The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Car wont start, single click then nothing. [IGNITION SWITCH]

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

StewCrew

10+ Year Contributor
37
0
Mar 22, 2011
Waukesha, Wisconsin
So after driving the laser for the day, I went to drive home and the car wouldnt start. When I try to start it, you can hear a click that sounds like its coming from the ECU and also hear a click that sounds like its coming from the starter. Here's where it gets tricky.

The starter is brand new. It was tested right in front of me in NAPA, so I know its not shot.

The battery is fine, holds 12volts solid while trying to start. The POS on the starter solenoid is also fine, this also holds charge, along with the ground on the starter bolt. However, the solenoid signal wire (black wire that clips onto the solenoid) receives no power at all. What could cause this to receive no power?

Also the car pop-starts just fine, but thats not really... ideal haha.

So yeah, any help or ideas is much appreciated!

Thanks, Jake.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
However, the solenoid signal wire (black wire that clips onto the solenoid) receives no power at all. What could cause this to receive no power?.

I think that you have found your problem. Check the wire for any breaks, check continuity.

Did you place the battery under a load test? just 12VDC doesnt mean anything, test it under load.
 
I think that you have found your problem. Check the wire for any breaks, check continuity.

Did you place the battery under a load test? just 12VDC doesnt mean anything, test it under load.

As far as how the wire looks, it looks good until it goes to the rest of the harness. I havent really peeled anything back yet, so Im not sure how it all looks under the covers. Ill check that next though.

And the battery is for sure good, I forgot to mention we took it out and used it in my buddies car. Sorry, I should have mentioned that.
 
question: when you tun the key nd the inital tick, and hold it is there a "hum" sound tht comes fom the front of the car?

because ( bad note) might be hitting the fly wheel and not catching teeth, becuse my tsi is currently haveing the sme issue, wil "pop-start" fine but is on a 50/50 chance that the ignition will catch and turn over/start
 
if you aren't getting power on that lead, I would check the key switch... It could be worn out and not making good contact.

^aggreed.. other than that, starter being new and all .. im out of ideas aside from generic alarm system junk
 
Try moving the ground cable connected to the battery terminal. My car did the same thing because it was loose and I'd just move it a bit and it'd turn right on. You might want to check for any corrosion?
 
Here is my thought. Standard or automatic???
If it's a stick, you might have a bad clutch switch
If it's auto, try moving the shifter into drive then back to park. No power at the solenoid wire with the key held in 'crank' would say something is interupting the signal to the sol. If it's a clutch you should be able to jumper the wires to bypass it and see if it runs.
If the battery cable was loose (which seems to happen ALOT) the dash lights would sorta shut down or dim almost completely when you try to crank it.

Edit, I just realized you said it pop starts so it's a clutch (decided to leave the post for future reference)
Check to see if the clutch switch came off, or just hold the key in crank and pump the clutch pedal ( I would recommend putting it in neutral just in case)
If that doesn't work and the switch is connected, go for the jumper technique.
I can get the wire colors when I get to the shop if needed.
 
Here is my thought. Standard or automatic???
If it's a stick, you might have a bad clutch switch

+1
Unplug the connector to test it. If the Clutch Safety Switch is bad or if the rubber piece on the clutch pedal is missing/damaged/not pressing the switch in, then the starter relay is activated blocking the signal from the ignition to the starter.
Disconnecting the switch bypasses this circuit so the relay isn't activated.
 
question: when you tun the key nd the inital tick, and hold it is there a "hum" sound tht comes fom the front of the car?

because ( bad note) might be hitting the fly wheel and not catching teeth, becuse my tsi is currently haveing the sme issue, wil "pop-start" fine but is on a 50/50 chance that the ignition will catch and turn over/start
From what I remember there is no "hum" from the front of the car. Just a click, then silence. Both the flywheel and starter are fine, its just that the solenoid isnt engaging the starter to move and then spin.

if you aren't getting power on that lead, I would check the key switch... It could be worn out and not making good contact.
Sorry, what do you mean by keyswitch?

Does it sound like the starter not working? Or is the click coming from some where closer to you
There is a click that sounds like its coming from the ECU along with a click coming from the starter.

Here is my thought. Standard or automatic???
If it's a stick, you might have a bad clutch switch
If it's auto, try moving the shifter into drive then back to park. No power at the solenoid wire with the key held in 'crank' would say something is interupting the signal to the sol. If it's a clutch you should be able to jumper the wires to bypass it and see if it runs.
If the battery cable was loose (which seems to happen ALOT) the dash lights would sorta shut down or dim almost completely when you try to crank it.

Edit, I just realized you said it pop starts so it's a clutch (decided to leave the post for future reference)
Check to see if the clutch switch came off, or just hold the key in crank and pump the clutch pedal ( I would recommend putting it in neutral just in case)
If that doesn't work and the switch is connected, go for the jumper technique.
I can get the wire colors when I get to the shop if needed.
The neutral safety switch under the clutch pedal is removed so I dont need to have the clutch in to start. I have tried pushing the clutch in and starting it just in case though, and still all I get is a click.
 
i think what he ment by " key switch" is the ignition tumbler that is in the stearing columb
 
A friend of mine has a whole steering collumn assembly, and he said I can take whatever off of it. Im going to snag the ignition switch off of it, and swap it over to see if thats the problem.
 
I am having the same problem. I just hooked a momentary switch up in the car with a wire going from the battery to the switch, then to the terminal on the starter solenoid. I gave up trying to hunt down what wasnt working and just installed my little button, now I have kind of a push button start....except the key has to be turned in the on position LOL!
 
I am having the same problem. I just hooked a momentary switch up in the car with a wire going from the battery to the switch, then to the terminal on the starter solenoid. I gave up trying to hunt down what wasnt working and just installed my little button, now I have kind of a push button start....except the key has to be turned in the on position LOL!

ROFL Thats not a bad idea at all though hah. I'll save that as a last resort, but thats definitely clever :thumb:
 
well, first off, did you do any of the things we listed at the beginning of this thread? Check battery cables, wire connections etc? We have to know what you have done before we can tell you what to do next. I don't know if there is a write up on how to check the switch, but I would disconnect the wire that fires the solenoid for the starter, then put a test light in line with it while I had someone else turn the key. If the light comes on, the problem is in the starter. If it doesn't come on, it is prior to the starter.
 
I know this is an old ass thread, but I just solved this issue on my 2g and would like to share my solution.

The connector on the signal wire to the starter wire must have been bad. I clipped the stock female connector off and replaced it with a new female spade connector.

Now my starter turns over every single time without a problem. No more one click and having to continuously turn my key.
 
My buddy is having a similar issue, I will relay this solution to him in hopes of solving his headache. ^^^^ Thanks!
 
I'm having a similar issue. However when I turn the key to start the car all power goes away like the battery is disconnected. The previous owner replaced the starter and I have started and drove it maybe a dozen times but could they have improperly installed it and a connection worked it's way loose. By the way battery terminals are clean and I even tried a battery from my other car to eliminate that idea. So could it be the starter or a starter connection?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top