The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

drivers side axle help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

koryto2012

10+ Year Contributor
181
1
Nov 24, 2011
Indianapolis, Indiana
So I'm tryin to take off my axles to drop my tranny.. I need some help taking off the driver's side axle. Anyone have a step by step instructions?
Btw way I got the passenger's side axle out easy.
 
There is a carrier that bolts to the back of the block. There are 2 bolts that hold it on. After you remove them the axle will come right out.
 
After removing the two intermediate shaft bearing bolts, I had to position a short piece of wood passing under the down pipe and against the back of the tripod joint housing (not the bearing) and whack it with a rubber mallet. Took a few hits but it came.
 
I had a lot of trouble getting the main center nut off, even with pb blaster and an impact gun...it is fused with rust. I finally got it off but how do I remove the bolt or end of the axle from the rotors. It seems to be fused with rust....what else do i need to remove or do to get it out?? I hit the end with my sledge and soaked it with pb but its not breaking free....any tips!??

Mine is a 97 spyder gs-t. I am working on replacing my front drivers side cv joint.
I am stuck at this point. I removed the control arm so the whole thing is free to turn and move.:banghead:
 
Have you tried using a two or three arm puller? Position the arms around the hub and then tighten the center screw against the end of the axle shaft.
 
In 90 percent of cases with 2g's you will have to cut the axle cup from the hub and by a new hub assembly and axle because they are so stuck.
 
If the rotor won't come off, spray it down with PB Blaster or WD-40 every once in a while, maybe for a couple days. Lightly smack around the outside edge with a hammer (not rubber) and the shock should eventually knock enough rust off that it falls loose on the studs.

Same concept for the axle splines and the hub, and the axle nut too (even though you already got it off). Spray it down, be patient. Put the castle nut on backwards and nearly flush with the top of the threads, and smack it with the biggest hammer you have. Only use as much force as necessary. The splines should slide out smoothly. You will have to turn your steering all the way to the left, or nearly all the way, and pull the hub back as much as you can while pushing the axle toward the passenger side to get the threaded portion free of the hub and the seal. Be sure to not damage the seal.

If that doesn't get you anywhere, use some heat in place of the penetrating oil.

As an aside, if the car will be exposed to the weather or any foreign debris, cover the hubs to ensure nothing gets into the wheel bearings while the axles are out.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top