done with maint.

[snakeyes711]

So, after buying this basket case its coming together nice. So heres what I have done so far.

New transmission
Changed fluid in tranny, case, and rear diff.
new Transfer case
St. 1 exedy clutch
both front drive shafts
attached rear drive shaft, and got it bolted in.
Timing belt kit/new pulleys, and water pump
I did the basic stuff too, cleaned the IC, cut the back panel out. removed plug in BCS rest.
reset WOT, adjusted clutch travel. fixed boost leaks.

Is there anything I have forgotten to do you can think of tell me. Oh, I need to check base timing. It should be +5 at Idle?

I've basically done all the preventative maint. that was neglected when I bought the car.

I was going to get a 190, and a small 16g, and have it tuned but what else should I do that needs done first?

oh, I did a 2g exhaust manifold with new gaskets today the old manifold has about a half dozen cracks in it one almost wrapped all the way around between #2, and #3 on the right side of the turbo

I been shopping for a boost gauge for it. I can't seem to find a good two gauge combo. I was going to get boos t,and oil pressure.

 

[snakeyes711]

oh, the guy with the palm 505 said its got a usb port. can i get a converter to adapt it to a serial? or will that not work?

 

[habitatguy187]

oh, the guy with the palm 505 said its got a usb port. can i get a converter to adapt it to a serial? or will that not work?

Mine plugs into the computer via usb, I don't think you can use palm n' stein through usb though, but mmcd is really all you need.

 

[snakeyes711]

I picked up a m105 from local flea. Spent some time at radio shack, and fifteen minutes later I had the software downloaded, and was logging. NICE! I really like mmcd. But this pda is only black&white. I'll upgrade later the guy didn't have a lot of them with a cord for it. I'm going to pick up a m130 so I have color, and back light.

I foun d at idle my car has -2* timing. I was unsuccessful at setting base timing. it just keeps -2*or so at 750 rpm.

I also did a few runs, and got 22 counts in knock up in high rpms 4-5k or so I said 22 counts, and pulls timing almost completely. up till it gets knock count its +20 degrees.

 

[habitatguy187]

I also did a few runs, and got 22 counts in knock up in high rpms 4-5k or so I said 22 counts, and pulls timing almost completely. up till it gets knock count its +20 degrees.

22 counts is a lot, how much boost are you running again? And this is on a 14b right? Also what octane gas are you using?

 

[toofast82]

I foun d at idle my car has -2* timing. I was unsuccessful at setting base timing. it just keeps -2*or so at 750 rpm.

I also did a few runs, and got 22 counts in knock up in high rpms 4-5k or so I said 22 counts, and pulls timing almost completely. up till it gets knock count its +20 degrees.

On the logger, timing at idle should be 8*. There is obviously an issue there. The 1g timing curve is also rather aggressive for high boost on pump gas- how much boost are you running?

 

[snakeyes711]

Yeah its said i had 8* or so. it will flip between 7. The boost is turned up to 14-16psi. Its on 93. I turned the boost back a little after I got the timing set where it is at 7-8. I made a run in third gear on the highway. It got up to 10 counts at almost 6k. But the timing never dropped past 15* during.

BTW before I set timing at idle it was -1 or -2.

 

[snakeyes711]

I can't get this base timing set. Last night it was at 7-9 at idle. This morning Its sitting on 0-2* at idlle on the logger?...... WTF? Last night after setting it

 

[toofast82]

I can't get this base timing set. Last night it was at 7-9 at idle. This morning Its sitting on 0-2* at idlle on the logger?...... WTF? Last night after setting it

Engine Timing

 

[snakeyes711]

I've done that....I'm going to harbor freight tools they got cheap timing lights for 15 dollars. I also found out that in MMCD, under preferences it said base timing was 7. I'll change that. Should I change it to what I set the base too?

Thanks!

 

[toofast82]

I've done that....I'm going to harbor freight tools they got cheap timing lights for 15 dollars. I also found out that in MMCD, under preferences it said base timing was 7. I'll change that. Should I change it to what I set the base too?

Thanks!

You're base timing on the engine is 5btdc, but on your ecu's actual timing maps its 8* at idle, which is what you should see at idle on the logger. Youre engine timing needs to be set so that the 8* at idle is in fact 8* If you set your timing at 3btdc,(which some do to lower timing up top 2*, to eliminate knock,etc) it will not show up as 6* on the logger, those are adjustments you need to make in your head.
I would pull the ecu out to see if the previous owner put a custom eprom in it
Hope this helps

 

[habitatguy187]

I would pull the ecu out to see if the previous owner put a custom eprom in it.

While you're in there - 89-94 Capacitor Replacement

 

[snakeyes711]

You just blew my mind with all that degree talk. I think I picked up most of what you laid down there though.
How will I tell if its Eprom?

Habitatguy, thats good information. But I think I'm going to hold off on that for I'd be my luck that I'd screw the board up. BTW My dpwn pipe has split where the flex pipe is if Its not one thing its another!
I'm going outside to put this timing light on in a few.

 

[snakeyes711]

Ok, timing set I set it at 4 degree's. It was set at 10-11. WTF So should I set the palm software, base at 4 as well?

 

[snakeyes711]

WOW! I did a few runs, and some logs. Now if I can find out how to upload them to my pc that'd be great! Just to run some numbers by now. timing set at +4. I did one run where I was 99.6%tps, engine speed was 5,600, timing was 19*, and there was 4 counts of knock.! I could feel the difference in the car. OH, BTW boost sat set at 14psi.

