CrankWalk Poll [merged]

[ChrisHKS]

im starting this forum like a poll. i want to know (and sure others too) how many of you tuners have actually gotten crank walk on there 2g and wanna hear all the people that havent. please just leave a reply if u have gotten it or not. thanx-greatly appreciated

just wanna see how common everyone makes it seem

 

[1_vicious_gsx]

Originally posted by Chadsc


I was told by a mechanic at the dealership near me that a major cause of CW that he had seen was dumping the clutch under extreme power (mostly modified cars), so thats why I was under the impression that if your not too rough on it then its not as bad a problem.

I wouldn't let that mechanic work on my car. Ask yourself this, how would releasing the clutch quickly damage the thrust bearing? All you have done is quickly release the pressure against the thrust bearing.

 

[Chadsc]

Thanks for the info. I will keep that in mind. A little off the subject of CW, I am going to soon get a clutch kit and also while I am at it throw in a new Flyhweel any recomendations? I am not going for all drag raceing type clutch, but I want something that will handle more future power and last me a good while.

 

[1_vicious_gsx]

ACT 2100 or ClutchMasters stage 1 thru 3
Fidanza or ClutchMasters billet flywheel

 

[Chadsc]

So not an ACT2600? I have read more on people getting those than 2100? What about a dual friction clutch? I am guessing the flyhweels you are referring to are aluminum cause thats all I have seen.

 

[1_vicious_gsx]

Originally posted by Chadsc
So not an ACT2600? I have read more on people getting those than 2100? What about a dual friction clutch? I am guessing the flyhweels you are referring to are aluminum cause thats all I have seen.

If crankwalk is a concern for you, then go with the ACT 2100. The 2600 is a heavier clutch which would make crankwalk easier to get. The ClutchMasters stage 1 thru 3 use the same pressure plate (2100 or 2300, I just can't remember off the top of my head). The 2600 is used because of it's ability to hold more power. With you car being front wheel drive the 2100 should hold fine unless you are using slicks and a limited slip diff.

Don't get a "lightened" flywheel, they seem to like shattering at times. The billets are they way to go. The stock flywheel weighs 18lbs, the lightened one range from 11-14lbs and the billets weigh 8lbs. If you are going to spend the $$$, get the billet. Both of those I mentioned have replaceable disk surfaces so you don't have turn them when replacing the clutch disc.

 

[Chadsc]

This is all true. Oh, thanks for the wieght of the stock flywheel I had been looking for it but wasn't able to find it. So I am now going to make sure its a 8 lb and replaceable surface. As far as the clutch goes I want to at some point in time get up over 400HP will the act 2100 handle this?

 

[1_vicious_gsx]

Originally posted by Chadsc
This is all true. Oh, thanks for the wieght of the stock flywheel I had been looking for it but wasn't able to find it. So I am now going to make sure its a 8 lb and replaceable surface. As far as the clutch goes I want to at some point in time get up over 400HP will the act 2100 handle this?

Yes on street tires, will hold on slicks and limited slip, but is getting close to needing something stronger.

 

[decibel]

My 95 Tsi finally crankwalked but after 196k+. New short block going in this weekend after 3 weeks of gathering parts.

 

[Chadsc]

196K thats pretty damn good! Have you had any other major engine work done? Are you rebuilding lower engine or the whole thing? Sounds like you are going to rebuild from top to bottom.

 

[kmartind]

Actually there could be a slight difference. When you slam down the clutch to shift, the full release pressure hits the crank very fast, and it could actually be _slightly_ more pressure (basically just opposing force generated by the mass of the disk pushing off) than pressing it in moderately fast. Also, frequent and quick application and removal of force repeatedly could have a slight "hammering" affect. I wouldn't imagine it being a big deal, since we are already talking about 2100 or 2600 lbs, but that might be what this mechanic was trying to refer to. Everyone seems to have their own little theory about crankswalk, but no one can either prove what causes it or completely prevent it in every car, so there isn't much point completely discounting any theory (unless it's impossible, for instance if somoene claimed crankwalk was caused by a faulty windshield wiper).

 

[Chadsc]

Thanks for your input kmartind I am just still not sure which clutch to go with? Need a vote pole on what clutch everyone is using. Anyone want to set one up? Or there one somewhere that I haven't seen.

 

[kmartind]

It's a tough choice for us 2g people. Road Race likes the "new" Centerforce Dual Friction H-D Ball Bearing Pivot clutch (except for all-out race cars) and rates it higher than the ACT2100 (with street disk) for launching:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm

Extreme tends to prefer Clutch Masters (esp the HDSB2500):
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/clutch.htm

And pretty much everyone agrees the ACT2600 with street disk is a good strong, durable clutch, but there is much speculation on it's tendency to accellerate the appearance of crankwalk on 2Gs, increased pedal pressure (which isn't ideal for a lot of city driving), and it's likely to be harder on the transmission, etc.

A couple of other combinations some people run are:
- ACT2100 with a race disc (which can reportedly be noisy and hard on the transmission, but won't overheat and turn to kitty hair). Less pressure than the 2600, but similar (even a little better) holding.
- Centerforce with an ACT or stock disc (which Centerforce specifically says not to do, but some people have good luck with it).

I think the general consensus on Centerforce is: Less pedal pressure (which is good on a daily driver), much better than stock holding ability but easier to slip than a ACT2600 (which can be easier on hard parts), and probably less chance of accellerating crankwalk; but no repeated launches without cooling down between or you'll definately kill it.

By sheer numbers the ACT2600 is probably installed on the most cars (but I'm not sure how the numbers would break down between 1g, 2g, awd, fwd). I see a lot of 2g FWD and a fair number of 2g AWD cars with something else.

 

[Chadsc]

Ok let me throw this variable into the equation. I also plan on getting a new flywheel/disk at the same time as the clutch. As far as the hard pedal goes that doesn't bother me one bit. I had an Accord 86 Lxi 5spd HTCH/BCK and the clutch that I started with was harder to press down than any truck or anything else I had ever driven. My clutch went out and then it became a soft easy pedal and I never liked it again. The Eclipse stock clutch is way to easy to press down in my opinion so if its creature comfort we are talking about here then I really would rather prefer performance and durabilty. So again I say flywheel/clutch combo whats the general consensius? Thanks btw for giving me something to think about if I decide to not change the flywheel, but damn if I don't want to go from 19lbs to 8lbs. Btw whats avg HP gain on switching flywheels? Whew....long winded there but I think I got the point across.

 

[kmartind]

I guess if you don't care about pedal feel and aren't overly concerned with crankwalk or being a little more harsh on hard parts, you can't go wrong with the ACT2600. Lots of people have have had very good luck with it, a few, not so good. I'd guess making 400HP could probably destroy a 2100 relatively fast with slicks/LSD (especially with repeated launches). And I agree with 1_vicious_gsx on the flywheel, if you're going to replace it at all, do it right and get a nice strong billet flywheel, not something that might explode and cause major damage.
If concerned about crankwalk and want the clutch to be the weak point rather than more expensive things like the transmission, then one of the other options might be preferable (ACT2100, CFDF, Clutchmasters), and just take it a little easier and be prepared to replace it a little sooner.

 

[1_vicious_gsx]

I have the ClutchMasters 2500lb plate and sprung 4button ceramic disc. Love it.

 

[kmartind]

A CM stage IV? Isn't that hard to get used to? Is it noisy? I have almost no experience with CM. Anyway, I guess we're talking about crankwalk here, so in that respect it should be better than the ACT2600, and probably holds very well.

 

[Cablefed]

How about this. 7 bolt rebuild at 22k and got CW after 6 miles on the car. The car drops RPM's when I press the clutch in. ACT2600 on a fresh motor don't mix. I have to pull the motor and replace the thrust and mains plus downgrade the pressure plate.

If you have anything to say about rebuilding a 7 bolt I don't want to hear it.

 

[1_vicious_gsx]

Originally posted by kmartind
A CM stage IV? Isn't that hard to get used to? Is it noisy? I have almost no experience with CM. Anyway, I guess we're talking about crankwalk here, so in that respect it should be better than the ACT2600, and probably holds very well.

You will have to adjust your normal driving a little. This is a clutch that wants to grab and hold, I stalled my car a few times from a stop until I got used to it. It does not slip under power, HOLDS THE POWER. Does not make any noise. The sprung hub works well.

 

[1LE]

Is the RPS turbo clutch still available? That's what's in my car. It's a few years old now, and has not a lot of miles, but they're very hard miles (rally, track days, drag race, and the occasional drives to work when my daily driver is down for repairs) and it's still working great. Very light, grabs firmly with no chatter. I plan on doing a CFDF though when it fails eventually. Nothing against the RPS, I'm just a lot more familiar with CenterForce.

 

[malern28us]

I currently have a Clutchnet stage III (I believe) in my car. Basically bone stock except for intake/filter. It took awhile to get used to my clutch after it was put in d/t light pedal feel. I was told it was good to 400 ft/lbs of torque and it was only $300. I am very happy with it!

 

[eclipsegsx9797]

124k miles on a stock 7 bolt

 

[DSMSpyder99]

38,000 miles on my 99 no CW I also dont fear CW BRING IT ON

 

[gsxtacy]

It doesn't even really matter.

CW happens in both 6 and 7 bolt. Early and new.

Just expect it to happen with the abuse we dish to our cars.

You can get replacement everything.

Owning a DSM is a matter of $$ for what you love to do.

GSXTACY

 

[powerdbydsm]

had 2 motors now.

1 with 90,000 no CW with a ACT 2600 and a FWD
1 with 220,000 no CW 95 AWD.

guess im just lucky.

 

[Generation X]

I'm currently using the ACT 2100 clutch and the XACT flywheel which weighs 11lbs, compared to the stock flywheel which weighs 19lbs. I'm also using a BM-Tranny LSD insert with the ACT combination, and everything seems to be working flawlessly. The Xact flywheel is not billet but it is chromoly forged steel which makes it a decent strong flywheel, and you can resurface it a couple of times depending on how much or how hard it is abused. If I had an awd I would probably go with a Fidanza. IMO trying not to spin through 1st gear in a high powered fwd is already a big task trying to control, let alone adding a light weight flywheel which will only cause it to spin even more. I think the XACT flywheel is a good balance between a stocker and a Fidanza, especially for us traction limited fwd's. I currently have 78,600 miles on my 97 GST, and I have yet to experience any signs of the dreaded CW, but it will always be on my mind. If it happens, it happens.