Car Dies When Clutch is Pressed Over 2k RPM....Help!

[97DSM_Spyder]

<1997 Eclipse GS-T Spyder>

Ok, I am new to DSMs and learning about this ISC problem. I do believe I have a bad ISC (I havent tested it yet). I dont really have to much idle surge and if I do its only from about 750/800 - 950/1000k RPM. But I know my timing is off. However, I have a situation and have read about the ISC problems everywhere and nothing really matches my symptoms. ONLY when I press in the clutch, and rev over 2000k RPMs, does my car die. Doesnt matter what speed I am going (10/20/50+ MPH) it will still die if I push in the clutch when the RPMs are over 2000k. Is this a possible ISC problem/symptom? As I have said I have searched everywhere but with no real solid answers. My gut says ISC, but then again this is my first possible problem with one. I would appreciate ANY feedback that I can get from you guys. Thanks in advance.


Note: I also have a "burning rubber" type smell whenever it dies and I have to start it like 2 or 3 times in a row. Any insight on that?

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

We sorta need more info.

 

[Jeff99GS]

Do you have your Blow off Valve VENTED or Recirculated?

Did you check for Any Vac/ Boost Leaks?

 

[97DSM_Spyder]

I dont know what additional information to give you. Thats what it is doing. My mod list is updated so I dont think you need much more information. As for bumping my thread, no disrespect, but I think your just looking for your proven status. If you cant give any help, please, dont post. Thanks.

Jeff, no I dont have any boost/vacuum leaks. Also, I am running recirculated.

 

[Jeff99GS]

If you're 1000% sure there are NO Vac/Boost leaks then I would look at adjusting the BISS screw a Little...and check the ISC (idle speed control) which is in the lower half of the throttle body.

ARE you sure you put a BOOST leak tester on the car and cheked that Intake system thoroughly for leaking??? Or did you just LOOK at some vac lines to make sure they appear tight??

 

[97DSM_Spyder]

I have the ISC pulled right now. I dont have a multimeter so I am gonna take it to autozoen later on today on my lunch break. I didnt actually use a boost leak tester to determine whether or not I have a boost leak. But I inspected the lines very carefully and it doesnt seem to have any leaks. I guess I will have to use a tester. I checked for the o-ring on the ISC and its there. I cant check for the o-ring on the BISS cause I cant back it out all the way (Do I have to take off the TB to check for the o-ring?). could it not be backing out all the way because there is not an o-ring? It sits flush with the housing when I try to back it out all the way.

Oh and I have already tried adjusting the BISS. It lowers and raises the RPMs as it should, but even when I set idle at 1k, it still shuts off on me with the CLUTCH IN and RPMs over 2k. It doesnt when I dont have the clutch in though when I am at an idle. Its ONLY when I push the clutch IN.

But seriously, could a vacuum leak really cause the car to die ONLY when I press in the clutch over 2000 RPMs? Doesnt make sense.. But then again I dont know.

 

[snowborder714]

As for bumping my thread, no disrespect, but I think your just looking for your proven status. If you cant give any help, please, dont post. Thanks.

Sorry, but there is no bumping - period.


If your timing is off, why aren't you fixing that to eliminate that as a potential cause?

You might have to take off the throttle body to get the BISS out, if you can't come up with a creative way to remove it. It will typically not thread out and you'll have to remove it some other way.

Do a boost leak test anyway to again, eliminate that as a potential cause. Just looking at vacuum lines doesn't do jack. They can be brand new lines and still have leaks where they connect.

Have you checked all your fluid levels and electrical connections all over the engine bay?

Have you checked to make sure all the transmission bolts are torqued properly?

Have you checked the master/slave for leaking or any other problems?

Have you checked the crank for play?

You might need to drop the transmission and check the clutch, flywheel, and throw out bearing.

 

[RT-AWD]

How fast does the car die? if it dies like your just shut it off with the key that is not an ISC problem, if it drops to about 500ish for a split second acts like its being choked out of air and life then dies. that could be the ISC or a vac/boost leak. i had a similar type issue turned out there was a small tear in my intake pipe go a new one and it stopped

 

[97DSM_Spyder]

Car dies rather quickly. Can be moving at any speed as long as the RPMs are over 2k, it will die. No sputter, no hesitation.. RPMs just straight drop and it dies. As for fixing the timing, my "mechanic" said he cant do anything without DSMlink. I dont know how true this is but that is what he says.

As for checking the crank for play, I have not even bother as its a brand new Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch (Less than 150 mi on it) and a brand spanking new motor (less than 120 mi) with a thrust bearing mod. Overbore built my engine. Im sure most of you in the DSM community have heard of Mark and his motors. Lifetime warranty on crankwalk and such. Only thing I can say after looking at it today is that I know I need new master/slave cylinders. I have the "ghost clutch". Can anyone else think of anything?

 

[snowborder714]

Are all of your timing marks lined up at TDC?

Or is he talking about base timing, which is controlled by the CAS? If so, 2g's have a non-adjustable CAS which which should automatically get your base timing correct.

So you might want some clarification on this. DSMlink isn't needed for base timing, as the CAS should set itself. If the timing marks are off, then you have a bigger problem, but again, DSMlink can't help.

 

[RT-AWD]

I think his clutch engaging is interupting something. either that or you have a massive boost/vac leak.
dsmlink is not needed to find a problem. did you get the car tuned at all after this work you got done?
What is ghost clutch? and how do you know you need slave/master cylinders?

 

[GS-T_Newboost]

Im going to try to hit you up this weekend if it ever stops raining. The burnign rubber could be the t-belt hitting the cover or and accessory belt. Is it still a 7 bolt?

 

[97DSM_Spyder]

Sorry guys, havent been ignoring you all, but had my wedding this weekend. Anyways, the "ghost clutch" when when the seal to the master cylinder gets to much dirt or a chunk gets work out or something to that nature and you can "lightly" press on the clutch with your hand and it falls to the floor. But on a regular shift or engagement it works just fine. Its not crankwalk I know that for a fact. That was actually the whole reason I just had my motor built. Trashed the last one. Anyways, I took my car back to Southern Car Customs (Newboost you know who I am talking about) because I feel that I had no choice. I couldnt figure out the problem and no one could help me out. Soo I took it to them and they want to start off my replacing the master cylinder and the "proportioning valve?" and we go from there. My slave cylinder was replaced not even 200 mi ago so I am not even gonna bother with that. If you wanna give me a call (Newboost) to give me some insight or anything just give me a call anytime. Thanks for the feedback everyone and until I get it fixed I am welcome to any and all suggestions.

803-445-6426 (Nick)

Yes, it is a 7 Bolt (Newboost). And I looked at it today before I dropped it off with SCC and it looks like the P/S belt is rubbing and so I think thats where I am getting that smell from. I am just gonna let it rub and wear away. If it goes, it goes. Just P/S, easy fix.

 

[snowborder714]

Why are they replacing the proportioning valve? That's for the brake system.

I'd say the master cylinder is a good start.

 

[97DSM_Spyder]

Well, I didnt mention it before but I am losing clutch pressure as I am braking and coming to a stop, so that may be why he is suggesting it?? I dont know. I dont exactly see why he would need to replace the proportioning valve but he is the mechanic right? So I take his word on it and run with it. But I am gonna work on it one thing at a time starting with that god forsaken master cylinder and hope that will fix it. Will keep updated.