The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Idles too low and dies when clutch is pressed in

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

noRys

Probationary Member
27
0
Mar 30, 2005
D-Town, Iowa
Over the weekend I replaced the timing belt, balance belt, water pump, and etc. I also did the free mods with removing the honeycomb and silencer. I also had a fuel leak due to two cracked injectors… when I pulled the injectors for some reason I don’t think the injectors I had were stock 450s. The reason why I don’t think they were 450s is because they were brown tops instead of blue tops. I replaced the old crack ones with good 450s.

I started the car up and everything sounded/idled fine and the fuel leak problem was fixed. I took it for a test drive… now once in awhile when I drive and let’s say I’m going to take a turn and press in the clutch to downshift… when I press in the clutch the RPMs sometimes drop so low it kills the car. Sometimes it will catch itself (around 500) and raise the RPMs. The car starts up fine when I restart it.

Please help because this is no fun when I get off an interstare ramp going at a pretty good pace and the car shuts down on me :notgood:

I tried resetting the ECU and still no improvements.
 
I would bet you have a open atmosphere bov don't you? The bov is probably leaking and the mass air is detecting that and trying to correct the problem. Let me know if you don't have a open atmosphere bov and i will go from there.
 
dsmotorsports said:
I would bet you have a open atmosphere bov don't you? The bov is probably leaking and the mass air is detecting that and trying to correct the problem. Let me know if you don't have a open atmosphere bov and i will go from there.

The bov is a stock 1g recirculating back into the intake.
 
dsmotorsports said:
I would bet you have a open atmosphere bov don't you? The bov is probably leaking and the mass air is detecting that and trying to correct the problem. Let me know if you don't have a open atmosphere bov and i will go from there.
I kinda have the same problem,I have a Greddy type R and its open atmosphere.Does open or recirc. make that big of a difference?my car smells rich to and I've been fighting this problem since I bought the car.
:confused:
 
gurmanator said:
I kinda have the same problem,I have a Greddy type R and its open atmosphere.Does open or recirc. make that big of a difference?:confused:
Yes.

noRys said:
when I pulled the injectors for some reason I don’t think the injectors I had were stock 450s. The reason why I don’t think they were 450s is because they were brown tops instead of blue tops. I replaced the old crack ones with good 450s.
It's very possible that your original suspicion was right and you're now running two different sets of injectors with different flow rates.
 
steve said:
Please check the markings on the side of the injectors.

Also check to make sure that the Idle Position Switch is working and that you have a good ISC. If both work then follow the FSM procedure for setting the base idle speed.

Steve

Idle Position Switch? Where is that and how do I check if its good?
 
It's on the back side (firewall) of the throttle body with a single green wire connected to the spade connector. You may still have the black rubber boot covering the connector.

With the throttle closed it grounds that wire from the ECU, with the throttle slightly open the switch opens and the wire floats at battery voltage. This is how the ECU knows that the throttle is closed and that it should manage the idle speed with the Idle Speed Controller.

The VFAQ site has a page on how to check the ISC.

Steve
 
steve said:
It's on the back side (firewall) of the throttle body with a single green wire connected to the spade connector. You may still have the black rubber boot covering the connector.

With the throttle closed it grounds that wire from the ECU, with the throttle slightly open the switch opens and the wire floats at battery voltage. This is how the ECU knows that the throttle is closed and that it should manage the idle speed with the Idle Speed Controller.

The VFAQ site has a page on how to check the ISC.

Steve

I checked the ISC and its good. If my BOV recirculating hose is slightly kinked will it give me the problems I have? I don't think I need to adjust the base idle speed because I'm idling right at 750.
 
Well guys I'm still having this problem and its getting frustrating.

Variables I have ruled out:
- Tested ISC and it was good
- Replace MAS with unhacked MAS with all the screens still intact
- Replace some accordion looking hose that I was using to recirculate back to the BOV that I thought had a kink. I replaced it with a stock factory hose

Have any of you guys ever run into this problem when upgrading to larger injectors? Because I swear the original injectors that was on the car were 390s (brown top) instead of 450s. This is the only variable left that I can see since I didn't mess with anything else because before it was running fine.

If this makes a difference; only does this when it is fully warmed up.

What should I do next?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I was having that problem not too long ago and what fixed it kind of stunned me. Check the wire that goes to the power steering pump. This sends a signal to raise the idle during turning. I can't really explain the connection between the two but it solved my stalling whenever I pushed in the clutch. Just an idea. It is located on the side of the power steering pump closest to the radiator. Just a single wire that hooks up to the lead on the pump. Mine was nearly frayed in half and not even connected.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top