done with maint.

[snakeyes711]

So, after buying this basket case its coming together nice. So heres what I have done so far.

New transmission
Changed fluid in tranny, case, and rear diff.
new Transfer case
St. 1 exedy clutch
both front drive shafts
attached rear drive shaft, and got it bolted in.
Timing belt kit/new pulleys, and water pump
I did the basic stuff too, cleaned the IC, cut the back panel out. removed plug in BCS rest.
reset WOT, adjusted clutch travel. fixed boost leaks.

Is there anything I have forgotten to do you can think of tell me. Oh, I need to check base timing. It should be +5 at Idle?

I've basically done all the preventative maint. that was neglected when I bought the car.

I was going to get a 190, and a small 16g, and have it tuned but what else should I do that needs done first?

oh, I did a 2g exhaust manifold with new gaskets today the old manifold has about a half dozen cracks in it one almost wrapped all the way around between #2, and #3 on the right side of the turbo

I been shopping for a boost gauge for it. I can't seem to find a good two gauge combo. I was going to get boos t,and oil pressure.

 

[toofast82]

hmmm, I have been told that they are useless but I've never fully understood why that is? Could you delve a little deeper in explaining it to me? Thanks

I recently installed my Innovate Lc-1, Prior to this, I was getting narrowband readings of .82-.84, which to me on narrowband seems lean. I would say rich is .92+. According to the wideband, my a/f readings were in the low 9's, very rich. I have it tuned in the 11:1 range now. I no longer have my stock O2, so im not sure what it would read at this point. Could have just been a very old original sensor possibly? It did cycle properly on the logger. But in my firsthand and many others, they appear to be worthless unless for closed loop driving.

 

[snakeyes711]

Hey thanks guy for the info. I been off line for a few days now. I made a bone head move. My little sister uses a file sharing program called FrostWire. After searching on where to get word excel from. I found that it costs 29.99. I searched in that file sharing program for excel,a nd downloaded the installer for it right? SWEET!

as soon as I clicked to extract files. Norton came up on a red screen saying a back door trojan horse was downloaded. Man it sure was NASTY. it wouldn't even let me on line unless it could go online too. I pulled the switch on the modem, and left it. Every time I booted windows it automatically turned off norton. It wouldn't even let me whip the drive, and reinstall windows from a disk.

I had to go buy a small flash drive, adn backed up a bunch of personal files.(34.99) then I bought a used clean hard drive(40.00) to reinstall windows. My wife was furious at me as she has an online business, and couldn't do anything she needed. Basically I could have just bought the F'n excel program. but I am bone headed, and decided to pay double, a lot of headache, and time.

 

[snakeyes711]

Sounds about right with the timing. If you can modify the timing preference for your adjustment of 3btdc, than i would do it. I would stick with a stock thermostat temperature, Your coolant temps should stay in the 190s. I forget which temperature the ecu pulls a degree of timing, but you're in the area.
The narrowband readings are useless. .84v would be kind of on the lean side with narrowband. Before i installed my wideband, my nb readings were about .83, but when i installed my lc-1, i realized my a/f was at 9.3:1(very rich). I would invest in a wideband as it makes tuning a lot easier and accurate. You're also about at the point that you wont be able to run much more boost with the aggressive 1g timing. Begin to look to a custom chip or doing your own eprom editing.

Yes I adjusted the logger to say at idle the base timing is 6* which is true right?

So is this 02-f my front 02 sensor or is it wrong? because its readings are 3.47v...

 

[habitatguy187]

So is this 02-f my front 02 sensor or is it wrong? because its readings are 3.47v...

Well at cruise/idle it should bounce around .5 , so basically if it's reading right then you're about 7 times richer than you should be, which you would probably notice. I know that there's a couple o2 values and I don't remember which is which.

What do your fuel trims say?

Another good read concerning this. The Essential Primer on the Diamond-Star Engine Control Units - Table of Contents

 

[snakeyes711]

fuel trim

low 139%
mid 106%
high88.2%

Yeah Thats waht I'm asking one o2 says F. The other says R. Does this mean Front, Rear? If so my front sensor is reading 3.47v.

Thanks for the link

 

[habitatguy187]

fuel trim

low 139%
mid 106%
high88.2%

Yeah Thats waht I'm asking one o2 says F. The other says R. Does this mean Front, Rear? If so my front sensor is reading 3.47v.

Thanks for the link

Are you sure you don't have any boost/vacuum leaks?

The ecu is adding fuel at idle, mild cruise it's adding a little, and higher rpms but still in closed-loop it's taking away fuel. Kinda screwy.

What does the other o2 read on average? It should bounce around.

Also have you checked your ecu for leaking caps yet? It can cause all kinds of crazy things to happen. For instance; at idle my ecu was pulling tons of fuel, and at the mid and high trims it was adding about 16%. You really need to check your ecu if you haven't, it only takes about 10 mins.

