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1G Coolant in my throttle bodie?

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mitsuowner1991

10+ Year Contributor
304
7
Sep 29, 2009
West Keansburg, New_Jersey
So when you would give my car gas the throttle would stick open. So I just took throttle body off and it is gummed up with coolant. So the flapper piece open or closed unless under a lot of pressure. How did coolant get into the throttle body?! Thank you
 
Im just nervouse i won't be able to get the green spring back on or something. I just have to move the car about a mile thats why im hopping it frees up a little more to work right.. then when i get it to my place, ill send it to this guy that rebuilds throttle bodies or if someone on here from JERSEY could help me.
If you just want to move the car to get back home and some body will rebuild it later then you don't need to change anything. May cause very high or unstable idle but you can drive.
As for the spring in case if you decide to rebuild it by yourself, just take some pic and draw a line on the spring with a marker, so you won't miss the position when assembling.

whats your opinion on blocking the FIAV PORT.. I noticed when i took it apart , there was a rectangle piece of metal blocking the port.
Your throttle body has the FIAV bypassed. I personally don't recommend you to block off or bypass the FIAV.
 
My problem is it sticks open. So id i tried to drive home it would just rev out.. im thinkin i might have to take the shaft apart. Tried letting it soak in everything but it dosnt snap back like it should..
Can you upload a pic of the throttle body?
You mean the shaft doesn't turn at all? If the shaft is stuck OPEN because of rust or so, then spray PB Blaster or WD40, use a table vise or something to hold the throttle body and try to turn the 10mm nut on the TPS side "clockwise" with a wrench or ratchet. This will force the shaft/plate to turn to CLOSE. If you want to force to OPEN then vice versa, turn the 12mm nut on the spring side "clockwise".
 
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Years ago when I was driving the car coolant kept going missing and I couldn't figure out where it was going. So the car sat for a couple years and over the last couple weeks I've been working on it to get it going again. When I got in and press the gas pedal it went down but then was loose. I then checked out the throttle body to find out there was coolant in it and from sitting for so many years it gummed up inside where the plate is. I can open it with my hand and it sticks all the way open. So if it was on the car closed and I hit the gas pedal it would stay and not close. It's sticking.
 
Can you upload a pic of the throttle body?
You mean the shaft doesn't turn at all? If the shaft is stuck OPEN because of rust or so, then spray PB Blaster or WD40, use a table vise or something to hold the throttle body and try to turn the 12mm nut on the TPS side "clockwise" with a wrench or ratchet. This will force the shaft/plate to turn to CLOSE. If you want to force to OPEN then vice versa, turn the 12mm nut on the spring side "clockwise".



You know how the throttle body snaps back closed once you let off the gas. Well mine stays open. There's all Gunk and stuff inside where the shaft is. I've soaked it in WD40, PB blast, gasoline, and I talked to a local mechanic and he told me that you soak it in transmission fluid. It's now I've been sitting in transmission fluid for 2 days and it's still sticks open. It doesn't snap back close
 
I got it. I think in this case you have to clean up the shaft. You don't think you are capable to remove the two screws on the plate?
Anyways you have to remove the shaft to clean up or just swap with another throttle body.
 
I can probably get the two screws out. But taking the spring off and then all the seals and stuff that are inside where the shaft is I just don't think I can do it. So I'm just going to pray and leave with soaking until I get the gaskets and the FIA V gasket in the mail. The car only has to go about a mile and then I'll send this throttle body out to have rebuilt. And I can't find anyone selling a 91 through 94 throttle body.
 
I have an extra throttle body the only problem is it's for a 90. None of the plugs match up and I've been reading that you need a different fuel rail and stuff for that one if I were to swap. I'd rather just have mine rebuild or buy another one that works
 
You need some wiring work to put 90 throttle body correctly.
But what you want now is to bring back the car home, correct? If so and if your place is close, just install the 90 throttle body without connecting any sensors, coolant lines. The car runs actually, probably like crap but can run. Install the 90 throttle body and maybe connect the TPS from your car separately and you don't need to connect the ISC/coolant lines to drive. After get home just rebuild it properly.
 
thats a good idea but what do i do then if i dont connect the collant lines.. coolant is gonna go all over..
You can loop it or just connect the lines to the throttle body, so you don't drop any coolant. I meant that you don't need those coolant lines to drive.
 
You can loop it or just connect the lines to the throttle body, so you don't drop any coolant. I meant that you don't need those coolant lines to drive.
I will just hook the coolant lines up. It's not that hard. But I think after three days of soaking the throttle body and trans fluid the throttle plate and shaft is starting to snap back like it's supposed to
 
Ok soo a big THANKS to you guys and STM for the gasket kit i just recieved!! SUPER STOKED!! O0O and my throttle bodie is snapping back like normal after 3 days of sitting in the sun and ATF fluid that a mechanic i go to told me to try. And shitt it helppedd!!

now my big question is to leave the FIAV port closed? Is that what makes the car idle higher during first starts on colder days? I dont really under why you would wanna block it if MITSUBISHI put it there for a reason..
 

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Could it be that i removed the home made FIAV piece? It was 80* degrees when i started it and she was idleing at like 1800 on the dash. But i didnt let her run long cause im waiting on the o ring gasket for the isc valve i think it is called and i dont have it filled with coolant.. gonna go mess with it friday..
 
Make sure your throttle cable isn't too tight causing it to stay a little open.

As for the AFC, check your wiring at the throttle body and at the ECU or wherever its hooked up

I did just puta new throttle cable on.. amd i thoughr the old one was way to loose..so i made the new one a little tighter.. so im gonna check it tommro. Rain today.. thanks
 
Why does my super afc say my throttle is 100% when i dont have foot on gas?? Thanks for any help..
Check if the throttle plate is surely fully closed. and if it's closed, try below to see if it would fix the issue.
Loosen the two 8mm bolts on the TPS -> Key ON -> Go "etc" on SAFC -> Sensor chk -> now you see some voltage numbers on the screen, slide the TPS and make "Thrt" 0.63v., and then tighten the two bolts. Check the throttle % if it shows correctly.
 
Check if the throttle plate is surely fully closed. and if it's closed, try below to see if it would fix the issue.
Loosen the two 8mm bolts on the TPS -> Key ON -> Go "etc" on SAFC -> Sensor chk -> now you see some voltage numbers on the screen, slide the TPS and make "Thrt" 0.63v., and then tighten the two bolts. Check the throttle % if it shows correctly.


I will check that too.. im gonna try the cable firsr cause i did make it tighter then the original cause the orignial i thought was to loose and wasnt immediate responce when i hit the pedal. I will let use know.. thanks.. do you know any other way my settings should be.. cause the car hasnt ran in like 8 years after i had it built. AND was a simple fix of the TB gasket..
 
Settings for the super afc.. like do you know what i should have some of the settings on with the air/fuel.
Hard to tell some specific numbers because this depends on your setup. If your car is stock then just make everything 0% at low/high Thrtl. If you don't have a wideband, get one and play with the safc after you rebuild the throttle body and repair everything.
 
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