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Car Overheated / Overheating / Overheats [MERGED]

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NTRCOOL

Probationary Member
24
0
Apr 10, 2002
OVERHEATING? The issues and their solutions have remained the same- either you don't have enough cool air reaching the rad, there's a cooling system obstruction which is preventing coolant from circulating, or your head gasket has failed and is allowing coolant to be consumed or pushed away from the engine.

Discuss all possible overheating problems and solutions here.



OK,
I just left my house to go over to my GF's,and happen to look down and see my needle right before the red mark. This just happened out of nowhere. I stop the car as quickly as i can, and pour in some coolant(Coolant a little low). Still same thing. Welp im in the middle of the road, and HAD to get it home. Im only 5 min from my house. I decided to try and make it(I really had no other choice). Welp I drive no faster than 20mph, and the temp needle is BARELY into the red the whole way.And occasionaly to the left of it. Am I ok?? Do ya think any damage was done?? And im thinking either thermostat, or water pump. For each of those, whats a round about $$ figure to get replaced?? Any info you have would be GREATLY appreciated!
 
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You nailed it w/ post #4.

One last thing is that you might want to add some water wetter or similar to your coolant system to prevent rusting or seals dry rotting from the previous tap water.

In my turbo prelude i used watter wetter and water only. Is it safe to mix water wetter with the 50/50 mix?
Also, thanks for the confirmation of explaining why this happened. I hate not knowing "why" something was fixed.
 
directly from the bottle:

WaterWetter® is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30ºF. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze. Or it can be added to new or used antifreeze to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems. Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems. Compatible with all antifreezes, including the latest long-life variations.
 
sweet man. thanks. I guess a quick google would have answered it. the only problem is sometimes what manufactures say, is not always the truth. Thanks again man!


here is a thermal properties chart:

Thermal Properties of Cooling System Materials
Material Density Thermal Thermal Heat Heat of
Conductivity Convection Capacity Vaporization
g/cm3 Watt/m•°C Watt/m2•°C cal/g•°C cal/g
Water 1.000 0.60 1829 1.000 539
Glycol 1.114 0.25 ----- 0.573 226
50/50 1.059 0.41 897 0.836 374
Aluminum 2.70 155 0.225
Cast Iron 7.25 58 0.119
Copper 8.93 384 0.093
Brass 8.40 113 0.091
Ceramics 1-10
Air .0013 .026 0.240
 
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You nailed it w/ post #4.

When using regular/tap water in the coolant system it will boil, and you will overheat by; losing fluid in the system by evaporation, increasing pressure w hot air and bubbles. Bubbles are not necessarily boiling bubbles but when you have boiled the water in there it creates gaps in the coolant system and its constantly pushing the bubbles/gaps out. but recreating it as it cycles.

In any occasion you need to add water you must use distilled water. as it doesn't boil because it is pure. although it will explode if messed with the wrong ways. You should never need anything else other than a premixed 50/50 coolant bottles. One last thing is that you might want to add some water wetter or similar to your coolant system to prevent rusting or seals dry rotting from the previous tap water.

+1! Pure tap(undistilled water) will boil and it will cause all sorts of issues!
 
+1! Pure tap(undistilled water) will boil and it will cause all sorts of issues!

+2 that straight tap water is no good for any car. I guess this is back to cooling 101, but It sure made me research alot. The only cars I see that run straight distilled water are track cars because the have to by regulations. To them it doesnt matter because the car is running such a short period time, they will never see an overheating issue unless they have mechanical failure.


Thanks for all the help everyobne, and I hope this thread helps others in the future.
 
I have the sam problem... had it since East Coast MOD 2012, I had to wait to replace thermostat, it red lined so many times, It started leaking oil, replaced thermostat and valve cover gasket, continued to over heat and leak oil, now it is always redlined and is poring oil out... Idk what to do.... its below the valve cover but there is no coolant in oil, HELP PLASE
 
Clogged radiator? Checked head gasket? If it's getting to the redline many times, I'm sure the head gasket is probably gone by now. Have a block test done on it.
 
Iv got a 96 spyder GSX and iv been having over heating problems sence the day i got it running. so far iv replaced the head gasket 3 times and replaced the head twice. After putting the second head on im now getting oil in my coolant but im not getting coolant in my oil. please im at a loss here iv read so many over heating forums my eyes are bleeding iv done every thing and the problems just getting worse.

On a side note i noticed when it heats up to normal temp at least a gallon of coolant spews out the over flow hose on to the ground i add coolant and it does the same what is causing this?? :notgood:
 
Oil in the coolent, but no coolant in the oil.

3 HG and 2 heads and still the same problem.

Were any of the heads surfaced? if yes, how were they done?

What HG are you running?

How did you clean the block deck?

Now oil pressure is at a min 30 + PSI, and coolant is a max of 13 psi. So you have high pressure oil forcing its way into low pressure coolant.

Check the oil cooler adapter that the oil filter screws to, if overtightened, then the adapter can crush and cause this issue..

For you pushing a gallon of coolant, I would say the head is warped and allowing compression into the water jacket.

Or the block deck surface is warped, or the head was not surfaced properly.
 
ok changed radiator cap and the coolant stopped comming out the over flow so that issue is fixed.
Now as far as oil in the coolant..... both heads were cleaned really well and checked for flatness. i do not believe neither head was warped but i only started getting oil in the coolant after my second head. I also changed the oil filter and tightened in loosly if that makes sence.
could you illaborate on the whole oil cooler thing for me i read about this and i dont fully understand.

Note: im running a cometic head gasket and the block was serficed by a shop when over hauled. it was cleened with steel wool and acitone
 
When I turn my DSM on it overheats very quickly - within under a minute the temp gauge reads 250 degrees - it also cools down very quickly. What i'd like to know is what the differences between symptoms of head-gasket vs water pump faliure. There does not appear to be oil in the coolant. Also, when starting, the vehicle experiences intermittent misfire. I believe this to be the injectors, although I guess a HG can contribute towards this also. Thanks for your help!
 
Just cause you don't have coolant in the oil doesn't mean you didn't blow your head gasket and aren't leaking cylinder pressure into a coolant passage.
 
There's no way it hits 250F in a minute or less. I couldn't even get mine to hit 200 in 5 minutes with zero coolant in the engine.
 
There's no way it hits 250F in a minute or less. I couldn't even get mine to hit 200 in 5 minutes with zero coolant in the engine.

Exactly. Something is not right here. Your other thread you stated that you have the fans set to run all the time and would further delay the warm up process even more.
 
Is your water pump all old and nasty looking? That's probrably why it overheats so fast. Coolant sensor might be busted as well if it reads hot so quickly.

Mine used to do that. Changed out the pump, no more problems. Are you driving around with low coolant?
 
I recently got my 2g back after getting the flywheel, axles and module replaced but now a day later after that my car started overheating and smoking from behind the intake manifold and there is some coolant by the back of the engine too, can someone tell me what happened?
 
Could possibly be a head gasket issue. You will have to check to see where it is coming from to really get much help.

If its by the head/block surface, check compression. Also, check coolant for oil, and your oil for coolant.

You won't want to drive it much with an issue like that.

Could be fluid spilled during the work you just had done.
 
420a head gaskets (except '99s) usually give out around 100,000 miles. How many do you have? And usually the leaks tends to be from the drivers side, rear of the engine block. Check for oil leaking down the engine. Check to see if you have a loss of coolant due to it leaking in the crankcase.

If it is the head gasket, this is a severe problem which will need your money and/or time soon.
 
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