Orangedsm95
10+ Year Contributor
- 70
- 0
- Feb 9, 2010
-
detroit-area,
Michigan
I was having issues with the clutch fork hitting the side of the transmission case and it was causing disengaging issues. I pulled the trans out and the clutch fork and pivot ball were badly worn and the flywheel and pressure plate had some pretty good size heat cracks. I replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, tob, clutch fork and pivot ball. Adjusted the clutch master rod as per Jacks vfaq video. Then looked for leaks at the slave and master cylinder didn't find any (both are little over a year old). I inspected the rubber part of the line to make sure it wasn't bulging and clutch fork is also angled towards the driver side of the car. Took the car for a ride i noticed right away that the pedal was softer then before. Im not sure of the specs of the pp that was in the car originally so idk if its just because the new pp has a lighter clamp load. I also noticed that it seemed notchy when i shifted and that the clutch doesn't start to engage until the clutch pedal is almost all the way depressed. I checked the pedal height and free play, pedal height was at 7 inches and the free play was about 3/4 to 1 inch. According to the haynes manual its supposed to be 7 to 7 1/8 inch pedal height and a 1/4 to 1/2 inch freeplay. The pedal stop is backed out all the way already and no matter what i do i cant get less then 3/4 inch freeplay and still be able to push the slave rod in. If the rain lets up im gonna go out there today and bleed the system but other then that im stumped.. Any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thanks, Jr.