 

[snakeyes711]

ok I ust looked on the page with the fuel trim. the bottom one says, FTO2. is that the o2 on the man? it reads100% or is tht Fuel Trim O2?

on the first page both colums bottom param. is O2-F, and O2-R=0.087v. The other that says O2F reads 3.35v.

I'll be checking the ecu soon.

 

[habitatguy187]

The FTo2 is what the ecu is doing at that exact moment with fuel, adding more or taking away. It will read 100% until the o2 sensor gets warm enough to start cycling correctly.

My ecu's been out for 3 weeks now and I don't remember what o2 I log, so hopefully someone else will chime in.

 

[snakeyes711]

Are you sure you don't have any boost/vacuum leaks?

The ecu is adding fuel at idle, mild cruise it's adding a little, and higher rpms but still in closed-loop it's taking away fuel. Kinda screwy.

What does the other o2 read on average? It should bounce around.

Also have you checked your ecu for leaking caps yet? It can cause all kinds of crazy things to happen. For instance; at idle my ecu was pulling tons of fuel, and at the mid and high trims it was adding about 16%. You really need to check your ecu if you haven't, it only takes about 10 mins.

No, I'm getting around to checking the intake for leaks. I need to add that to my to do list. I heard a hissing sound behind the intake yesterday. Now my flex pipe has busted out one side, and is leaking its starting to sound real riced out.

I thought about just cutting it out, and welding in a straight pipe. Then after a little searching I found thats not a good idea. I think I'm also going to set my base timing to more like 2* also.

 

[dsm-onster]

Get some of the flex pipe from your local auto parts store. It works fine and is stainless.

 

[snakeyes711]

roger that dsM-onster. I been pondering about that route.

Also I'm doing this tomorrow.

IC Pipe Tester

Will this be ok to try, and pressurize the intake?

 

[1997_GSX]

Don't remove the flex section, it puts to much stress one the exhaust manifold and turbo. It is about $30 for a Flex Section, Ebay has them.

 

[Colt4G63 also]

roger that dsM-onster. I been pondering about that route.

Also I'm doing this tomorrow.

IC Pipe Tester

Will this be ok to try, and pressurize the intake?

That will work fine. It's even better if you put a pressure gauge on it.

 

[snakeyes711]

Yep. Thanks after some researching I found that a solid pipe is a bad idea. I may take a trip to parts store, and fix it wit some clamp on stuff until I get one to weld in. I checked mits. just to see if they sold that piece. The guy asked, "why would you go back with a stock one? He didn't understand its until I can do my own exhaust. I got a Miller 115 so I'm good there.

 

[snakeyes711]

man, I'm trying to do this boost leak test. but there are two nipples on the bottom right side of the intake manifold, and I can't get at them to even slip a hose on them.

 

[habitatguy187]

man, I'm trying to do this boost leak test. but there are two nipples on the bottom right side of the intake manifold, and I can't get at them to even slip a hose on them.

Why would you slip a hose on them?

Just put the tester on the inlet of the turbo, open the throttle plate, and pressurize the tester. That way it pressurizes from the turbo itself, down the licp, through the IC, through the uicp, into the throttle body, through the intake manifold and into the head.

If you don't see any leaks get a bottle of soapy water and spray all around your intake manifold, injectors, intercooler, and throttle body. Those are usually the trouble spots, but there are more places it can leak besides just those.

 

[snakeyes711]

I can't even build pressure because something on the right side of teh engine under the intake manifold leaks it rigth back off. I didn't open the throttle body though.

 

[snakeyes711]

does any one have any idea where all the ports/nipples are on this intake man? I swear its like one hose isn't hooked up,a nd leaks all teh pressure right out.

 

[MY1GDSM]

hmmm, I have been told that they are useless but I've never fully understood why that is? Could you delve a little deeper in explaining it to me? Thanks

I recently installed my Innovate Lc-1, Prior to this, I was getting narrowband readings of .82-.84, which to me on narrowband seems lean. I would say rich is .92+. According to the wideband, my a/f readings were in the low 9's, very rich. I have it tuned in the 11:1 range now. I no longer have my stock O2, so im not sure what it would read at this point. Could have just been a very old original sensor possibly? It did cycle properly on the logger. But in my firsthand and many others, they appear to be worthless unless for closed loop driving.

On a Completely stock car it's not completely useless...Kinda... but to put it in prospective I've logged O2 volts of as low as .72 in the low 11:1 range and as high as .86 with the same tune

 

[snakeyes711]

I was unsuccessful on the leak test. I couldn't get pressure at all. Any pressure that would build up leaked right out somewhere under the manifold. I couldn't find it. I'm thinking maybe a blown intake manifold? Also I found seals on the throttle body are leaking. Where can I get those two seals on the TB from?

