2G Car won't start

[Jsmo123]

Heres some things to take in mind -
1. Fuel pump is good.
2. I have tested 2 ecus (one known to be good).
3. Fuel pump circuit is solid. (I ground pin 8 on the 26 pin connector (fuelpump ground)) and the fuelpump will turn on
4. Turn the key without ground and the fuel pump does not kick on/prime.
5. Cranks fine
6. Replaced crank pos sensor.
7. Fuel rail has no fuel coming out.

Cant rewire because ecu has no control on fuelpump ground.
I hardwired fuelpump but car wouldnt stay on (got it to run good for a couple seconds)

I am at a loss for fixes. Its a parts cannon at this point and looking for better suggestions (relay clicks fine too, also has correct ohms)

 

[Jsmo123]

Perhaps the BISS screw on the throttle body is turned in all the way not allowing enough air? Maybe try screwing that BISS screw out a bit as an option. I know my car acted exactly like this when I had then screw in all the way.

Not the issue. Played with biss screw quite a bit.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Have you ever driven this car or is it a new project? I'd do a compression test next.

 

[Jsmo123]

Have you ever driven this car or is it a new project? I'd do a compression test next.

I've driven the car plenty, compression came back good, tested it weeks ago.

Any suggestions as to what I should do? I'm lost.

 

[Jsmo123]

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Here is a video.
Everything replaced -
CTS
CAS
CPS
ECU
TIMING BELT
RETIMED

What we have - fuel/compression/spark
It is struggling to start, almost gets there but not quite.

 

[chrysler kid]

Have you made sure you have the firing order correct, on a 96+ECU it should have 1-4, 3-2 on each coil. #4 being the farthest on the passengers side, #1 being closest to the timing belt.

Let's start over

What year is the car

What year is the motor

What year is the ECU

What modifications have been performed?

Has a boost leak test been preformed recently?

Are all fuel injectors plugged in securely?

Has the tps sensor been messed with recenlty? Is it still in it's correct orientation?

Are all ground cables on the starter/trans, intake manifold, battery to chassis, in good shape?

 

[Jsmo123]

Have you made sure you have the firing order correct, on a 96+ECU it should have 1-4, 3-2 on each coil. #4 being the farthest on the passengers side, #1 being closest to the timing belt.

Let's start over

What year is the car

What year is the motor

What year is the ECU

What modifications have been performed?

Has a boost leak test been preformed recently?

Are all fuel injectors plugged in securely?

Has the tps sensor been messed with recenlty? Is it still in it's correct orientation?

Are all ground cables on the starter/trans, intake manifold, battery to chassis, in good shape?

Okay.
1997 GST SPYDER
Assuming motor year is the same. (7bolt)
1997 ECU
MODS - exhaust. fmic. bov. wastegate (all namebrand)
Fmic leaked bad but fixed everything but a small leak at the biss screw and rear throttle body gasket.
All fuel injectors tested with screw driver on sensor method.
TPS sensor was played with. Drove and had issues. Realized it wasnt plugged in so we plugged it back in.
Not sure about intake manifold, but other grounds are solid.

 

[chrysler kid]

It sounds exactly like my car did when I had the firing order wrong.

 

[Jsmo123]

It sounds exactly like my car did when I had the firing order wrong.

We checked the firing order many many times.

Are you saying the firing order is 1432?

 

[chrysler kid]

Oops 4-1, 2-3

After that I would ohm out the ignition control module, definitely sounds spark or timing related to my ear

Have you verified the plugs to the map sensor are on tight, the sensor has not been damaged?

 

[chrysler kid]

It's hard to tell but the cam sensor is on the passengers side, correct?

When you replaced the cam sensor are you positive the sensor hasn't been flipped 180 out of rotation? There is an extreme difference. It would mess with spark timing for sure. I think the cam sensor gave me similar trouble when I replaced my valve stem seals. You could invert the plugs with some female connectors to see if the sensor is out of rotation

You could also try to use a timing light off of the #1 wire to verify spark signal is correct to timing on the front cover of the timing belt to the harmonic balancer

 

[Jsmo123]

It's hard to tell but the cam sensor is on the passengers side, correct?

When you replaced the cam sensor are you positive the sensor hasn't been flipped 180 out of rotation? There is an extreme difference. It would mess with spark timing for sure. I think the cam sensor gave me similar trouble when I replaced my valve stem seals. You could invert the plugs with some female connectors to see if the sensor is out of rotation

You could also try to use a timing light off of the #1 wire to verify spark signal is correct to timing on the front cover of the timing belt to the harmonic balancer

The only reason all that stuff has been replaced is because of these issues. Its my daily.

