is turned all the way out, so it is at the lowest setting?

IMO B&M fprs are crap. I wish I had an aeromotive.....

 

[snowborder714]

Try adjusting it and see which direction it goes. I believe adjusted out is the lowest, so start turning it in slowly.

 

[Jammin'Trey]

I adjusted it so that it is 44 psi fuel pump on motor not running. Then I started the motor and guess what, fuel pressure stays the same at 43psi. Maybe 1 psi or so less (43psi).

Strange. Am I ok running 44psi at idle with stock injectors? The only thing i can think of is my walbro 255 is hard for the B&M to step down with vacuum...