ECMlink Car won't idle in closed loop - dies when switching to closed loop

[CKOPOCT]

I have been trying to get my 97 GST Spyder to the point of driving it, but the car won't idle in closed loop. No boost leaks; no exhaust leaks.

The car is set up for speed density and I've set ECMLink V3 according to ECMTuning's guidance as well as the various threads on here. Car will start fine and, though it stumbles a bit, will idle in open loop. Smells like it's getting too much fuel as well. As the car warms up, once the coolant temp hits about 120-150, the car switches to closed loop and will die without me giving it throttle.

In looking at the log, it seems as though the O2 sensor reading is off. It measures .2v consistently - doesn't bounce or waver at all. When in CL and if I give it gas, it will periodically switch to .8v and then drop back down to .2v. Even after the car dies the front O2 sensor reading is .2v. I previously had a new Bosch narrow band sensor in the front position. Thinking the sensor was bad, I replaced it with an Innovate LC2 - properly calibrated and wired in (rear O2 eliminated). Still reads .2v. The Innovate WB gauge bounces all over the place, showing its getting varied voltage. Only thing I can think of is maybe the ECU capacitors are bad and the ECU needs to go back to ECMTuning for inspection/repair.

This is my first foray into tuning at all and have zero experience with ECMLink, so am looking to see if the logs will tell you anything different, like maybe there's something I'm overlooking or if an initial setting might need to change.

Basics about the car:
Engine internals (unknown - engine bought as a used long block from RIX Racing)
ECU is from ECMTuning - 95 ECU bought 4 years ago; not run until now.
Speed Density setup - purchased from ECMTuning (Innovate LC2, Omnipower 4-bar MAP, and GM IAT)
New FIC 850s
Walbro 255 rewired
95 CAS
stock intake, stock TB
Holset HX35 on FP manifold and 3" TB exhaust
Running 93 Octane

Appreciate the help. I've done all my experience and noodle will let me. Time to phone a friend.

 

[We're on Boost]

The Innovate WB gauge bounces all over the place, showing its getting varied voltage. Only thing I can think of is maybe the ECU capacitors are bad and the ECU needs to go back to ECMTuning for inspection/repair.

The Innovate gauge won't be getting its signal from the ECU. It is getting its signal from the sensor. So if the gauge acts weird it doesn't mean anything bad about the ECU.

The gauge body or some other body in the LC2 kit has an analog section that sends a 0 to 5 volts DC analog signal to the ECU. That goes one way only. To the ecu. The ECMLink ECU takes the 0 to 5 volts and uses it to calculate your AFRs, and when you have NB Sim turned on it makes the simulated signal out of it, which is that 0.2 or 0.8 volts that you see for Front O2.

In looking at the log, it seems as though the O2 sensor reading is off. It measures .2v consistently - doesn't bounce or waver at all. When in CL and if I give it gas, it will periodically switch to .8v and then drop back down to .2v. Even after the car dies the front O2 sensor reading is .2v. I previously had a new Bosch narrow band sensor in the front position. Thinking the sensor was bad, I replaced it with an Innovate LC2 - properly calibrated and wired in (rear O2 eliminated). Still reads .2v.

Well you have turned on narrow band simulation, so you will only see 0.2 and 0.8 for the FrontO2 voltages in the logs. That's how the simulation works, it just switches back and forth.

With a 2g, you have enough inputs to run both the wideband and the narrowband. It's really much better to do it that way. Run both. But you need a bung for the wideband sensor probably. Best place would be in the downpipe. Innovate usually doesn't like the sensor to be too close to the turbo, but too far away is not good either. Ahh, 3" turbo-back exhaust, you don't have a cat then, right? Good. Can't have a cat in front of the wideband sensor.

It's worth a try with just the wideband using narrowband simulation. But when you also have the narrowband, you can know that the wideband is correct if it tells you the AFR is in the high 14's when the narrowband is cycling. The narrowbands, if they aren't damaged, are really reliable. You have to be careful with any of those sensors. Can't get anti-seize on the tips for example. Only on the threads.