 

[toofast82]

So you're engine timing is at 4btdc? What is your logger showing at idle? On the stock timing maps, timing at 5,000rpm is 19* and at 5,500rpm its 22* If its at 19* at 5,600rpm, than either the ecu is pulling timing, or you must have a custom chip in there? Did you have any knock before 5,600rpm? I believe the ecu starts pulling timing at either 6 or 9 counts of knock on 1gs, i forget. I would seriously take the ecu out and take the cover off.
Good to hear you are getting some improvement

 

[habitatguy187]

Habitatguy, thats good information. But I think I'm going to hold off on that for I'd be my luck that I'd screw the board up.

You need to at least look at it to see if the caps have leaked, if they have it can cause your ecu to read all kinds of crazy things, trust me I just went through it, replacing part after part only to pull my ecu and see corrosion everywhere.

I believe the ecu starts pulling timing at either 6 or 9 counts of knock on 1gs, i forget.

For some reason I thought it was 3 or 4 counts, I don't exactly remember either though.

 

[toofast82]

For some reason I thought it was 3 or 4 counts, I don't exactly remember either though.

I think it ignores 3counts and will still increase through the powerband. I believe 4-6 it holds timing where its at, and above 6 it pulls. I seriously cant remember for sure, i tried a quick google search and didnt come up with anything. thats about as far as im going with it

 

[snakeyes711]

You need to at least look at it to see if the caps have leaked, if they have it can cause your ecu to read all kinds of crazy things, trust me I just went through it, replacing part after part only to pull my ecu and see corrosion everywhere.



For some reason I thought it was 3 or 4 counts, I don't exactly remember either though.

Roger I will. BTW i read that 1g ecu's continue timing until 3 counts, then up to 7 counts it'll leave the timing alone. Then after 9 counts it pulls timing.

 

[snakeyes711]

So you're engine timing is at 4btdc? What is your logger showing at idle? On the stock timing maps, timing at 5,000rpm is 19* and at 5,500rpm its 22* If its at 19* at 5,600rpm, than either the ecu is pulling timing, or you must have a custom chip in there? Did you have any knock before 5,600rpm? I believe the ecu starts pulling timing at either 6 or 9 counts of knock on 1gs, i forget. I would seriously take the ecu out and take the cover off.
Good to hear you are getting some improvement

Yes.... So should I set the logger at under preferences at 4*? it shows 7-8* at idle. I'm going to do a few more runs. I can't upload them because I don't have windows word exel/ I'll report back a good run thats logged.

I'll check the ecu also. no knocks before that rpm range.

 

[toofast82]

Yes.... So should I set the logger at under preferences at 4*? it shows 7-8* at idle. I'm going to do a few more runs. I can't upload them because I don't have windows word exel/ I'll report back a good run thats logged.

I'll check the ecu also. no knocks before that rpm range.

timing sounds to be where it should be at idle on the logger. If there was no knock prior to 5,600rpm, than your timing should be around 22* at 5,600rpm. Get that ecu pulled out and check for a chip as well as capacitor damage.
I think you had it right on the knock sensor/timing pulling on the above post

 

[snakeyes711]

Your right at 5,625 timing was 21 only 2-3 counts of knock.

Another thing I noticed was coolant temp was 209. 213 at highest. Is it because of the type of thermostat I bought? Should I get rid of that, and get a 190 or such?

BTW Should I leave the log preference set to 5* base timing? Or change it to three so it'll show up 6*? Or what leave it at 5*.

ALso, there are two different readings for O2. One reads O2-R .84V The other reads O2-F 3.47V. Whats that about? o2 front, and o3 rear? if this is O2 front at 3.47V is that wrong? Or maybe a wideband? Or is the O2 shot?

 

[toofast82]

Sounds about right with the timing. If you can modify the timing preference for your adjustment of 3btdc, than i would do it. I would stick with a stock thermostat temperature, Your coolant temps should stay in the 190s. I forget which temperature the ecu pulls a degree of timing, but you're in the area.
The narrowband readings are useless. .84v would be kind of on the lean side with narrowband. Before i installed my wideband, my nb readings were about .83, but when i installed my lc-1, i realized my a/f was at 9.3:1(very rich). I would invest in a wideband as it makes tuning a lot easier and accurate. You're also about at the point that you wont be able to run much more boost with the aggressive 1g timing. Begin to look to a custom chip or doing your own eprom editing.

 

[habitatguy187]

.84v would be kind of on the lean side with narrowband.

It was my understanding that above .5 is rich and the ecu will pull fuel, and that below .5 is lean and that the ecu will add fuel. That's why when the o2 goes dead it reads .0 (lean) and adds tons of fuel to try and compensate.

 

[toofast82]

It was my understanding that above .5 is rich and the ecu will pull fuel, and that below .5 is lean and that the ecu will add fuel. That's why when the o2 goes dead it reads .0 (lean) and adds tons of fuel to try and compensate.

correct at stoich 14:7. Im talking about attempting to read nb readings at wot. which are useless.

 

[habitatguy187]

correct at stoich 14:7. Im talking about attempting to read nb readings at wot. which are useless.

hmmm, I have been told that they are useless but I've never fully understood why that is? Could you delve a little deeper in explaining it to me? Thanks