The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

2G Car is overheating

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.


Proven Member
Aug 3, 2020
Perris, California
As the title goes the car is overheating. I flushed the radiator twice, installed. 160 degree thermostat. Noticed the car fans dont turn on when the engine gets hot. Checked my ECMLINK v3 and my log show the coolant temp sensor working or getting hotter etc.. I havent had a chance to test with a meter yet. I have Verified the fans work via ECMLINK "Misc" tab and turning fans on that way manually. The ECU is from Kenny Kline and has been refurbished w/new caps from ECM Tuning. Reading many many MANY posts of this issue, and came across a post where someone said to pull there coolant temp sensor plug off the sensor and the fans should kick on automatically, but mine did not. It just makes some electrical sound when I plug it in and remove it. Not sure how to test relays on these cars. Sucks because my meter is at a friend's house. So I looks like I might have to buy another one. Anyone have any ideas? I appreciate any feedback given. Thanks
Purchased a cheap multimeter. 2 wire CTS voltage should read 5v on the harness plug aide with the key in the ON position but not started (I read on dsmtuners when testing it) But when I went to check my voltage I'm getting 4.70v DC. Ohm on the CTS (coolant temp sensor) itself "cold" reads 0.7-0.9
Last edited:
If you can turn the fans on with Link then the relays are working, it sounds like you have the wrong setting for when to turn the fans on in Link.
Settings? Where is there settings? Doesnt the ECU tells when the fans turn on? I dont see anything in ECMLINK that says turn on at such and such temp
@luv2rallye .. Man, I am so happy you commented. I have learned alot from you from past posts and comments concerning this info. Such as screen shots from you on this issue (see pics). I wasnt sure if you where still around as the comments I had seen from you where from 2010+.

I have a 6 bolt swap w/1g thermostat housing. I recently installed a q60 degree 1g thermostat in a 2g. Is this a issue?

As I'm not sure if there is a difference in size on the thermostat from a 1g to 2g? Can a 2g thermostat fit in a 1g housing? (Probably not but I had to ask the stupid question)

Do I purchase a 1g CTS or a 2g CTS when you have a 1g thermostat housing 6 bolt swap? Is there a difference?

I apologize for anyone reading this. I have read every 6 bolt swap but most dont do a full 6 bolt swap (block, head, intake manifold, 1g thermostat housing, etc). And no one tells you of the differences, except maybe Magnus but even then they dont go into much detail on it


  • 20201011_140219.jpg
    119.2 KB · Views: 26
  • 20201011_140231.jpg
    215.6 KB · Views: 29
  • 20201011_140149.jpg
    325.2 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
Thank you @luv2rallye for the comment. Also, isnt the fans supposed to kick on when you remove the CTS plug? Mine didnt and made some weird electrical sound. Someone also said that if you test the connector (@harness) you should have 5v. Mine reads 4.7v is that a issue?

Anyone know the correct part # for a new OEM CTS on a 2g unless it matters I have a 6 bolt swap?
Last edited:
The CTS is bad. Your 0.7-0.9k ohm reading tells the ECU the engine temp is 104*F. It's probably always reading that no matter what the temp is. A cold reading (<68*F) should be higher than 2k ohms.
My factory service manual is buried during remodeling, those numbers did seem low come to think of it.
No, unplugging the CTS is infinite resistance so the ECU will then think the engine is extremely cold (<32*F). The CTS resistance gets less the hotter it is. To test if the ECU turns the fans on, you could unplug the CTS and short the harness side connector pins together while engine running. It may take a few seconds to react. And 4.7v is fine. Any CTS bought from an auto store for your engine (1g/2g) should work as long as the connector fits.
Ya, I just purchased the ECU, so I am really hoping it's not that. The ECU was purchased from ECMLINK refurbished with new caps and v3 chip. I will purchase another CTS and update this soon, as I hate reading so many posts with no solutions, or no fix. Thanks everyone
Ok so I installed a new coolant temp sensor 2 wire for my 2g Eclipse. But in the process I ended up putting in a full SD setup and the car wont stay idling long enough to see if it fixed the issue. Needless to say I will be back to give a "fix" to this issue since I read so many threads with no actual fixes or updates to tell us what the issue was. As of right now, there is no leaks.


  • 20201030_143842.jpg
    843.1 KB · Views: 36
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds