The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Crank Walk (engine bogs and stalls when clutch is pressed in)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

teknicalissue

10+ Year Contributor
303
4
Oct 18, 2010
Front Royal, Virginia
Hey guys!

So it turns out that my new used 2g is giving me some issues and i think it maybe crank walk.

This morning i turned it on and there was a loud knocking sound coming from the engine bay. I opened the hood and the noise was coming from the middle of the engine (by the manifold not by the timing belt)

i turned it off and turned it back on and i heard something break and fall below the car.. honestly i thought it was a piece of ice or something caught on the belts.

I drove off to the highway not looking back..

after im driving for a bit, my check engine light turns off (its been on about my oil pressure sensor) which i find really weird...and as im coming to stop in traffic.. i press on the clutch and the engine bogs down and dies. i turn it on and im at really low idles 100 - 0 and if i don't give it gas it stalls out.

being as i was on the highway i kept driving it to work only to find that the motor has no strength to it at all, i give it gas and it barely wants to do anything.. the turbo helps a little but its clear that its missing some power.

once i got to work, i noticed smoke coming from the engine bay, i opened the hood and it looks like its coming to the right of the manifold. i gave it gas by the throttle and there was that knocking sound (like bent valves) but as i let go of the throttle, it tries to stall out but no more knocking..

i have a feeling that when i get out of work and the engine cools up... its not coming back on...

anyone have any ideas as to what this might be?
 
You are saying crank walk and then asking what it might be.

NEVER, never assume crank walk until you actually check the end play at the crank.
 
Ok, so did the noise stop after it "fell off?" If it did not stop, why are you still driving it?!

Did you confirm that the engine light for the switch was just a switch problem or that you are having actual oil pressure issues?

The loss of power could be due to an exhaust leak. The manifold gasket, could be bad or the manifold itself could be cracked or both. since you said it was smoking from the manifold I'd bet that it's leaking. since turbos depend on exhaust flow, you'll see a loss in power if the exhaust gasses are escaping before they reach the turbo. Also, a leaking manifold gasket will cause some noise; like a ticking type sound. If you are hearing more of a knock... please DO NOT keep running the car without further diagnosis.

The low idle/stalling can be a variety of things, from a bad IAC motor, vacuum leaks, the BISS being out of adjustment, boost leaks, ect. Are you venting your BOV with the MAF in the stock location? This could cause the stalling issue since the MAF was reading a certain amount of air that all of a sudden dissapered via the BOV. It acts like a giant boost leak set up like this.

Hope that helps some and good luck!

Chances are this is not crankwalk. LOL
 
Ok, so did the noise stop after it "fell off?" If it did not stop, why are you still driving it?!

LOL either i come to work or get fired =P either way i loose XD

Did you confirm that the engine light for the switch was just a switch problem or that you are having actual oil pressure issues?

well not the switch, the wire to it broke off completely (it was like that when i bought the car)

The loss of power could be due to an exhaust leak. The manifold gasket, could be bad or the manifold itself could be cracked or both. since you said it was smoking from the manifold I'd bet that it's leaking. since turbos depend on exhaust flow, you'll see a loss in power if the exhaust gasses are escaping before they reach the turbo.

Understood, the noise is still there, its loud ticking, like bent valves ticking.

Also, a leaking manifold gasket will cause some noise; like a ticking type sound. If you are hearing more of a knock... please DO NOT keep running the car without further diagnosis.

i don't think ill be driving the car for the rest of the day

The low idle/stalling can be a variety of things, from a bad IAC motor, vacuum leaks, the BISS being out of adjustment, boost leaks, ect. Are you venting your BOV with the MAF in the stock location? This could cause the stalling issue since the MAF was reading a certain amount of air that all of a sudden dissapered via the BOV. It acts like a giant boost leak set up like this.

it never did it before until the sound of something snapping off happened, so i don't think its the location of the maf and bov (they're stock)

Hope that helps some and good luck!

Chances are this is not crankwalk. LOL

i hope so... if i have to get a new car then that means i can't afford a new house =(
 
Ok thanks for the clarifications. :)

Ticking.. I'm almost willing to bet you are looking at a very large exhaust leak. Does that side of the manifold have a lot of black carbon buildup around the port? I know when I had a manifold gasket fail, the car made a considerably loud ticking noise. Does the car sound loud overall, as well? Oh yeah, also check the 4 bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold. Those can work their way loose and cause *another* exhaust leak. LOL
 
Ok thanks for the clarifications. :)

np

Ticking.. I'm almost willing to bet you are looking at a very large exhaust leak. Does that side of the manifold have a lot of black carbon buildup around the port? I know when I had a manifold gasket fail, the car made a considerably loud ticking noise. Does the car sound loud overall, as well? Oh yeah, also check the 4 bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold. Those can work their way loose and cause *another* exhaust leak. LOL

Ticking.. it would make sense.. perhaps something broke on the filter and shot up to the manifold? one things for certain there is ticking either coming from the manifold or the head... it sounds more from the manifold as it sounds like a dry ticking... kind of like when you kit a marble on a marble floor, same kind of tick.

there is alot of smoke and it smells like exhaust.. when im out of work, ill head down there and trouble shoot a bit more.

it does not sound load though, the car still sounds the same.
 
....first mistake was assuming its crank walk. It is because of kids like you that the DSM's receive this reputation that all the cars "crank walk" and are garbage.

On to the main point, is this a ticking or an actual clunking. It shoulds like bent valves you said? Then pull the head and find out. At least take off the valve cover and see if a lifter is stuck.
 
....first mistake was assuming its crank walk. It is because of kids like you that the DSM's receive this reputation that all the cars "crank walk" and are garbage.

I don't have much experience with dsm's as of yet.. from when i researched online, the clutch and engine bogging down was a symptom of crank walk.. i didn't just assume out of the blue.

On to the main point, is this a ticking or an actual clunking. It shoulds like bent valves you said? Then pull the head and find out. At least take off the valve cover and see if a lifter is stuck.

Its def not a clunk, like i said the marble on a marble floor type sound, or as a better example, grabbing a pebble and hitting it against the manifold. They produce somewhat identical sounds as to what i'm hearing. if you don't give it gas, it doesn't tick, it only happens when the rpms are at about 2.5k and up. im stuck at work right now, and beleive me i have tools in the car so when i get the chance i'm checking the valves
 
All us keyboard mechanics are not there so take everything we say with a little salt or better yet a little sugar.

You might be on to something with the crankwalk simply because I cant think of a lot of things that would cause a decent idling motor to bog because you pushed the clutch in which should make it easier for the motor to run you would think. But, it might not be at all as well.

At least pull your oil cap and dipstick and look for metal shavings or anything unusual.

I highly doubt that by letting the car sit its going to get any better, start lining up a tow now so hopefully someone with a trailer can help you when your off work.

First thing I would do is pop the valve cover since its easiest and see if there was a bent valve that is getting stuck.

Sorry about your day.
Best of luck.
 
Is there any chance that what you heard hitting the ground was a piece of your clutch? And the noise you hear is a broken clutch pressure plate finger and somehow when you push the clutch in it binds up and kills the motor but when its idling its ok. I know this is a longshot and might not fit the description perfectly but sometimes these cars are not as strait forward as it may seem. Heck, I'd even take a glance at my harmonic balancer to see if its still ok.
 
All us keyboard mechanics are not there so take everything we say with a little salt or better yet a little sugar.

You might be on to something with the crankwalk simply because I cant think of a lot of things that would cause a decent idling motor to bog because you pushed the clutch in which should make it easier for the motor to run you would think. But, it might not be at all as well.

