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2G DSM link v2.5 help...

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Jammin'Trey

10+ Year Contributor
74
0
Jun 11, 2009
Omaha, Nebraska
I bought a 1999 eclipse GSX, it has a 14b, big fmic, all 2.5in hard piping, BM fuel reg, walbro 255, stock 450cc injectors, megan 3in dp, thermal 3in catback, I have an autometer boost/vacuum gauge hooked up aswell. K&N intake. There might be more I am forgetting.... Stock 02 housing.

The car came with an Eprom ecu, and a laptop with dsmlink v2.5, I have done idle datalogging, and a 3rd gear 2k-redline pull thats logged. The car runs about 18psi, I am trying to figure out if it running lean at 18psi, It goes to 15psi then creeps to 18psi (around 5k)according to my autometer phantom gauge (hooked up correctly, t'd on the fp reg vacuum line...). Car pulls hard but falls off power at high rpms.

I am trying to get the datalog from the laptop I got with the car to this one but the other doesnt have wireless, nor can I post in the tuning section....(grr)

On the datalog I got a max of .4 degrees of knock at 5k rpms. The front o2 stabilized at .92v open loop. Thanks.
 
Are you maxing out the 450's?

I have no idea..... I cant find a duty cycle, I am not firmiliar with dsm link .....

I am going to try to get a wb o2 soon, where can I get a cheap cheap setup, like bare minimum to get by.

EDIT: I have a pyro gauge, but no sensor. I know a lean car can make high EGTs and so can a rich car. So a wideband can tell me high or low more accuratly.
 
Here are the logs, one is a constant idle, one is a 3rd gear pull. (from approx 2k to 7500)
 

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i noticed several things 1-your intake temps are pretty high as well as you cool temp during your pull. 2-you fuel trims are off. 3- you need to change the props to your settings 4- your maxing out you injectors
 
In the first log your injectors are pretty much maxed out (20 ms) at 5200 revs. First, I would get those fuel trims in order. Is your FPR set at 43.5 psi w/o a vacuum source? Your fuel trims are maxed out at idle; they should be close to zero (+/- 5%) with the stock injectors.

Once that is double checked, take a log at idle, but include MAFraw from the "captured values" list and post it back up.
 
In the first log your injectors are pretty much maxed out (20 ms) at 5200 revs. First, I would get those fuel trims in order. Is your FPR set at 43.5 psi w/o a vacuum source? Your fuel trims are maxed out at idle; they should be close to zero (+/- 5%) with the stock injectors.

Once that is double checked, take a log at idle, but include MAFraw from the "captured values" list and post it back up.

How can I check my fuel pressure? I dont have a fp guage...? Or is there one already there and in dsm link....?

How can I lower my intake temps, I have a huge 5" core FMIC that covers the whole front section of my car.

I want to get some 550cc injectors. Will I need them?



(the boost creep to 18-19psi should be fixed with a new 02 housing and the w/g line on my j pipe...)

I can quick take an idle log with mafraw. I will post it up real quick, I am unsure how to check my fuel pressure.
 
You can't check fuel pressure without a gauge.

I'm guessing you're on the stock fuel system overall (pump and pressure regulator). If so, you won't have a way to adjust the pressure anyway.

Yes, you could use 550cc injectors. However, since you have DSMlink, you can go with whatever size you want and it'll still idle like stock. So you could purchase one size and not have to buy them again for a long time (if ever). I would say depending on your goals, you'll definitely want a bigger fuel pump and possibly an AFPR depending on the pump size. You can do some research on the few fuel pumps used in our cars.
 
here is a log with maf raw, idle....

I have a walbro 255lph and a B&M fuel pressure regulator.
 

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That log doesn't help much as you don't have LTFT's logged. But your intake temps are still extremely high and your coolant temps are so high they're pulling 1* of timing (starts at 206*). That big 5" core is probably hurting you a lot. Especially if you're not using it to it's potential (which you're not with a 14b). I would say you need some ducting for the intercooler/radiator area to keep air entering the front forced into the radiator. You probably also need to extend your intake/filter to a place where it can get more air. You might want to run a different thermostat.

So you have a B&M regulator, but not gauge on it?

If you want to start tuning, follow this guide.
GMAF Calibration for LTFT

Or download the V3 application and not have to do anything except run a wizard.
 
