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car wont go into boost

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thesnail

Probationary Member
29
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Mar 24, 2011
southampton, New Jersey
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Okay this is a problem I have been having, my car wont go into boost or when it does the car doesn't pull like its supposed to. it pulls while the car is in vacuum but wont get above 0 most of the time. after about 4,000 rpms the engine just revs up then the bov goes off. I would love a few opinions on what you guys think it is. (very few times the car will actually boost, its great when it does, but most of the time it doesnt) I feel like the car has no power to it. I just ordered a boost leak tester I will be checking for that as soon as it gets here. take a look at these videos. thanks for all of your help
 
Do you..have a boost gauge? I know you've already done a boost leak test so that can't be it.
 
YouTube - Boost problem??
YouTube - Boost problem
I posted the videos to you tube figured it would be easier to view then facebook, I just learned how to post things to you tube, I would appreciate the help, and today me and my friends were screwing around with the ecm trying to get a base tune cause my afr was idling at 9.5 and now the problem seems to have gotten a little better but I still cant push the pedal to the floor with out the engine just reving up, but I am actually able to go into boost now if I ease into it
 
Wait wait wait. So when you go WOT it just revs? Lke in neutral? If so you have clutch problems. Not engine.
 
If you have the stock intercooler that is a side mount it could have really bad leaks on it.. People have used jb weld to fix the leaks before and it was a good band-aid
 
When I got my car, it wasn't getting any boost either and I thought it was the vac lines as well. Turns out the rod connecting the wastegate actuator to the flapper on the turbo had rusted through and snapped. Simple JB weld and hose clamps fixed that, but definitely a temporary fix.
 
If you have the stock intercooler that is a side mount it could have really bad leaks on it.. People have used jb weld to fix the leaks before and it was a good band-aid

His profile says he has a FMIC.

OP, if your motor is just revving freely after 4k your clutch is slipping bad. What was it replaced with four months ago ?
 
Okay I did a boost leak test today, found a few major boost leaks, and a few minor ones, the intercooler pipes were leaking (fixed that) the line that went to the boost gauge to the valve cover (fixed that, there was a coolant line instead of a vacuum line)
so now I have 2 leaks I need some advise on, The TPS is leaking( pic attached), its a small leak but still a leak, I took it off and the o ring appears to be fine, I was told that it could be the the gaskets on the inside of the throttle body that seal the plate. so am I going to need a new Throttle body or can I take it off and get new gaskets. (If that is even the problem) Next is the other Leak, and I dont think this is normal but it could be the way its supposed to be. the fitting at the bottom of the boost controller has a hole in it and when I leak tested it was squirting out air very badly. It is a hole that is part of the fitting. so I am not sure if it is the way it is supposed to be (like the fitting came with the controller) or option b the kid that owned the car before me just did something stupid and put a wrong kind of fitting on there ( big possibility, the more I work on this car the more mistakes I am finding) and yes I kno I should get an EBC but I am low on money at the moment and a new fitting would not coast me more than 3$.( thats a great kind of fix) if any of you have an EBC wanting to sell I would deff be instrested.

Thank you guys once again

P.S. its defiantly the clutch slipping which I am really mad about because I just had it put in less then 1000 miles ago, actually paid someone to do it cause I didn't feel like doing it in my driveway in the snow, so now I am going to have to get a new clutch and put it in myself to ensure its done right, I got robbed :notgood:
 

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P.S. its defiantly the clutch slipping which I am really mad about because I just had it put in less then 1000 miles ago, actually paid someone to do it cause I didn't feel like doing it in my driveway in the snow, so now I am going to have to get a new clutch and put it in myself to ensure its done right, I got robbed :notgood:

Did you break the clutch in at all, or did you beat on it right away when you got it? If you dont break them in for 300-400 miles it will slip right away.
 
Did you break the clutch in at all, or did you beat on it right away when you got it? If you dont break them in for 300-400 miles it will slip right away.

I am not going to lie I did forget about the break in period, but I never really beat on my car like that anyway she is old and I am scared of breaking something at least until I rebuild the motor. but that is a big possibility I screwed it up and made it slip my self. the guy that put it in also didnt resurface the flywheel so it could be that as well. But what ever the problem is I need a new clutch either way :(
 
you don't need a new throttle body; there are gaskets available for them. Your O-rings that seal the ends of the throttle plate shaft could be worn out. Replacing those also gives you a nice chance to clean out the nasty guck inside the TB.

One more thing too... There is a test you can do with an ohm meter on the TPS to see if it is dead, but I highly doubt you need a new one of those.

P.s. I like seeing so many posts in one thread from awd car drivers!!! :D
 
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