1G 90 talon clutch not engaging?

[Justin Lauscher]

Hey guys, made a account just so I could ask this. I've had a 90 talon TSI AWD for about 4 years, it has just been sitting. It has all the goodies, 16g, injectors, exhaust. But anyways I recently bought a fidanza 8lb aluminum flywheel and I had a clutch master xtreme 6 puck springless clutch laying around from when I got it so I decided to put it in. I bought the car with a fried trans so I went and bought a 93 parts car for the tranny. I've had the car apart 2 times trying to figure this problem out, its almost like the clutch is locked. It shifts fine while not running and while it's running you can't get it into any gear. When you start it in gear regardless if the clutch is pushed in or not it will jump forward. I'm wondering if I made a mistake with the new trans needing something different? I did swap trans cases also. The clutch also came with a new TOB. The slave also works.

 

[Justin Lauscher]

Those are some nice looking clutches, but man they are expensive. i guess you do get what you pay for!

 

[twicks69]

If you want cheaper price with decent quality, check out Competition Clutch 5048-2600 Stage #3 full ceramic clutches. I stock those even if they aren't on my website as they are lower in price than the SBC and better quality history than some of the other brands. The torque capacity is rated around that of a SBC SS-Series pressure plate with full ceramic disk, but with stiffer pedal pressure like that of an ACT 2600.

Pretty much if it comes to clutches, I have direct experience in nearly every decent brand (no ebay junk) for singles, twins and triples used on our cars (DSM and Evo). I have been a distributor of SBC for 7 years and have been a user for 11 years.

 

[Justin Lauscher]

If you want cheaper price with decent quality, check out Competition Clutch 5048-2600 Stage #3 full ceramic clutches. I stock those even if they aren't on my website as they are lower in price than the SBC and better quality history than some of the other brands. The torque capacity is rated around that of a SBC SS-Series pressure plate with full ceramic disk, but with stiffer pedal pressure like that of an ACT 2600.

Pretty much if it comes to clutches, I have direct experience in nearly every decent brand (no ebay junk) for singles, twins and triples used on our cars (DSM and Evo). I have been a distributor of SBC for 7 years and have been a user for 11 years.

You know what I just checked your website and I found the SBC tz series. I'm thinking I want that one. Seems like a good price. What flywheel step is needed for that clutch? How much throw is needed to engage and disengage? I just want to make sure everything I have now is fine. Hopefully tomorrow I plan to disassemble my car again and take my flywheel off, I want to measure the steps with a depth mic to make sure my fidanza flywheel is for sure good.

 

[TSi-Rocket]

I totally agree with Maes, get a southbend . The southbends puts way way less stress on the hydraulics and are not temperamental like the act's. Ive had an act2600 in one car for 13yrs and I messed with it off and on for 3 years. I put a southbend in my other car (ss-tz) and I will never go back to an act. Although your not suppose to install a southbend clutch on an aluminum flywheel.

Southbend install: With good fork/ball
1. Surface flywheel with proper step
2. Install
3. Break in

ACT 2600 install
1-3 Same as above

...And then the increased pedal pressure causes problems....

4. Add a Stainless braided hydraulic hose
5. Hydraulics fail from increased pressure(install new oem slave/master, aftermarket will not work search it)
6. Walk with a limp
7. Next the pedal assembly itself will exponentially wear
8. Pressure also stresses the crank thrust bearings

Once everything is in order the act/other stiff clutch will work great and its not a bad idea to do what is needed. But if the hydraulics and pedal assembly are good, its a lot easier to buy a southbend, install it and drive the car.

 

[Justin Lauscher]

You guys sold me on the south bend once I get my car apart, I'm gonna buy one from twicks. I'm really looking forward to it for sure. I have the braided line and a brand new slave, I have two great looking clutch forks and if I need to I'll just shim the pivot ball last resort. Thanks for your help guys.

 

[Maes]

You guys sold me on the south bend once I get my car apart, I'm gonna buy one from twicks. I'm really looking forward to it for sure. I have the braided line and a brand new slave, I have two great looking clutch forks and if I need to I'll just shim the pivot ball last resort. Thanks for your help guys.

Justin you are making a great decision. Just wait until you get it installed and broken in. You'll be glad you got the southbend clutch.

 

[Justin Lauscher]

Here's an update, I've been pretty busy lately but I got some time to do some work. I measured the flywheels again, the fidanza flywheel is exactly .610 all the way around. I have gotten exact measurements this time because I took it off the car. Lol. I bought a south bend ss tz from twicks and installed it, and everything was the same. I even shimmed the pivot ball and I made sure that the trans didn't come apart from the block when the clutch was pressed. I'm pretty puzzled here. Halp

 

[pauleyman]

Have you checked you pedal assembly?

 

[Justin Lauscher]

Have you checked you pedal assembly?

Yes I have, there is some slack but as far as I know there was never a real strong clutch in the car and it worked find with the old clutch

 

[pauleyman]

Doesnt matter. Non stock clutch requires more travel. It will reveal a problem. If youre out of thread adjustment check the lever arm that connects to the clutch pedal shaft. Its the lever that the clevis connects to for the master cylinder pushrod. If it moves the pedal assembly needs tobe rebuilt or replaced.

 

[TSi-Rocket]

I know for a fact that aftermarket master cylinders can cause problems. The piston seal is more towards the end of the piston which in turn doesn't move as much hydraulic oil which ill equate to less stroke of the slave cylinder. OEM on top dorman rebuild on bottom.

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[dc320]

I had a similar issue, turned out to be that the clevis spring and lever were bent. Did a whole new pedal assembly and it fixed it.

 

[Justin Lauscher]

Doesnt matter. Non stock clutch requires more travel. It will reveal a problem. If youre out of thread adjustment check the lever arm that connects to the clutch pedal shaft. Its the lever that the clevis connects to for the master cylinder pushrod. If it moves the pedal assembly needs tobe rebuilt or replaced.

Sounds good. I'm switching dashes with my parts car anyway so I'll switch out the pedal at the same time.

 

[Justin Lauscher]

Hey guys its been awhile since I've posted an update, I have figured out the problem. After welding the pedal and changing the linkage and the whole works, I still had the issue of not enough travel. I had a piece of long threaded rod laying around and I decided to slap it on the slave cylinder for a rod. It is about an inch longer than the previous one and it about bottomed out the slave cylinder against the arm. It ended up putting perfect pressure against the clutch and now it works great. I'll post some pics of the car tomorrow, I've done a whole interior swap with my 92 talon, its really turning out nice. I just have a few hiccups with the cluster now, none of the gauges are working but that will be figured out tomorrow. I will also be mounting my racequip harnesses tomorrow too. It's finally coming together! Thanks guys!

 

[Justin Lauscher]

Going back to this, when I welded my pedal assembly I tightened the nut on it and then welded it, now the weld broke under the nut and it managed to loosen up. I had to go through the whole process to change the assbly again. I made sure it was done right this time. No more nut and hella beads! Travel is still not as far as I would want it, must be my aftermarket master. Car runs, drives, definitely loving the southbend!