That log doesn't help much as you don't have LTFT's logged. But your intake temps are still extremely high and your coolant temps are so high they're pulling 1* of timing (starts at 206*). That big 5" core is probably hurting you a lot. Especially if you're not using it to it's potential (which you're not with a 14b). I would say you need some ducting for the intercooler/radiator area to keep air entering the front forced into the radiator. You probably also need to extend your intake/filter to a place where it can get more air. You might want to run a different thermostat.

So you have a B&M regulator, but not gauge on it?

If you want to start tuning, follow this guide.
GMAF Calibration for LTFT

Or download the V3 application and not have to do anything except run a wizard.

Ok, a cooler thermaostat, I can extend the air filter a little or make a heat sheild. I have no a/c fan in the engine bay either, nor does the car have a lower turbo heat sheild. I will look into making/ gettting one real quick. What is an ideal intake temp?
 
That log doesn't help much as you don't have LTFT's logged. But your intake temps are still extremely high and your coolant temps are so high they're pulling 1* of timing (starts at 206*). That big 5" core is probably hurting you a lot. Especially if you're not using it to it's potential (which you're not with a 14b). I would say you need some ducting for the intercooler/radiator area to keep air entering the front forced into the radiator. You probably also need to extend your intake/filter to a place where it can get more air. You might want to run a different thermostat.

So you have a B&M regulator, but not gauge on it?

If you want to start tuning, follow this guide.
GMAF Calibration for LTFT

Or download the V3 application and not have to do anything except run a wizard.

Just wanted to say thanks! I didn't realize ecmlink worked with earlier versions of dsmlink. i downloaded it last night and have been playing with it all morning. I love it. i was on the fence about upgrading and have now decided it's more than worth it.
 
ambient temperature is about 70-85 right now here. I will do a log with ltft mid and low.

Idle and 3rd gear pull

I think I downloaded ecm link onthis laptop, but dsm link is on my other and I need a 9pin serial to usb to do it on this computer.....
 
A 3rd gear pull is useless right now without knowing your air/fuel ratio. Some people will tune without a wideband, but I personally don't like doing it.

So you'll want to start off with MAFRaw, LTFT Lo, LTFT Mid, and STFT while doing idle logs, rev logs (MAFRaw = 150Hz), and cruise logs (MAFRaw = 250Hz). Yes, you can use the 3rd gear pull to then tune your 400Hz - 2400Hz sliders, so that's probably all it would be good for. All of this is in the link I posted above.



One thing I noticed is that you said you have 2.25" piping, yet you have a 5" core. Are you sure you're measuring the core thickness? I don't think I've ever heard of this setup, considering a core of that size should have at least 2.5" openings, if not 3".
 
Ok, what wideband should I buy? I was looking at a aem uego, basically because its cheap. I dont have much money. I did a log today of a 3rd gear pull to see if I was maxing out the inj duty cycle.... I am totally over 80%. i got to get the 02 housing on and a new fitting for the w/g actuator on the j pipe and hopefully get rid of this boost creep.

Also can any one tell me why my estboost/in of mercury are peaking then going way down? My autometer boost gauge goes to 12psi then creeps quickly to 18-17. That seems weird to me.


One last question where is the IAT sensor.... In my firebird it was right by the air filter, I cant seem to find it in this car... Is it in the maf? Or on the piping somewhere? The previous owner did all of the hard piping and I am almost curious that the iat is dangling somewhere in my engine bay... :(.

I will start looking for a new thermostat, stock temerature?

EDIT hardpiping is 2.5in ....

Sorry I dont think I got ltft mid lo or stft....
 

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I always recommend the LC-1, especially if you're logging it in DSMlink. The AEM and DSMlink take a good bit of work to get it to read right. Look for the LC-1 on eBay or do a search on here to see what others say about it.

Ok thanks, I appreciate all the help a lot man. I would be lost without dsmtuners.

I will get a LC-1 and see what the deal is. I defiantly need some 550cc injectors. I actually might get a set of evo8 injectors and get my boost creep down to 16psi (with the new 02 housing and j pipe fitting....) . Then get a wide-band. I think that would be the safest thing to do.

I honestly think that the car is running lean now, or should be with duty cycle at 99%. Thats not safe.
 
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