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1G Cross threaded pcv valve!

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RpVilleneuve

10+ Year Contributor
212
7
Jan 31, 2012
glen burnie, Maryland
Ok guys I did some searching and found most of what I needed. So this morning I was changing my pcv valve and it got hard to turn. I backed it out only to see that it had gotten cross thredded. So i need to pull the valve cover and bust out the good ol tap and die set. My first question is what kind of rtv do I use for the 1/2 moon? I went on amazon and there is about 50 kinds. My next question is if I retread the hole won't it be to big for a pcv valve the? I really don't have the money to buy another vc right this moment. I do have a catch can I can put in but I had to move the car to park it and it wouldn't stay running..... can I get a bigger pcv valve??????????
 
Solution
Also, make sure you are threading the PCV in at an upward angle. It doesn't thread in level like you might expect.

This is the best advice. Also, the threads are 1/8 BSPT, NOT NPT. The difference is 1 thread per inch so they are close, but not close enough.
A thread chaser might be able to repair the existing threads but I'm not sure what the thread size/pitch is. Typically if you tap a hole it's going to end up being slightly bigger. You might be able to find a heli-coil that will fit the PCV valve threads. I use a thin layer of RTV ultra grey on valve cover gasket and half moon.
 
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Since your low on cash, heres an idea. If the PCV valve will still thread in several turns then I would wrap it with thread seal tape (teflon tape) and thread it back in tight. Then later on just buy another valve cover.
 
I use ultra grey for the VC and half moon also, seems to work perfect, no leaks.
 
I cant get the pcv valve to thread at all. I had a straight fitting I tried to thread to no avail. So I'm just going to retap the valve cover and finish the egr/emmissions delete that the po started. I just ordered the block off plate and some more vacuum plate. Then I'll just put on a straight fitting and put the catch can I bought on....

So just to confirm, a thin layer of rtv ultra gray on the actual gasket and the half moon. What are the torque specs for the vc bolts.
 
I use Permatex "Right Stuff" for mine. Was recommended to me by a friend who is a mechanic.

Also, make sure you are threading the PCV in at an upward angle. It doesn't thread in level like you might expect.
 
So since a torque wrench is usually in ft/lbs, if you have or can rent/borrow a inch/lb small torque wrench go 24-36 inch pounds.
 
***Don't over torque your bolts what ever you do**** BE CAREFUL

The steal bolts are harder than your aluminum head and you will strip your threads again , or you will Crack your valve cover

Get a good torque wrench you can rent them from canadian tire or any parts store really or you can judge how tight they are but it's risky business LOL
Teflon tape will help when you rethread the pcv to help it seal

*****Ps I've noticed on 2 valve covers I've done on my car that the pcv will be at a slight angle downwards don't go to far cause she will Crack*****
 
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Also, make sure you are threading the PCV in at an upward angle. It doesn't thread in level like you might expect.

This is the best advice. Also, the threads are 1/8 BSPT, NOT NPT. The difference is 1 thread per inch so they are close, but not close enough.
 
Solution
Well I've decided to say screw the pcv valve all together. I just need to figure out what size straight fitting I will need once I tap it. My plan it to go to with the "race only" emmissions delete diagram. That way I don't have to tap my fp turbo inlet. Plus when it comes to vacuum lines and emmissions crap less is better. I had an idle surge. That's why I was changing the pcv in the first place. So i ordered so far; new vc gasket, ultra gray rtv, 50ft vacuum tube, variety pack vacuum t's/straights/bends, variety pack vacuum nipples, MAP egr block off plate w/gasket, I think that's everything. Oh and I need a torque wrench that does inch/lb instead of ft lb. Also already have a catchcan. Anything else you guys can think of?

Also, thanks for all the replies guys.

http://web.archive.org/web/20040621102025/www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions.htm

That is the diagram I am going to follow for the "race only" setup. Let me know if anyone things that's a bad idea.
 
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Where did you tap the vacuum source? What size fitting and hose? My street car has a regular 4" intake so I could just drill that and tap a futting.

I'm using -8AN lines. I had a shop weld a 3/8 hose barb on my FP intake for vacuum source. My setup is 2 IN and 1 OUT.
 
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This is the best advice. Also, the threads are 1/8 BSP, NOT NPT. The difference is 1 thread per inch so they are close, but not close enough.
Yes, the correct tap is a tapered tap not a straight tap or fitting. Easy fix with the tap, retap & screw the PVC in.
 
Well thanks to 95GSTowner and jafromobiles's newest video I got my catch can and tubing plan of attack ready to go. Now re-taping the valve cover has me loosing sleep. Ok, I understand the current thread is 1/8 BSPT. I have a straight through fitting that came with my catch can I was going to use.... Can I retap the valve cover using a standard tap set???? I really appriciate all the help guys. It sucks that this happened, but it got my lazy tail in gear to get all this sorted out.
 
You could always have it welded shut and then drill it out and tap it with the proper 1/8" BSPT thread. Just a idea. Good luck!
 
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