At least pull your oil cap and dipstick and look for metal shavings or anything unusual.

funny that you say that.. there are metal shavings around where you screw in the oil cap (mixed with oil)

I highly doubt that by letting the car sit its going to get any better, start lining up a tow now so hopefully someone with a trailer can help you when your off work.

First thing I would do is pop the valve cover since its easiest and see if there was a bent valve that is getting stuck.

Sorry about your day.
Best of luck.

agreed, i believe im going to do this now on lunch.. maybe look a bit more in to the metal shavings i found..

Is there any chance that what you heard hitting the ground was a piece of your clutch? And the noise you hear is a broken clutch pressure plate finger and somehow when you push the clutch in it binds up and kills the motor but when its idling its ok. I know this is a longshot and might not fit the description perfectly but sometimes these cars are not as strait forward as it may seem. Heck, I'd even take a glance at my harmonic balancer to see if its still ok.

i doubt its the clutch (although it would be nice LOL). the car was still drivable even after it kept stalling on me
 
All us keyboard mechanics are not there so
I highly doubt that by letting the car sit its going to get any better, start lining up a tow now so hopefully someone with a trailer can help you when your off work.

What in the world? i just turned on the car and its working nicely, no stalls, nice power, what the heck?

Could this be symptoms of high oil pressure????

after work i'm gonna drive around and if it happens again when the engine is hot.. id blame it on a bad head gasket
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you found metal shavings... DO NOT drive it around! Metal should never be in the oil; that does mean something internally has broke. If you keep running it; you will cause more damage. Time for a teardown to see what failed.
 
Metal in the oil = no more driving. The issue now could potentially be salvageable but if you keep driving then you may end up needing a whole new motor including a head depending on the damage.
 
Pics of said shavings?

Tow car home and then drian the oil. see if you have any metal in the oil. If you do, Then DO NOT DRIVE IT, if not then check more into what caused the noise. Try pulling off the timing cover and see if everything is fine.
 
Pics of said shavings?

Tow car home and then drian the oil. see if you have any metal in the oil. If you do, Then DO NOT DRIVE IT, if not then check more into what caused the noise. Try pulling off the timing cover and see if everything is fine.

hmm i've been looking on google and i have not found anything that might look like what i found when i removed the cap. If i were to explain it.. it looked like glitter :| no joke... ill see if i can take a good pic with the phone.. its a very fine metal..

i didn't see any on the dip stick. Ill tow the car home just to be sure.. its my only car and i can't afford it braking completely.

on the other hand.. Its not the alternator (read online that it could be the cause of my symptoms) and its not crank walk (or else it would be doing the same thing cold)

the only thing not stock in my car is the sound system i installed 2 days ago, would wiring have anything to do with it? recently someone tried to brake in my car and cut the top.. i tried to seal it to the best of my abilities but water still gets in around the amp and on the the seat.

i put things like towels and boxes to prevent them getting wet.. could this be caused by an electrical problem? it rained pretty heavily yesterday?
 
Towed it to the mechanic.. and well the pop i heard was the oil pump going out..

drove the car from ashburn to warrenton without the oil pump = no oil flow = bad

all in all, mechanic said he'd pop the motor open to see whats salvageable but he thinks i may need a
new motor (block and head)

just updating you guys =/
 
he opened it up and he said its too much damage and that we'll need to replace the whole long block. (hes a buddy of mine, hes not charging me to put in a new motor)

my budget is 1500 and as im looking at ebay i see a 4g63 EVO engine for around that price range, heres the link.. do you guys think it would fit? it looks like the cams are all the way to the left instead of the right.

JDM 4G63 Turbo, EVO 4, EVO 3, EVO 5 Engine 4G63T Motor - eBay (item 170614089814 end time Mar-20-11 10:08:05 PDT)

if not, what would you recommend i do, its my DD but i do like to go fast =)

here is the answer to my question:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...-will-evo-engine-fit-into-2g-eclipse-gst.html

some say yes some say no.. which is it?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top