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clutch not engaging/disengaging properly

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Orangedsm95

10+ Year Contributor
70
0
Feb 9, 2010
detroit-area, Michigan
I was having issues with the clutch fork hitting the side of the transmission case and it was causing disengaging issues. I pulled the trans out and the clutch fork and pivot ball were badly worn and the flywheel and pressure plate had some pretty good size heat cracks. I replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, tob, clutch fork and pivot ball. Adjusted the clutch master rod as per Jacks vfaq video. Then looked for leaks at the slave and master cylinder didn't find any (both are little over a year old). I inspected the rubber part of the line to make sure it wasn't bulging and clutch fork is also angled towards the driver side of the car. Took the car for a ride i noticed right away that the pedal was softer then before. Im not sure of the specs of the pp that was in the car originally so idk if its just because the new pp has a lighter clamp load. I also noticed that it seemed notchy when i shifted and that the clutch doesn't start to engage until the clutch pedal is almost all the way depressed. I checked the pedal height and free play, pedal height was at 7 inches and the free play was about 3/4 to 1 inch. According to the haynes manual its supposed to be 7 to 7 1/8 inch pedal height and a 1/4 to 1/2 inch freeplay. The pedal stop is backed out all the way already and no matter what i do i cant get less then 3/4 inch freeplay and still be able to push the slave rod in. If the rain lets up im gonna go out there today and bleed the system but other then that im stumped.. Any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks, Jr.
 
I adjusted the master rod as per jacks trans tech article, no extended slave rod, and the fork is angled to the driver side. So its gotta be the step height
 
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Installing steel braided line is not going to help you in this situation. If the step height is wrong then there nothing you can do to fix it other then pulling the tranny and having the flywheel stepped property.
 
No leaks in the line?

Nope no leaks anywhere that i can see..

What flywheel are you using?
It could be that the ebay pp you bought its not setup to work with the flywheel your using.

Its a f1 racing clutch and a f1 racing flywheel. I bought it as a kit.
This is the link to the same kit i bought.
F1 Stage 3 Clutch Kit Flywheel 5 92 99 Eclipse Talon Laser FWD 7 Bolt 2 0L Turbo | eBay

Another question i have is about how far off the floor should the clutch engage?
 
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Nope no leaks anywhere that i can see..



Its a f1 racing clutch and a f1 racing flywheel. I bought it as a kit.
This is the link to the same kit i bought.
F1 Stage 3 Clutch Kit Flywheel 5 92 99 Eclipse Talon Laser FWD 7 Bolt 2 0L Turbo | eBay

Another question i have is about how far off the floor should the clutch engage?


On my last set up with a new Fidanza fw and new 2600 pp with street disk I engauged about an inch off the floor. It was touchy thats for sure but as it wore in It was much more liveable. Currently im using a used ACT street lite I never checked the step height on, with a new 4 puck sprung and a used 2600 pp and my engaugement is slightly less then half way the floor. Probably from not stepping the flywheel but a 4 puck is only good for about 1-1/2 years daily driving so Im sure it will be out next year sometime. (on a side note this is the smoothest higher rpm shifting clutch I have drove. I shift at 7500rpm like butter everytime and its pretty streetable imo.) I have gone through 5-6 different clutch set ups and this was the last thing I wanted to try before twin disk and Im happy with it.
 
On my last set up with a new Fidanza fw and new 2600 pp with street disk I engauged about an inch off the floor. It was touchy thats for sure but as it wore in It was much more liveable. Currently im using a used ACT street lite I never checked the step height on, with a new 4 puck sprung and a used 2600 pp and my engaugement is slightly less then half way the floor. Probably from not stepping the flywheel but a 4 puck is only good for about 1-1/2 years daily driving so Im sure it will be out next year sometime. (on a side note this is the smoothest higher rpm shifting clutch I have drove. I shift at 7500rpm like butter everytime and its pretty streetable imo.) I have gone through 5-6 different clutch set ups and this was the last thing I wanted to try before twin disk and Im happy with it.

Cause mine seems to engage about 3 or 4 inches or so off the floor but i have about a inch of freeplay in the pedal too. So you figure i only have about 2 inches or so of travel before theres no resistance. The clutch seems to chatter and slip a little as it starts to engage. So im not sure if thats because of the clutch engaging so far up, which is more than likey because the step height is off.

Well its looking like im goona have to pull the trans again..
 
When you take it in to get inspected. Make sure that they verify it in front of you. It must have a step height of .612 and perfectly flat across the entire fiction surface. There should be NO taper at all. Meaning that the .612 step height should be held at the outer edge of the friction surface ALL THE WAY to the inner edge of the friction surface. NO deviation. A lot of shops will just resurface and not check the flatness or step, that's why you much verify it with your own two eyes.
 
When you take it in to get inspected. Make sure that they verify it in front of you. It must have a step height of .612 and perfectly flat across the entire fiction surface. There should be NO taper at all. Meaning that the .612 step height should be held at the outer edge of the friction surface ALL THE WAY to the inner edge of the friction surface. NO deviation. A lot of shops will just resurface and not check the flatness or step, that's why you much verify it with your own two eyes.

Ok will do. Thanks alot for your help man its greatly appreciated..
 
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