center diff removal

[craziloki]

So traveling 80 down the interstate my rear end decides to lock up, then release then lock up agian. After cooling down for a bit it will drive normally agian. This was about a month ago. Never diagnosed the issue it was intermittent. Now I have a horrible rumble between 3-5k rpm, any gear, under load (especially on incline) Seems to be on the driver side for the passenger mirror does not shake. The shaft doesn't have normal indications of being bad (clicking loudly/play) I have not had it on a lift to see if the wheel jumps. Any ideas? or anyone had similar problems? Anything will help....
P.S. Both tires have bald spots where it locked up..

 

[craziloki]

thanks guys for all the help.. cant seem to get the diff out though.. Might pull the tcase in the morning and see if that releases it... It just seems to be stuck on the shaft.. Anyways agian thanks..

 

[donniekak]

By the time you get it done, you could have the transmission out fixed on a table, and reinstalled. With 1,000,000x less pain in th axx. If it was easier to do a trans in the car, Jack's, Shep, and tre would do it that way.

 

[twicks69]

Page 22A-45 and on.... You have a W5M33 transmission.

Well, after you drained your transmission, and removed the 5th gear cover, you should have removed the viscous coupler snapring, viscous coupler and viscous coupler detent ball. Then, you should have placed the transmission in reverse to engage the 5th/reverse hub and slider to press outwards to give you clearance to remove the roll pin that retains the 5th/reverse shift fork. While left in reverse gear, you would then remove the two end shaft nuts (torqued to 106 ft/lb) using an impact and properly sized socket. After the end shaft nuts are removed, you can GENTLY pry off the 5th/reverse hub and slider by putting the pry bar between the 5th gear and the synchro (or between the case and the 5th gear -- but be careful not to damage the synchro or the gear teeth during prying). Once the hub and slider come off WITH THE SHIFT FORK ATTACHED, you can then simply remove the 5th gear by hand and remove the two halves of the needle bearings. The 5th intermediate gear can sometimes be simple to remove, or very difficult to remove. If it is easy, it simply means pulling it off by hand. If it is hard, then you will want to use a small gear splitter and a push-puller tool (OTC sells them).

After these parts are removed, then remove the three poppet plugs on the side of the intermediate gear case, along with the three springs and three detent balls using a pickup magnet. Then, remove the reverse switch and washer with a 22mm wrench (it might be a 24mm -- I cannot remember off the top of my head).

NOW, you are able to seperate the intermediate gear case section by simply gently prying it off the main gear cluster case. Then, the center differential will be exposed, along with the tops of the input and intermediate shafts and their gearsets.

Be careful not to damage the black plastic oiling guide that runs from the base of the main gear cluster case through the intermediate gear case section. If you knock it loose, you will need to do further teardown of the transmission and remove the main case by removing the case bolts, reverse detent bolt and the reverse idler gear bolt, then seperate the main case from the bell housing to expose the front differential, output shaft and output pinion shaft, input and intermediate shafts and gearsets, and the trash magnet and trash filter.

Good luck.


Otherwise, here is a photo-tutorial made by Dre years ago, that can be found in the drivetrain section on VFAQ.com

 

[MLutin]

to transfer power to the rear end. As far as going out I'm not to sure, but I'd imagine dirty fluid, or catching when you punched it.

 

[donniekak]

Page 22A-45 and on.... You have a W5M33 transmission.

Well, after you drained your transmission, and removed the 5th gear cover, you should have removed the viscous coupler snapring, viscous coupler and viscous coupler detent ball. Then, you should have placed the transmission in reverse to engage the 5th/reverse hub and slider to press outwards to give you clearance to remove the roll pin that retains the 5th/reverse shift fork. While left in reverse gear, you would then remove the two end shaft nuts (torqued to 106 ft/lb) using an impact and properly sized socket. After the end shaft nuts are removed, you can GENTLY pry off the 5th/reverse hub and slider by putting the pry bar between the 5th gear and the synchro (or between the case and the 5th gear -- but be careful not to damage the synchro or the gear teeth during prying). Once the hub and slider come off WITH THE SHIFT FORK ATTACHED, you can then simply remove the 5th gear by hand and remove the two halves of the needle bearings. The 5th intermediate gear can sometimes be simple to remove, or very difficult to remove. If it is easy, it simply means pulling it off by hand. If it is hard, then you will want to use a small gear splitter and a push-puller tool (OTC sells them).

After these parts are removed, then remove the three poppet plugs on the side of the intermediate gear case, along with the three springs and three detent balls using a pickup magnet. Then, remove the reverse switch and washer with a 22mm wrench (it might be a 24mm -- I cannot remember off the top of my head).

NOW, you are able to seperate the intermediate gear case section by simply gently prying it off the main gear cluster case. Then, the center differential will be exposed, along with the tops of the input and intermediate shafts and their gearsets.

Be careful not to damage the black plastic oiling guide that runs from the base of the main gear cluster case through the intermediate gear case section. If you knock it loose, you will need to do further teardown of the transmission and remove the main case by removing the case bolts, reverse detent bolt and the reverse idler gear bolt, then seperate the main case from the bell housing to expose the front differential, output shaft and output pinion shaft, input and intermediate shafts and gearsets, and the trash magnet and trash filter.

Good luck.


Otherwise, here is a photo-tutorial made by Dre years ago, that can be found in the drivetrain section on VFAQ.com

He seems to think what he is doing is easier with the trans in the car. I have done a ton of dsm transmissions by now, and i would still not want to mess with it in the car. Doing it for the first time must be really frustrating for him.

 

[twicks69]

Well, it can be done in the car, but it definitely is a 10 minute job with the by an experienced transmission builder with the right tools, and having it out of the car.

I have changed center diffs at the track before, it is not the easiest to do, but it can be done -- again...if you aren't at the track, pull the whole transmission.

 

[Talon2139]

Yes as this (the center diff) would be in the transmission itself.

 

[twicks69]

So here's the skinny: The motor, tcase and tranny(all JDM) were all replaced 1000 miles ago.. Everything was fine at first.. Now however, the rearend has locked up 3 times and there is TERRIBLE vibration throughout the car under load.. Enough to make a cd skip.. Just got car on jackstand to see if a wheel was jumping or something.. To my surprise the tcase is jumping horrendously, rest of driveline seems fine. This is a new transfer case so it isnt the actual tcase. All the motor mounts are new and good... What would cause the transfercase to jump enough to shake the drive shaft and make this vibration?

I just read this portion of the thread....Are you CERTAIN that the transmission has the proper final drive ratio, front diff ring gear ratio and transfer case with the proper ratio to be used with your stock rear end?

If not, you may likely have more problems even after inspecting/repairing your center diff if the ratios are different between the trans/transfer case and the rear end.

 

[markmakeitso]

Hi. Resurrecting an old thread here, sorry. I searched for quite awhile when I couldn't get my center differential to slip out of my AWD also. My problems were caused by a locked up transfer case destroying my already worn center differential gears. Sounds like craziloki might have had a similar event, and similar troubles removing his center diff.

I was also advised to remove the transmission from the vehicle for easier working. Was excellent advise, as my front output shaft (the hollowed shaft that meshes to front differential ring gear and whose splines lock into the bottom side of the center diff) had both twisted splines and deformed driver's side gear which prevented the center diff from slipping out according to the directions. Destructive disassembly with chisel, hammer, and deep bit grinder was necessary to even finish taking the transmission apart. Good times.