Anyway in your log, I can't display the wideband, or the Omni Power 4-bar, or the IAT. I think you need to turn the display on for them in Edit, Captured Values. Or you haven't completed the pin assignments. I don't even remember how to do the pin assignments anymore so you should pick the yellow ? that is near the bottom right corner of the ECU Inputs page and read that whole Help panel. If it's not clear enough in there, look for a wiki about pin assignments. That button that says "Save pin assignments" - maybe you just haven't saved your pin assignments. But read the Help panel.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

I agree with the above statement. Use stock narrowband sensor in front, and wideband behind that. Also in your ECU inputs, your omnipower 4bar MAP sensor should be in the MDP spot I believe, and need the IAT sensor set up in the intake temp spot as well. I would put stock O2 back in front O2 spot and wideband in rear O2 spot. This is just at first glance as I am at work .

 

[nice97civic]

Agree with both of these. In your pin assignments, move the MAP sensor onto the MDP line, not the Intake Temp line.
Also take a look at your TPS Volts and Throttle position. Position at idle is 2%, should be zero and your volts are .73 which is high. I believe .63v is the target for idle.

 

[CKOPOCT]

Thank you all for your inputs. I didn't realize simulating the NB resulted in .2 and .8 volts. Good to know there's probably nothing wrong with the O2 system. And thank you for spotting the mismapped MAP sensor! Could have sworn I'd set it correctly.

Not sure what to do about the tps reading 2%. I noticed that too and figured it should read 0% when closed. I cleaned the tb and adjusted the throttle cable as loose as it can go and the reading didn't change. It is the original tb and the car ran fine before I gutted it so I assumed the setting was spot on. I'll have to see if backing off the stop will change the reading.

Thank you guys for being awesome and for taking the time to read the log and giving me your feedback. I really appreciate it. Like I've said before, this is the best forum on the net.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Thank you all for your inputs. I didn't realize simulating the NB resulted in .2 and .8 volts. Good to know there's probably nothing wrong with the O2 system. And thank you for spotting the mismapped MAP sensor! Could have sworn I'd set it correctly.

Not sure what to do about the tps reading 2%. I noticed that too and figured it should read 0% when closed. I cleaned the tb and adjusted the throttle cable as loose as it can go and the reading didn't change. It is the original tb and the car ran fine before I gutted it so I assumed the setting was spot on. I'll have to see if backing off the stop will change the reading.

Thank you guys for being awesome and for taking the time to read the log and giving me your feedback. I really appreciate it. Like I've said before, this is the best forum on the net.

Might want to wait before touching the close stop, if you have not tried to adjust the sensor. Try the sensor first. The close stop is really a mechanical thing - you don't want the butterfly to wedge itself closed, becoming sticky to open by backing the stop too far.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Thank you all for your inputs. I didn't realize simulating the NB resulted in .2 and .8 volts. Good to know there's probably nothing wrong with the O2 system. And thank you for spotting the mismapped MAP sensor! Could have sworn I'd set it correctly.

Not sure what to do about the tps reading 2%. I noticed that too and figured it should read 0% when closed. I cleaned the tb and adjusted the throttle cable as loose as it can go and the reading didn't change. It is the original tb and the car ran fine before I gutted it so I assumed the setting was spot on. I'll have to see if backing off the stop will change the reading.

Thank you guys for being awesome and for taking the time to read the log and giving me your feedback. I really appreciate it. Like I've said before, this is the best forum on the net.

You need to adjust throttle position sensor on the front of the throttle body. It has two bolts, loosen the top one with car on engine off and connected to your laptop in ecmlink. Adjust tps to .63v and tighten back down. Dont be like me and hulk it down and break the bolt off . Start with that and get your sensors set up correctly and do another log.