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Heres a picturee of the CAS

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[Jsmo123]

Oops 4-1, 2-3

After that I would ohm out the ignition control module, definitely sounds spark or timing related to my ear

Have you verified the plugs to the map sensor are on tight, the sensor has not been damaged?

The plug on the map sensor doesnt snap. Is loose. Is there a sufficient way to test the sensor? My manual says the car has to idle... cant quite do that.

 

[chrysler kid]

The only reason all that stuff has been replaced is because of these issues. Its my daily.

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Heres a picturee of the CAS

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How is it your daily if it doesn't start

When did the first major issue happen before you tore it down, or was this timing belt and water pump style maintenance. I'm assuming you did the timing belt and this all started after that maintenance event

You mentioned you replaced the cam angle sensor, so I wanted to verify you didn't invert the signal. It's easy to misalign when removed. Under the plate the cam sensor bolts into the end of the intake camshaft. If you didnt replace this sensor, it wouldnt have come out of alignment on its own. To verify it's installed correctly or not you can invert firing order to the 95 style routing

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Also double check the knock sensor is still plugged in, there is a connector for it on the funky bracket behind the cam sensor on the head

The ignition coil, ac compressor, and crank sensor, all have the same triangle shape connectors. The harness runs across the intake manifold from the battery to the ac compressor, the first triangle plug is the coil, the second is the crank sensor, the third is the AC compressor.

Other issues have arisen from a backwards installed crank trigger plate. To me it's hard to install it backwards, but if you're not paying attention it can happen and destroy the crank sensor quickly.

Finally for an extra set of eyes if you could post a picture of the engine bay from above we can try to see if any connectors or lines look out of place

Sorry to be long winded, I just wanted to offer some insight into issues we've seen before on a maintenance done no restart

 

[Jsmo123]

How is it your daily if it doesn't start

When did the first major issue happen before you tore it down, or was this timing belt and water pump style maintenance. I'm assuming you did the timing belt and this all started after that maintenance event

You mentioned you replaced the cam angle sensor, so I wanted to verify you didn't invert the signal. It's easy to misalign when removed. Under the plate the cam sensor bolts into the end of the intake camshaft. If you didnt replace this sensor, it wouldnt have come out of alignment on its own. To verify it's installed correctly or not you can invert firing order to the 95 style routing

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Also double check the knock sensor is still plugged in, there is a connector for it on the funky bracket behind the cam sensor on the head

The ignition coil, ac compressor, and crank sensor, all have the same triangle shape connectors. The harness runs across the intake manifold from the battery to the ac compressor, the first triangle plug is the coil, the second is the crank sensor, the third is the AC compressor.

Other issues have arisen from a backwards installed crank trigger plate. To me it's hard to install it backwards, but if you're not paying attention it can happen and destroy the crank sensor quickly.

Finally for an extra set of eyes if you could post a picture of the engine bay from above we can try to see if any connectors or lines look out of place

Sorry to be long winded, I just wanted to offer some insight into issues we've seen before on a maintenance done no restart

This car was my daily. Ran fine everyday, drove it one day and it sounded like a coupler fell off a mile down the round and hasnt started/ has been doing this since.

I have no knock sensor on that bracket. it is plugged into the back of the block though. We have also already tested the plugs in the other orientation and it just cranks (gives up pops and almost start)


Pics -

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Keep in mind. I am not the one who put this together. Bought it from a guy who put it together poorly and I have been fixing everything, but I need my daily back.

 

[AWD-Tony]

When you checked timing, did you check that all marks are lined up?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Sounds like timing is off to me

 

[Jsmo123]

Sounds like timing is off to me

Car is timed good. Marks line up.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Can you elaborate when you said it sounded like a coupler fell off? It died right after that noise, correct?

 

[Jsmo123]

Can you elaborate when you said it sounded like a coupler fell off? It died right after that noise, correct?

Yeah, it was like a burst if air and it quit. The timing was off 1 tooth; however, compression is good, we are pretty sure the engine is solid.
We got a new belt and retimed it.

 

[AWD-Tony]

#1 cylinder was at tdc when you checked the marks?

When did you notice timing was off, after it died or before, then you did tbelt?

 

[pauleyman]

I just reread this thread. Have you not done a boost leak test? If you had a pop and the car died that sounds like a physical failure. You blew a coupler or you bent a valve based on what I read. Do a leakdown test.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Would his compression be ok if he bent a valve?

 

[AWD-Tony]

Check your pvc hose? Just something to check. Idk if it’ll cause the no start issue

 

[AWD-Tony]

+1 on BLT

 

[AWD-Tony]

What is that??

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