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Clutch Help

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stephenson

Probationary Member
29
0
Mar 6, 2011
mission, BC_Canada
Ok so i change my clutch the other day. put everything back together and bleed it.
now i cant get it into gear unless i force it. And if i have it in first gear and i let out the clutch the wheels still spins (cars on jacks)

also replaced the clutch slave and master

can someone give me some ideas on whats going on?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Try adjusting your shifter cables inside the car the manual helped me with that,best 20 bucks spent to get started with my car.
 
i got the manual and i have tried adjusting the rod from the master.

Also my car has cruise control dont know if it makes a diffrence
 
i got the manual and i have tried adjusting the rod from the master.

Also my car has cruise control dont know if it makes a diffrence

Cruise control has absolutely nothing to do with the clutch / transmission, it controls the throttle plate. That being said, have you tried adjusting the actual shifting cable bracket that you bolt onto the transmission? The way the bracket is setup you can move it forward or backwards, sliding on two bolts, this little play could be enough to correct things.

Also, did you replace the clutch fork and/or pivot ball?

EDIT: Now that I think about it, if you're engaging the clutch and the wheels are still spinning there's an issue with either your clutch fork, pivot ball, master rod, or slave cylinder, I really don't think the shifter cables are the issue here.
 
It has a new slave and new clutch master. So should i drop the tranny again?
 
hmm i guess ill bedropping the tranny again :(

if its the pivot how do i fix it?
 
i would bleed the system again. When i was new to the DSM world i took my FWD to a shop to have a clutch put in. same thing. They told me thats how it was with the new clutch. Ever since that exact point I have done all my own work on all my vehicles. I would bleed the system again. You may also need an extended slave rod. Some vehicles need a washer behind the pivot ball to move the fork closer. Not sure which clutch you had in versus what you just put in. Make sure the clutch fork isn't bent either, i've bent one of them before also.
 
The bigger slave cylinder rod is a band-aid, not a fix.:( You need to properly adjust your pedal height and pedal freeplay and I bet that will fix your problem.
 
It sounds like your clutch pedal isn't adjusted properly. it's a pain in the neck but you have to keep playing with it until you get it. If the wheels are spinning while the clutch is engaged then it's not disengaging fully, which means it's an adjustment issue. good luck
 
how many threads should it be past?
and where could i get an extended clutch slave?
 
worn clutch fork and pivot ball, dead 1g clutch assembly. Dont do the extended rod, its like taking morphine for a gunshot wound, yhea it hurts less, doesn't mean you don't have a gaping hole in your chest.
 
Is your transmission fulcrum pivot ball shimmed ? (the ball that the clutch fork pivots on), and when you did put your new clutch did you /A ( get a new flywheel ) B ( get your flywheel machined to the proper step height ) or C ( just put the new clutch in and didn't do anything with the flywheel ), just for us to eliminate the clutch/flywheel probability that it might just be so.
 
I don't believe it is shimmed and i got a new clutch disk and pressure plate, got the flywheel tuned from the same guy that my buddy got his done from and i made sure it was clean. And the rod that goes to the master cylinder has 6 or 7 threads showing.

How could i figure out if i have a dead pedal assembly. ?
 
Adjusting the master cylinder rod at the pedal is probably what you need. After replacing my clutch, it took me a bit to get it adjusted just right.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
 
I have tried that lots. but it does'nt feel like there much preusure at the pedal so im going to remove the slave and rebled it than bleed the system again.
 
This is a VERY common problem and there are several things that can cause it. Do some searching as there are dozens of threads addressing this very issue. Is the new clutch an aftermarket one with a heavier pressure plate? Did you check the clutch fork and pivot ball to see that they are not worn/broken/bent while doing the install? Was the flywheel step height measured to be sure it's in the proper range? Are you sure you're adjusting the master cylinder rod the correct direction (if you thread it into the pedal clevis instead of out, the problem will get worse). What process did you use to bleed the hydraulic lines? ...(there's several wrong ways to do it).

Here's some helpful links that will get you on the right path:

First, WATCH THIS VIDEO:

YouTube - Proper Clutch Adjustment

Next, read up on these FAQs regarding clutch issues, they answer the "how to" on all the answers everyone is giving you such as checking for a worn clutch pedal:
RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info
How to Bleed a Hydraulic Clutch - Team Rip Engineering
Clutch Pedeal Adjustment - Team Rip Engineering

If you watch that video and carefully read all the above articles you should have no more questions about pedal disengagement. Hope this helps!

BTW, if you find out your clutch pedal is worn (which I'm pretty sure it will be since 90% of all 1g DSMs suffer from this by now) then I HIGHLY recommend sending it to Shep Trans for a built/welded pedal assembly with brass bushings. 5th product up from the bottom on this page:
DSM AWD Driveline Products
 
Mine is very light pressure too. But after adjusting, it shifts fine.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
 
I would start with the clutch master cylinder. Putting a new one in is the quickest thing to do when you measure the pin before you put the cylinder back in the car. After that a new slave cylinder. Takes a while to adjust and you need two people to do it but I had to do it on mine after I replaced the clutch.
 
If you have had your stock flywheel turned or cut, you have to shim the pivot ball the same amount of material that was taken off. 1 washer is usually good to make it work again.
 
What you're describing is the exact same problem i'm having. My system is bled properly, the slave cylinder is giving enough throw and pushing the clutch fork all the way. I plan on pulling my transmission next weekend but if your hydrolic system is bled properly then it can only be either A) flywheel wasn't stepped correctly, B) Clutch wasn't aligned properly, C) TOB isn't engaging correctly. When I do my clutch again i'll let you know what the problem was and like wise if you figure the problem out before me let me know what it was.
 
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