 

[habitatguy187]

Where can I get those two seals on the TB from?

Throttle Body O-Ring

As for all the pressure bleeding out, did you use soapy water? Where exactly on the back do you hear it coming from? (pass. side, middle, driver side)

The only nipples air can come out of is the one that goes to the brake booster, the one that goes to the pcv valve, the one that goes to the bov, the one that goes to the fpr, and the 4 on the throttle body.

I had a problem finding mine and it was that my egr valve was stuck open, so I could hear the air going out and into the exhaust manifold but I couldn't feel it anywhere, might want to buy a block off plate. There's also a gasket behind the isc that has been known to go bad from time to time, but you should be able to feel the air coming out right under your throttle body elbow if it's as bad as you said.

Also you need the engine turned to 20* (i think) ATDC, it will almost close the valves to help keep boost in.

Also a good read concerning hard to find boost leaks. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...-need-list-everything-can-cause-fuel-cut.html

 

[snakeyes711]

Throttle Body O-Ring

As for all the pressure bleeding out, did you use soapy water? Where exactly on the back do you hear it coming from? (pass. side, middle, driver side)

The only nipples air can come out of is the one that goes to the brake booster, the one that goes to the pcv valve, the one that goes to the bov, the one that goes to the fpr, and the 4 on the throttle body.

I had a problem finding mine and it was that my egr valve was stuck open, so I could hear the air going out and into the exhaust manifold but I couldn't feel it anywhere, might want to buy a block off plate. There's also a gasket behind the isc that has been known to go bad from time to time, but you should be able to feel the air coming out right under your throttle body elbow if it's as bad as you said.

Also you need the engine turned to 20* (i think) ATDC, it will almost close the valves to help keep boost in.

Also a good read concerning hard to find boost leaks. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...-need-list-everything-can-cause-fuel-cut.html

I bet thats what it is. I swear it sounded like it was leaking from the downpipe because right now its got a tear in it, and sound like a buzz bomber. I removed the valve cover, and at TDC turned the engine until both #1,#2 intake valves were closed #3 was starting to open but exhaust was closed, and #4 was closed. When I did the bleeding went away. But when I applied the compressor it just started leaking back off. IT also sounded like it was coming from the EGR at the same time so there you go. Its almost like it was fooling me o think it was the intake manifold gasket. I'll research those links when I have time thanks!

 

[snakeyes711]

A little update on how it goes. I finally found my boost leak I had. It was up under the intake 2# cyl. on the bottom. I found when I pressed my finger over the area it was coning from it stopped. So I mixed up some 5 minute jb, and pushed it up inside the leak, and around that area. That sealed off great. I figure that'll do for how many times a year do you pull the intake manifold. So it holds pressure when I apply it now. I found the BISS leaks a bit, and sealed it off with some silicone.

After I fixed them all, I had to turn the boost back because it read higher then id used to at WOT. I also logged data, and found my low fuel trim is now 103% mid is 100%, high is 100%. Not bad!

WhenI was fixing the bad leak on the intake I removed the intake bracket, and knocked of the knock sensor wire. I tried to solder it back on, and fill it up with some silicone that didn't work. I found one at a local yard for 20, and threw it in. I sealed it off better before I put it in.

I found on one log my injector duty cycle was 101% at wot up to 6,500 rpms, and didn't like that. The 02 was reading .87 volts.

BTW on my logger the fuel pump shows it reads 0.03 v...WTF is that about?>

 

[rush2252]

The boost controller works after a new spring. So Vette, thanks but thats not the problem. The noise isn't like boost, its more of a tapping sound. I can't explain it without making a video remember it only does this at higher boost.

Habit, the BOV is a stock 1g. So I'm sure its fine. The tapping sound sounds like a woodpecker is spooling the turbo up at high boost....Thats as specific as I can get. The valves sound quiet when I'm listening to them at Idle then the car is hot nothing.

I checked turbo shaft play, and thats good. Heres the thing last night, I hit fuel cut one time in 2nd gear(scared the shit outta me) After that the sound was gone for a while. thats why I'm asking about the injectors

theres 122 posts at this time and i dont wanna read through them all but im sure somebody will chime up and say the 1g lifters are notorious for clicking. Install the revised3gs this is most likely your ticking noise

 

[snakeyes711]

I got it fixed thanks. I found, after the knock sensor broke, the CEL stayed on, and EVERY time i mean every time I hit the gas the knock went straight to 9, and stayed there until you let off the gas. I never seen anything like it.

Today I'm getting ready to go pick up a crank pulley, fix that, and the flex pipe. I'll be good to go, I found the exhaust being broken right there runs the knock count up more too. After that I'll be good. Also that STP octane booster, and a little 93 is your friend! what a difference. I'm going to try that bottle of 104oct. next time.